legacycentral bbs

I hit jackpot this morning (Got a lot of Codes/ CEL) ... caused by my new alternator belt not tighted enought and skweelllling like crazy, Or maybe by the heavy rain we have since 2 days... not sure yet.

Winning lottery numbers : 22-23-24-35-44-45-49 (probably bad voltage from the alternator/wet connectors, so ecu thrown a lot of codes for all the sensors :\ )

The strange thing in all this is that, despite my custom EBC set to 10psi, i had a max boost at 5psi.... then i reset the CEL and was back to 10psi ... ??!!



My supposition :

Errror code #45 : Atmospheric pressure sensor / Faulty sensor

Action : Sets sensor to 760 mmHg

760mmHg = ??? Psi ??? ... if it's like 10-11psi, then Soleno will always be open (by my EBC, or the ecu if it were still connected), so i get 5psi on the wastegate ... sounds logical ?

Ok, i think my suppositions were right.

1 psi = 51.714 mmHg

760 / 51.714 = 14.69psi = 1bar (2 Asolute Bar) = 5Volts (max of the sensor)

so it would normally cause a Fuel-Cut.. ?? humm.. that's strange.

hey morgie check out the posting that boostjunkie started under strange or weird engine behavoir...seems a lot of people are dealing with wet and damp weather issues....i need a garage to keep mine from drowning in all this rain we are having.

I have a question (trying to keep threads to a minumim) about checking ecu codes. I am planning on resetting my ecu today and figured I would see if there was any codes stored first. I haven't ever checked for codes before and have had this car over 6 years. When I got under the dash the connectors were already disconnected Is this bad? I have never had a cel except when my alternator went bad- could this be why? Should I connect them and drive around a bit before resetting the ecu? Thanks

Morgie - I am puzzled by how the ECU could be limiting boost if you have an electronic boost controller. How is your EBC connected?

The "Action : Sets sensor to 760 mmHg" line just means that if the ECU decides it can't trust the pressure sensor, or if it gets no signal from the pressure sensor, it will just assume the pressure is 760mmHg absolute (not gauge pressure), and use that value in its fueling and timing calculations. It's all internal to the ECU.

Matt - Normally they are supposed to be disconnected. You connect them in order to enter read mode, test mode, or to clear the codes.

Really, because my haynes manual says to disconnect them to access self diagnosis system. It says that if they are connected then you cannot enter u-check mode.

U-check mode is the standard mode. When driving normally you want to be in U-check mode. In U-check mode the ECU uses its standard maps and learning and if it detects a fault it stores a code in memory and lights up the check engine light. You can then read these codes in "read memory" mode or clear them in "clear memory" mode.

My manual is wrong! I just tried the way you said vrg3 and it worked. I got 3 codes...23..24...49. All air flow related Could these be caused from my K&N air filter?

As much as I'd love to bash the Haynes manual, it's not wrong in this regard. The standard U-check mode is a diagnostic mode.

24 is the IAC valve, not the airflow sensor.

How long have you had the codes? Sometimes these codes'll come up when something goes temporarily weird, like if you stall the engine out launching on a hill or something. You might want to just clear the codes and see if they come back.

Unless your K&N filter is overoiled I don't think it could cause these codes, especially if your engine seems to run okay.

Thanks I'll try that....In terms of my manual is says to disconnect those connectors then turn the ignition key on but don't start engine. It then says to observe the check engine light...it will flash the trouble codes stored in the computer. It says if it just stays lit then no codes are stored and if it flickers then the connectors are connected and need disconnected to pull codes. section 6.7 - 6.11 .I don't know but it didn't say anything about connecting them. Now I know though so thank you vrg3

go to my site, I have better instructions for checking codes then the haynes manual. I need to re-write them.....but they're still better then the haynes.....IMO

In terms of my air control valve, I've noticed since I installed my turbo back that at about 5600 rpm I seem to lose power slightly. My car will be pulling hard to that point then it's still pulling but not as hard. It feels strange, like something opening and bleeding off power. Could the acv be causing that? And could that be why I got the code 24? I'm going to reset my ecu this evening so we'll see if it continues.

Ok I tried to reset my ecu about 5 different times using four different methods and all three codes are still present. Any ideas or suggestions?
The power loss didn't seem as noticeable after the first reset however.

If you correctly did the clear codes procedure and the codes didn't go away, that means the ECU still detects problems with those systems.

With respect to the MAF sensor, is it possible you actually have the wrong sensor on your car? Does it have a silver-colored aluminum body? If it has a black plastic body, it's the wrong sensor for the EJ22T.

I'm thinking maybe the codes didn't clear because I'm 99.9% sure I have the correct airflow sensor. When I take apart the air box and look in at it it's completly aluminum no black plastic.I tried fusible link method, fuse #16 method and battery dance. My car wasn't cold though and on Legacy 777s' web site Josh says it should be cold, so I'll try one more time today before I drive the car. We'll see

You don't need to take apart the airbox to see the difference... I just want to make sure you're looking at the right thing:

http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/pics/maf_sensors.jpg

You should have the top one.

Also, try clearing the codes using the connectors. Warm up the engine, connect both the black and green connectors, start the engine, and drive for a few minutes.

Yes I have the correct airflow assembly. Now I did the black and green connectors way and I got a code 32 while driving. stopped and checked doing just the black connectors again and got same 3 codes as before,23,24 and 49. I'm getting a little frustrated, could this all be tied to the fact that I moved my o2 sensor back to just before the cat on my new exhaust? And why do I keep getting the code 49 if I have the right sensor? Will the ecu not reset until all coded problems are fixed?

It's possible that the ECU won't clear any codes unless all problems appear resolved; I don't know.

I have no idea why you'd get code 49 with the correct sensor.

Did you have to extend the wires to move the oxygen sensor?

Yes I got both connectors off a wreck and some 22 gauge wire. Then we wired the two connectors together. I'm thinking something is probably wrong with the wiring that we added, which could cause the code 32 probably. I don't know about the other three though. Can the MAF go bad?

The MAF can go bad, but very rarely does, at least in the stock configuration. Does the car seem to run properly aside from the CEL codes? If it runs right, the MAF is probably okay. I can't say for sure though... If you need another MAF to swap in and test, I have a spare. PM me if you're interested.

Have you gotten under the car to check the oxygen sensor wiring you did? It's possible heat from the exhaust could have damaged some of the wires.

vrg3 is right. The MAF doesn't go bad very often, unless you have a cone filter, perhaps ...

A cone filter that sucks hot air from the engine bay, like mine did, will not only defeat the purpose of the cone filter, but possibly damage your MAF.

It was because of these reasons that I went back to my airbox. Not only have I decided to keep my car as original as possible, but the cone filter was actually making my car slower...

Anyway, ask Legacy777 what happens when a MAF sensor bites the dust. He reported that the car simply sputtered and died and immediately threw a CEL.

I thought there was something probably wrong with o2 wiring or sensor. haven't been under the car yet to look for heat damage or anything else. My car was /is running really really rich. The smell of gas in the exhaust's
very strong. Driving last night it wasn't running well at all but after a while it seemed to run a lot better. I stopped by a friends house and got out with the car still running and the strong fuel smell was gone. Maybe the ecu was adabting to the new o2 location. I'm going for a drive pretty soon so we'll see how it runs today and then I'll try pulling my codes again. We'll see I guess.

My drive didn't go well, I really think something's wrong with the o2 setup.
I'm not sure if it's the wiring or the sensor, haven't actually checked yet. I'm thinking it may be the sensor because i've had small backfires lately,even before new exhaust, which could be from running to rich couldn't it? So it may have been acting up for awhile. On the other hand though, the first day I drove with my new exhaust it seemed to run really well then get worse. Which would point towards melted or damaged wiring. Maybe my car wasn't really running as good as I thought that first day. I was pretty excited so maybe it just felt fast. Well I'll quit rambling and try to fix it.

If you are getting a code 32 when trying to clear the codes with both black & green connectors connected, you have a problem with the O2 sensor. I would also suggest you connect just the green connectors for the more active diagnostic. It will probably give you the same code 32.

Since we're pretty confident your problem is the O2 sensor.....what exactly did you do/change for the new exhaust? How far down the exhaust did you move it from the stock location?

If the cabling went bad due to heat you might want to do it again using asbestos-sheathed wire. You can get it at a hardware store. It's kind of expensive (depending on the place it could be a couple of bucks per foot) but the insulation insulates against heat well.