legacycentral bbs

I finally started to get ready to install my Deadbolt, Monster TD05H-16G with exhaust turbine and compressor housing ceramic coatings. My CES Racing up-pipe and cross pipe, as well as my Autometer Phantom Series EGT.

I'm going to compile some info as I go and eventually do a full write-up with text and pictures on the install but this will just be quick updates and some pics until then.

First thing is to change your oil! Then completely remove your pre and post turbo air intake plumbing and TMIC if you have one. Besides removing my intake I sprayed ( more like hosed) my DP, up-pipe and manifold heatsheild bolts with PB Blast.

Here's a couple pics of the progress so far:





I'll be adding info as I go. Tomorrow is the big day that I hope to have everything mostly installed.

Finally, more pics!

Subarina being preped for surgery (see how calm she is?).


Drain coolant, unhook coolant and oil lines from turbo and remove the DP



Then remove the turbo (I had an oil leak on the return line)



Then remove the lower heat shield on the passenger side exhaust manifold



Then unbolt the turbo support bracket, up-pipe to manifold bolts and remove up-pipe



Out with the old.



In with the new!



The CES up-pipe is bunged for an EGT. The bung is threaded for a m12-1.25 thread. Make sure you have an adapter for your 1/8" NPT probe or have a M12-1.25 probe before install. I didn't and had to just put a bolt in it until I can get an adapter.

Attach the turbo support bracket and tighten down to block and tranny. Then tighten down the up-pipe to manifold bolts. *Haynes manual say's 18-24 ft lbs* Make sure to tighten each bolt a little at a time so that youi get equal pressure on the flange and seat the gasket correctly.



Switch the coolant inlet line around, actually unblot it and turn it over and re-attach. This way it's pointing back towards the OEM Coolant tank location. Future pictures will show this.

I didn't get a before shot for this but it's no biggie. There is a small ridge on the 16G where the DP flange and the up-pipe flange meet. It needs to be ground off for the CES Racing's Boost Enhancement Plate (BEP) to correctly seat on the DP gasket and flange.



Then bolt down the turbo on the up-pipe and re-attach the DP. Be sure to put the DP gasket on the turbo flange FIRST, then the BEP. *You will probably have to remove two PCV hoses that will be in the way of the compressor outlet too.* Always tighten bolts slowly moving in a star pattern (as best you can ) so the you get equal pressure and seat the gaskets correctly.



These are pics of the before mentiones coolant line and the PCV hoses that are in the way.




Then rerun the PCV lines.




Now when hooking the OEM intake piece that attaches to the compressor inlet you'll need to do some trimimg. The VF11 has little lips on a verticle axis to the car that the piece slides around and helps keep it secure. On the 16G they are on a horizontal axis to the car. So, you need to make the slots on the intake piece yourself. I used a utility knife.





Re-assemble the rest of the intake plumbing and double check all your vacuum lines.





Almost done! You just need to refill your coolant. Make sure to sqeeze the main hose every once and a while that comes off the top of the radiator on the passenger side and fill it slow so that you don't get air pockets.





*Before driving or moving the car*. Unhook the coil pack and turn over the engine for 15 seconds and then wait 10 seconds. Repeat this 3 times. Then hook your coil pack back up and let the car run at idle for at least 10 minutes without moving the car or even touching the accelerator. Once you've done this you should have sufficient oil volume built up inside the cartridge and it should be OK to drive. For the 1st 100 mile keep boost at or below 5-7 psi. Then for the next 250 miles keep boost at or below 10-12 psi. After that, drive it like you stole it!


I didn't do the CES cross-pipe yet but will soon. Once I get my adapter for the EGT it too will be going in.

cool

Hotness!

Let us know how the turbo goes...

Remove the airbox completely. It makes a lot more room to move around.

Nice work so far man, you have GOT to get that thing done ASAP for the meet.

you should get plenty of grunt out of that turbo, next upgrade be the gearbox?

Nice, do you have any fuel upgrades?

mK

Awesome, can't wait to hear about the results. Damn I wish I wasn't at school and broke! I miss modding my Legacy.

Mark,

Almost done.......

have you upgraded fuel yet?

All done!!!!! Pictures and stuff coming soon...


Phil- I didn't need to remove the lower half because it really wasn't in my way.

mTk and rsstiboy- Not yet but I plan to soon. I know I won't be able to reach the full potential of the 16G upgrade until I do but one thing at a time. Boostjunkie was running up to 18-19 psi on the stock injectors and ECU and was getting full stoich readings at WOT.

Hmmm, Kelley's ECU and injector upgrade is lookin' better and better.

Well how's it run?

It runs great except that for the first hundred miles I can't boost more then 7 psi. Then after that I have to keep it under 12 psi for another 250 miles. I need to have it broke in for the Feed and Speed this weekend too and I have a big week at work. I guess I'm going to have to do a lot of late night drives this week.

go out and find some nice roads!

check here: http://my.execpc.com/~ytk/pa.htm
http://my.execpc.com/~ytk/pa2.htm
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boul ... roads.html
http://pw1.netcom.com/~pow/greatrides.html
http://my.execpc.com/~ytk/md.htm
http://www.motorcycleridesinamerica.com ... a_west.htm
http://www.motorcycleroads.us/pa.html

i think you get hte point

Dang Matt, your car will end up being faster than boostjunkie's I'm sure since you have a bigger exhaust. Also, I bet it will end up being the fastet one asside from Kelley's.

I really want a vf--23, but that won't come for a while.

fastest legacy anyway..... not liberty i have a few mods planned....

P.S. just found out I have 800cc injectors!
5000rpm, 4th gear, TD05H, 65%idc, 11:1 AFR = BIG INJECTORS. also the fact that they are purple and side feed narrows them down to being power enterprises injectors.

One note Matt - Jason was at 17psi on stock injectors at 100%IDC. Not full stoich, 100% IDC. Eek.

You and your mods, now I'm gonna have to do something to get some more power. I need money first though. I don't get cool deadbolt deals .

What did you do for the BEP?

Phil-Last time I talked to him he said he was pushing 19 psi and reading full stoich on his A/F meter. What you're saying about the IDC is true though too. I will definitely have to address fuel, I know that. He told me in person that when he gave you a ride he was pushing 18-19 psi though. Who knows...


Holy Crap! I'm able to run at 12 psi now and I'll tell ya what. My car's faster at 12 psi on this 16G then it was at 15 psi on my VF11! I can't wait to finish breaking it in and turn up the boost!

I'll be posting up pics hopefully tonight. The install turned out tight, it's real clean looking.

Hmm, when I was in the car, it was only hitting 17psi and was at 100%IDC.

What do you mean full stoich? You mean full rich, or actual stoich?

Man, I want a 16G so bad . I want to run 12.5 to 12.8 daily driven without losing drivability.

I don't think you mean stoich. Stoichiometric mixtures on boost is a very dangerous situation. I remember Jason once complaining that he was only getting stoichiometric readings.

From what I remember, at full boost he was running a 100% duty cycle and maintaining a mixture rich enough that his narrow-band sensor read rich.

Which would be rich enough, Vikash?

I don't know. I think Matt's gonna be in a better position to decide that when he has his EGT gauge in. A meter using a narrowband oxygen sensor isn't really such a useful instrument.

Hmm... I guess I'm confused. He must have said rich not stoich, sorry guys. I'm runnin' on empty here, I've either been working at my job, wrenching on the car or driving trying to put the miles on for the break in. I've had about 10 hrs sleep in the last 3 nights.

There is an issue with the EGT (like I couldn't install it) because the probe was 1/8" and the bung on the CES up-pipe is M12-1.25. It was a total fiasco trying to find an adapter for it and it took me 2 hrs just to find a bolt so that I could plug the bung and continue the install. If I can't get an adapter for the probe then I'll probably wait and install the EGT in the #3 runner. I was really hoping to have it in right away so I could test the limits of the stock fuel and ignition systems but I'll just have to play it safe for a while longer.

Huh. I think M12x1.25mm is the threading on the OEM WRX EGT probe. It's not a thermocouple like "real" EGT probes; I think it's just a thermistor that gives the ECU some idea of whether EGTs are in an appropriate range for the pre-turbo cat or something.

I think some vendors on NASIOC carry adapters to go from M12x1.25mm to 1/8" NPT, so you might want to look on there.

I wonder if you could actually drill and tap an M12 bolt yourself... 1/8" pipe threads are about 9mm in diameter. I guess that would be a little too close. A machine shop could probably do it though.

OMG, I'm soooo damn busy. With getting ready for the F&D, work, breakin' in the monster and my normal Daddy duties I haven't had a chance to post pics. I have a whole bunch of pics covering the install but here's a couple finished pics to hold you all over until I can get the rest up.

VROOOOOOOM PSSSSSSSSSSHT