legacycentral bbs

I'm not sure if this is where the question should be posted but here goes:

I've got a '93 n/a, auto, AWD sedan. I'm seriously considering installing a turbo engine. My question is: what parts, modifications, etc. am I going to need to do?

I know I'll need a turbo trans, turbo hood, ecu.

Will I need all new sensors? How much re-wiring will be needed time-wise (never done that before)? Any schematics, manuals available for re-wiring?

If I can get hold of a late model turbo engine (2.5L) would I need to do things differently compared to installing a 2.2 turbo?

Thanks in advance for all your help!

You can use your tranny.

Beyond that, I think you should talk to Hardy. He was/is going the turbo route and probably has the whole parts list.

I thought the n/a tranny had 3 bearings whereas the turbo tranny had 5 bearing to handle the extra hp/torque. But even if that were true, could I still use the n/a tranny?

It's something like that, bearing's or clutch packs or aomething that the turbo tranny has more of. With the auto you could probably get away with it with most power for a longer time than a 5mt. but for long time reliability I'd swap in the turbo tranny. Putting in an ej257 or something would require lots more wiring than the ej22g or early ej20g. mTk or osmeone can comfirm it but it's only like 3-4 wires you need to change/add/swap with that engine swap. If you're going full on turbo engine swap you need all exhaust members, turbo, intake, iac valve, pcv tubes, boost control, ecu, injectors, fuel pump, charcol canister(unless you decide you dont want to change it and just t it into one of the other lines, I forget which vrg was telling me which), crossmember, swaybar, radiator, waterpump, dv and I think that's all. Of course if you get a complete car or even just the longblock you should get most of that stuff with it. There's been a couple threads about it, but I'm too tired to search for ya tonight, maybe tomorrow if you dont do it yourself before me

rad won't fit a n/a car I tried, the lower rad support is different, use the original rad and make the cap zero pressure and slightly enlarge the overflow spout. make sure you get an ecu from an automatic so your tranny gets the right info or you'll blow it in no time.

For details on the wiring, try searching for a thread started by mTk called "problems wiring the swap" or something along those lines. Basically, if you use all your stock wiring, you just have to add a few wires and switch one pair of wires.

All 91-94 North American turbo ECUs are the same, so it doesn't matter what year, transmission, or body style it comes from.

You don't absolutely need a turbo hood if you don't want one.

The turbo evaporative emissions control system has an auxiliary purge path which the non-turbo doesn't, but you could just run without that path if it's legal. You need a check valve to ensure the canister doesn't get pressurized on boost.

Swapping an entire EJ22T motor in (long block, intake manifold, intake tubing, exhaust) would be easier than almost any other engine swap upgrade.

The crossmember does need to be turbo-specific, and so does the front swaybar, I think.

an auto ecu will work for a manual car but not vice versa, a 5spd ecu will not give the needed information to the trans control unit, eg. to tell the tranny that your under boost and that it needs to bump up the pressure.

1) All 91-94 North American BC/BF turbo ECUs are interchangeable.

2) The only North American BC/BF ECUs that transmit any information to the TCU are those on 90-92 non-turbos. Even on those models, the only information transmitted from the ECU to the TCU is the barometric pressure signal.

3) Turbo TCUs are different from non-turbo TCUs. It's reasonable to think that they'd be calibrated differently for the vastly different engine characters.

my mistake I know I had that problem when I swapped a ver7 into an auto wrx, but the part# still differ from manu to auto? oh well if they work then who cares right?

From what I have seen the turbo AT has thicker steels with the same clutches. I guess this allows more stress on the clutch packs. I bet the valve body is calibrated different as well. The high clutch/reverse clutch is a different, not sure why. The US turbo legacy clutch material is thinner then most 4EAT but the diameter is larger so I don't know which is better. I believe the torque converter on the NA stalls higher than the turbo model and the bolt circle might be smaller??