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Okay, I previously asked about pads and these were recommended to me by a few people but someone mentioned something about shims. Do these pads come with shims or do I need to purchase the shims separately? Also, does my car have one pot calipers? One more thing, should I try to do my own brakes even though I've never done a brake job before or should I leave it to the pros since it's such a critical item?

Do it yourself. It's SUPER easy. Do you have a Haynes manual?

-Brian

Yes, I do have a Haynes manual but do I need to bleed the system since it's only been done once before because of a damaged brake line.

anyone?

If you don't undo any brake lines, then you don't have to bleed the fluid.

But if your fluid hasn't been serviced in a long time, I'd change the fluid while doing the brake job. Brake fluid is one of those things that's often neglected but very important. You can build a vacuum bleeder to make it an easy one-man job: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=16150

Thanks Vikash, I'm debating this right now. The brakes were bled about two years ago so I'm not sure if it needs it again. I'll take a look at my Haynes manual a little later to read about the task first. I hope it's as easy as everyone says it is. Vikash, can you answer my questions about the pads in my first post at the top?

If it's been two years, I'd change the fluid, unless the fluid in your master cylinder looks almost as clear as brand new fluid. I've been burned (figuratively) by neglected brake fluid in the past. It's not worth risking it, since it's so easy to change.

Sorry, I figured your Haynes manual might have answered the questions about the pads... Anyhow, most aftermarket or third-party brake pads don't come with shims; you can usually just reuse the ones that are currently on your car.

I don't know if your car has 1-pot or 2-pot front calipers. It should be easy enough to tell. Just pull off the wheel and look at the caliper. The body of the caliper is rounded around each piston.

If you're careful and cautious, there's no reason you can't do the job yourself. Just treat everything with respect. Make sure you don't end up with any grease or brake fluid on any of the friction surfaces, make sure all threaded fasteners are clean and in good condition, replace gaskets if you undo the brake lines... stuff like that.

If all you're doing is just replacing the pads, you don't really have to undo anything except the lower caliper-to-bracket bolt. Then the caliper just swings up and you can swap pads. Of course, it's better to take some time to inspect all the other parts, and maybe service the rotors.

I'll probably just go ahead and replace the fluid sice its been a while. IT'll need to be done sooner or later anyway. THanks again Vikash.

On my bobcats I used the shim that was used on the OEM pad. Works fine. Yes bleed your lines, get some better (DOT 3/4) fluid, but not spend tons of $$ on it. And last and most important...BED YOUR PADS IN!! If I remember correctly.. warm pad by drving normally. When pads are at temp, brake HARD from 60 to 20. Don't stop. Let cool a few seconds then do that 3 more times. Drive home let sit over night or till pads are totally cool.

Thanks for the info. Dan. When I swap em out I'll give this a try.