legacycentral bbs

This is frustrating. Removing the engine is taking days longer than it should have and that I had hoped. The lift is hooked up, one last step to do: Remove the clutch fork from the release bearing.

I have the manual, and I have to remove the plug on the driver's side of the transmission. However, this plug WONT come out. Its frozen in there, its not going anywhere. We've broken 2 hex keys on sockets trying to take it out, and now using a beefy hex wrench, its starting to round the plug instead of coming out. Whats the deal?

In the manual, step one is to remove the "clutch return spring". I couldn't figure out what that was, I removed the plunger on the clutch cylinder that pushes the fork, though.


This is on a 5MT Legacy Turbo, 1991.

there will be a pivot point with a 10mm screw hole in it, simply fit a small screw and pull the shaft out

What? I don't think you realize what I'm talking about.. underneath this plug (10mm hex key plug) there's that shaft with 6mm screw hole. I can't get the plug covering it out.

Too bad you didn't have an impact wrench with a hex key. See if you can manage it before you round it out and use lots of PB Blaster. Can it be drilled out or screw-extractored out? The cable manuals don't have this (and the fork stays in) so I'm not familiar with its location.

Steve

I could put a socket on an impact ratchet, but it'll just break quicker than torquing by hand I'd think.

Due up tomorrow: Hit Sears, look at 1/2" drive 10mm hex sockets, and buy a MAP gas torch. :devil:

just curious....why do you need to remove the clutch fork? Won't the throwout bearing come off with the tranny?

No, it doesn't come out of the pressure plate. The bearing clips into the pressure plate, and the clutch fork is in the bearing in such a way that it won't come off the bearing either. You have to remove the clutch fork shaft behind the 10mm hex plug.

MK

gotcha!

I'll find this stuff out soon enough whenever I finally get all the damn clutch pieces....hahaha

Normally i'd say juse force it out... But the clip is what holda the bearing into the pressure plate while you press the slutch pedal, so it's STRONG.

MK

You should get an impact hex key. I've seen them. They're designed for the high torque and vibration.

Steve

I got it out! About 5 minutes heating it up with Mapp gas I gave it some torque and it broke loose! Engine is now sitting on a tire waiting for me to come back tomorrow and start the overhaul. Woohoo!

By the way, the clutch fork looks like it just slips over the clips on the bearing and the shaft holds it in place. It wasn't going anywhere with the shaft in place.

I have something interesting I'll be snapping pics of and posting tomorrow. Looks like at some point in my car's life, there was some sort of clutch fork problem. So instead of pulling the engine or moving the transmission, a lazy tech removed the pitch stop, removed the boot around the clutch fork and went at it with a metal nibbler! The bellhousing has a rectangular hole that branches off from the hole for the clutch fork and goes under the pitch stop mounting bracket, ending just past the other side of the bracket with some swiss cheese-type holes. It looks like the purpose was to remove the clutch fork without seperating engine from bellhousing. YAY for large gaping holes in your bellhousing!

It was covered (pretty poorly) with some tinfoilish looking patch that had adhesive on it. Anyone have any suggestions to mend it? Maybe I'll braze it or something.

Nice work. Torches are amazingly useful as wrenches.

Hmm, if it might be a useful access hole in the future maybe you should try brazing studs onto the bellhousing and bolting a cover plate on.

I was thinking brazing a metal cover on. I don't know the first thing about brazing, though. But I can figure it out.

I don't think I'll need it. I'm thinking this tranny is on its way out unless a new clutch/TOB and STi tranny mount fixes the transmission problems (Doesn't like to engage 1st, TONS of gear whine), no grinding though. Oh well.