legacycentral bbs

Not that anyone else would want to do this (unless maybe they were building a high output, high rpm monster with the closed deck block in which case you wouldn't do the peripheries as cheap as me or with the intention of easy turbo coversion).

The turbo water pump has an extra nipple on the top. Stick a small length of hose on it and cap it off with some hardware store misc.

The pass rear head has fittings for coolant and oil for the turbo. Plug the oil return tube and hose and the hose for the coolant. The oil send needs to be plugged up (which I still need to do). It requires a small metric bolt (I need to find out exactly what still.

Everything else so far seems fine. The turbo lower radiator hose fits without a problem so I don't know why they made two pumps.

Damn this is a filthy job! Make sure you keep your engine compartment clean. Its a good thing I don't have a girlfriend right now as I wouldn't be using my hands on her for a while. It's also 90 deg and humid here so I did this with no shirt on and now have to shower with lava soap.

Spraying all bolts with silcone spray periodically has made at least that aspect of the job surprisingly simple.

Oh, and when disconnecting everything, make sure you relieve the fuel pressure well and don't stand in front of the fuel line going in when you pull it. I was lucky.

Steve

edited to change plug info thanks to Vikash's astute observation

You used a 1/2" to 5/8" adaptor on two coolant lines from the passenger side head? I'm puzzled -- I thought the head only had one 12mm coolant line coming off for the turbo. The other side of the turbo goes to the nipple on the water pump that you capped off.

To plug the oil supply, I think you'd just need a short bolt of the same threading as the stock banjo bolt, and an annealed copper washer to put at its base. I believe you need a short M12x1.25mm bolt and a 12mm copper washer. You might actually just be able to cut one of the banjo bolts you have shorter. The bolt is the same as the ones used on the turbo's two coolant lines.

The turbo oil drain goes through a 15mm hose, right? So you could use that hose and plug it up with a 5/8" bolt and a hose clamp or something. It won't be pressurized, I don't think, since it leads to the big open area at the bottom of the head.

Ohhhh... 15mm is close to 5/8". And 12mm is close to 1/2". Did you splice together the coolant line and the oil line? Better fix that.

There are actually three types of water pumps. There's the NA one that has the hose coming off the bottom. Then there's the turbo-without-oil-cooler one that has the hose coming off the front and has the extra 12mm nipple on the driver side for the turbo's coolant. Then there's the turbo-with-oil-cooler one that also has a 12mm nipple on the passenger side for the oil cooler.

But what's really odd to me is that the thermostat housings are different between turbo and non-turbo pumps. You no doubt can see close up what the difference is -- they just made them mirror images of each other!

It's great to see that you're getting close to getting your NA EJ22G complete.

Oh, I might be wrong about the pitch of the 12mm bolt... It might be 1.5mm or even 1.75mm... but you should be able to compare with the stock banjo bolt to make sure.

Whoa! I just checked and you're right (of course) - the metal pipe rising from the bottom of the head is oil (I checked for residue). It totally looked like it opened to the cooling passage. The bottom is oil drain then ... that makes sense. Hm, I thought I remembered cleaning white residue out of there. That's the problem with taking 6 months between things.

Steve

evolutionmovement wrote:It's also 90 deg and humid here so I did this with no shirt on and now have to shower with lava soap.

I had to do that after putting the transmission back in my Legacy...

So you're just going to be running a dog-slow EJ22G with no turbo, 8.5:1 CR, and probably about 70hp? Ehhh at least it will function until you get yourself going again.

My question is, can damage to the engine result from doing this? I know the bottom end is indestructible, but I am inclined to believe that the poor engine will be under a lot of stress lugging that big car around without any power...

No different than a tired engine or one with a blown turbo. Millions of underpowered cars with weaker engines have been built so I'm not worried. It won't be for long anyway now that I have a job fixing cars.

Steve

it wont be any different than the out of country ej18's in legacys. I really doubt he'd only produce 70 hp, even my last car had a 1.5 that made 76 or so. That's just plain low. At least 100-120.