legacycentral bbs

Ok.....I got the final ok & price on everything from Richard Buckner. Trans is rebuilt. He replaced all the syncros and had to put in a used 5th gear set, but everything's pallated up and waiting for me to get the money to him.

So that brings me to my next few questions. I can use some of the parts off the beater wagon.....however there are some things I'm going to be replacing/upgrading. I would like some opinions/suggestions on parts, like clutch, flywheel, etc, and/or anything else you think I should replace.

Trans stuff
Clutch
Flywheel
pressure plate
TO & pilot bearing
Sti Trans mount
Sti/spt short throw shifter w/ adapter to make it work.


Rear stuff
Struts
Bearings & seals
adjustable lateral links
new style drop/end links
sti trailing link bushings

Front stuff
Sti bushing for front pivot point of A-arm
Sti bushing (comparable to anti-lift kit, but without the anti-lift)
Ball joints
bearings & seals
probably struts

I'm going to email KYB to see if the AGX's might have any ill effects by running them at the lowered ride height I'm at. If so.....I'll have to either just get the GR2's or look into other struts.

I like dave's route with his flywheel/clutch setup....and unless someone gives me reason to go/do elsewhere.....I'll probably stick with that.

Comments/suggestions?

Aye yi yi some of that stuff you list is pricey.

Exedy flywheel is the only way to go. I suppose you are going to have a primary focus on handling since you will still have an engine that sucks (air ). STi tranny mount, check. STi non anti-lift thingy, check (I was looking at those myself, you stay out of a lot potential trouble by not changing the mounting points for organized racing).

At least whiteline heavy duty endlinks front and back are recommend, if not a heavier duty unit like Perrin. Front steering rack bushings are done already, correct? The whiteline rear diff bushing is something that could easily be done while swapping parts. And I am assuming you have all of your top bracing done? Underbraces are a good idea, also. Functional rears are extremely hard to get, though.

I would also recommend looking into a matched set of spring/struts. Maybe a spt or old version STi combo. Some can be found used with low miles and will outperform a mix-match set.

I've got 2 grand in the swap so far.....I'm unfortunately estimating at least another grand for misc stuff.

Richard Buckner said I really shouldn't have to worry about the bearings unless I'm getting noise or what not. I may look at the rear ones that I'm taking off the wagon.....may do the trick dave's mechanic did to try and squeeze new grease in.

I've got WL HD links in the front.....will probably get a set for the rear. Front steering rack bushings are done. Ok, so WL does make a rear diff bushing. What about the diff lock kit....would you or anyone recommend this, on top of the bushing.....or do one of the other?

I've got front and rear top strut braces. Any particular underbracing. I know dave has that cusco piece. I really haven't heard much for the rear other then that little one....which IMO is a waste.

I'm not ditching my springs!!! I've got too much money and time into waiting for those springs, as well as the tapered rear sti mounts. They are staying! My car is very balanced and sticks like a mofo now. I'm not looking to re-invent/redesign the suspension, only to beef up the parts that are old/worn. I have been happy with the GR2's. I know there's probably some stiffer struts out there, but for the money they are very good. If the rear struts between AWD & FWD were the same I'd just leave everything alone, however they are not.....so I need to look into whether I should just replace the rears with another set of GR2's to match the front, or replace everything with AGX's.....if that's even worth the tweakability......

AGX's are great because you can set the damping at what you want, more than likely you aren't going to jump under there and change them around for one thing or the other. But if you like the car balance sligtly underdamped/overdamped, etc... you choose.

I personally have a SPEC clutch and love it. I have the segmented kevlar disc and it rides like a normal clutch (except that it grips like a mofo when you want it to... and if you start to burn it, the kevlar gets stickier the hotter it gets). The price was great and the customer service phenomenal (sp?). One other board member has my exact setup and likes it too. But you would be fine with a regular less inexpensive organic one since you don't have 180+ lb/ft tearing it up at low rpm.

The Cusco front underbar is the best bet. Getting the real cusco or STi underbar that ties the rear together is about a snowball's chance in... well you get the idea.

The diff lock kit is recommended for track days or other limited time use situations IIRC. The bushing kit is what you want.

And oh yeah, if it's not broke, don't fix it. Unless of course you replace it with something better or it's something simple to do now and a complete pain to change when installed.

I recommend the diff lock kit. I got annoyed with the rear diff thumping whenver i accelerated quickly (With sti tranny mounts, new wrx engien mounts, and brand new rear diff mount)

I'm never seen the whiteline rear diff mount. Do you have a part# for it?

MK

http://www.kastleskorner.com/store/prod ... cts_id=782

this site gives part # KSB751

but i don't know if that is site specific or whiteline part #

go ahead and google it. also check nasioc and/or scooby mods for the write up on installation. i've never had this problem since my synchros are so slow

Done a little research tonight.

From what I found, the axles between the LSD & non-LSD rear diff should be the same.

Slave cylinder is different for the 91 MY turbo legacy for some reason.

All the hyd clutch setups have this stupid little damper thing. The 91 has even more piping. I'm probably going to just bypass the damper, and run a single SS line from the clutch MC to the slave cylinder.

Also....what is this fuel separator thing on the AWD models. It looks like it's in the back.....but I've never seen it......

I'll be doin some more hw when I get the time.

Those bushings are the diff lock kit, if the pic is what he's selling.

I don't know what it is either josh. It is a plastic container and some tubing. I just left it out and closed the lines on the tank that would go to it.

My fuel economy is still better than when i was fwd 4eat n/a.

MK

Cool beans, is the fuel separater the thing that's on the driver side of the gas tank that sends gas to the pump side?

Just to be straight you've got a turbo style clutch fork right? The non-turbo isnt the same.

Do you have the correct ecu/sensors for the tranny?

You might need to change your speedo cable btw, The parts guy told me the tips are different from at to man, and i noticed that they are different from my at to mtks at. But honestly I dont know.

Just to let you know in advance, RENT A TRANNY JACK!!! I cant stress that enough. It's a hard enough task as it is and I doubt I'd do this without one.

are you installing the hill holder system?

mTk wrote:Those bushings are the diff lock kit, if the pic is what he's selling.

I don't know what it is either josh. It is a plastic container and some tubing. I just left it out and closed the lines on the tank that would go to it.

My fuel economy is still better than when i was fwd 4eat n/a.

MK

If those bushings are the diff lock kit....what's the thing with the stupid little bolt.....is that the subframe lock?

THAWA wrote:Cool beans, is the fuel separater the thing that's on the driver side of the gas tank that sends gas to the pump side?

I'm not sure. I thought there was a jet assist pump in the tank that sent gas over to the other side. I'm sure I'll be able to tell a little more when I take it out of the wagon and can look at it.

THAWA wrote:Just to be straight you've got a turbo style clutch fork right? The non-turbo isnt the same.

Yeah I know they're different, I should have one.....assuming jason put it in with the trans I bought from him.

THAWA wrote:Do you have the correct ecu/sensors for the tranny?

I'm goin to try my ecu, but more then likely I'm going to try and get a hold of a 92 ECU. Other sensors I should have since I have a complete MT car sitting in my driveway.

THAWA wrote:You might need to change your speedo cable btw, The parts guy told me the tips are different from at to man, and i noticed that they are different from my at to mtks at. But honestly I dont know.

I did see the speedo cable thing last night in my research. I'll see what the difference is when I yank out the tranny from the wagon. The turbo models had a different cable too.....but I'm not sure if that was due to length or other issues.

THAWA wrote:Just to let you know in advance, RENT A TRANNY JACK!!! I cant stress that enough. It's a hard enough task as it is and I doubt I'd do this without one.

Tranny jack huh......how come? I'd have to rent it more then twice.....once to take the old one out of the donor....once again to take the 4eat out, and anothe time to put the 5mt in. Unless I put the 5mt in & take out the 4eat during the same weekend.

THAWA wrote:are you installing the hill holder system?

No hill holder on the turbo models.

THAWA wrote:Just to be straight you've got a turbo style clutch fork right? The non-turbo isnt the same.

Even if you didn't get one Josh, they shouldn't be expensive. My NA fork, bearing, and clips came out to less that $70 I think.

THAWA wrote:Do you have the correct ecu/sensors for the tranny?

I'm goin to try my ecu, but more then likely I'm going to try and get a hold of a 92 ECU. Other sensors I should have since I have a complete MT car sitting in my driveway.

THAWA wrote:Just to let you know in advance, RENT A TRANNY JACK!!! I cant stress that enough. It's a hard enough task as it is and I doubt I'd do this without one.

Tranny jack? Why? You can do the job just fine with a good ole floor jack. That's the way I did it.

You can do the job easier and quicker w/ a tranny jack, and they aren't expensive at all either.

MK

Legacy777 wrote:

THAWA wrote:Do you have the correct ecu/sensors for the tranny?

I'm goin to try my ecu, but more then likely I'm going to try and get a hold of a 92 ECU. Other sensors I should have since I have a complete MT car sitting in my driveway.

heh, I forgot you had that car

Legacy777 wrote:

THAWA wrote:Just to let you know in advance, RENT A TRANNY JACK!!! I cant stress that enough. It's a hard enough task as it is and I doubt I'd do this without one.

Tranny jack huh......how come? I'd have to rent it more then twice.....once to take the old one out of the donor....once again to take the 4eat out, and anothe time to put the 5mt in. Unless I put the 5mt in & take out the 4eat during the same weekend.

I wouldn't do the job without one, it has 4 casters, so it's much easier to move around, plus it has a large base and chains to hold it on. I wouldn't feel safe without those chains as more than once did the tranny almost fall off. I guess you could tie it down to a regular jack. like mtk said it's pretty cheap, there's a place around here that rents em for i think $17 for 4 hrs.

I'll look into the tranny jack when time comes a little closer.

Actually, it looks the cusco rear piece is now here in America. Check it out, they say it's in stock.

http://www.napsusa.com/napsusa/660-476-A.html

This is one of the only authorized Cusco dealers in the states, by the way. I think Dave should try it out on his car since he has all the other bracing.

I assume that's just a dummy pic.

out of curiousity josh, does your car have the hole in the firewall for the clutch master cyl?

where does that cusco bar go.....?

honestly.....Not sure if I have the hole in the firewall......