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gurgling noise behind the dash
Posted: Sat Aug 16, 2003 1:23 pm
by mark-b
i noticed a water gurgling kind of noise behind the dash in the car. it only started after i had a faulty thermostat replaced. i think it could be air mixed with water somewhere. I would appreciate it if anyone has experienced this and has any ideas on how to fix it (or does it need fixing?) thank you
Posted: Sat Aug 16, 2003 2:57 pm
by Dr Nick
Hi Mark. My turbo made a similar for a while after the water pump was replaced. I did the old favourite of putting the heater control onto full hot, then running the engine on tickover whilst topping up the water. Noise doesn't happen now! Hope that helps.
Posted: Sat Aug 16, 2003 3:16 pm
by Legacy777
I'd check to make sure you have all the air out of the system. Mine made that noise when I had a leak in the radiator and air in the system.
Have you found/used the bleed screw on the passenger side of the radiator?
Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2003 12:10 pm
by mark-b
Hi guys, thanks for the help. I will try your ideas and I will let you know how I go. thanks again. Mark
Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2003 9:57 pm
by mark-b
Could I please have more help. I couldn't find the bleeding screw on the radiator. could someone please give me some info on where to find it. I have a BD5 RS legacy. Thank you....Mark
Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2003 11:49 pm
by Legacy777
don't know if the BD has the same type of radiator, but the screw on the first gen legacies is on the top of the passenger side of the radiator.
Are you overseas? It may be on the driver's side for you.
Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2003 4:14 am
by vrg3
Turbo BC/BFs don't have the burp screw. I think it has to do with the coolant filler tank. So I would imagine that your BD turbo doesn't either. You just have to do with Dr. Nick described. The air bubbles rise to the top when the engine is running. You can speed the process up a little by squeezing hoses and shaking the car.
Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2003 2:18 pm
by Brat4by4
Ummm... but be careful squeezing hoses with the radiator cap off... you'll see what I mean.
Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2003 3:26 pm
by vrg3
Yes, you don't want to squirt all the coolant out. If the level in the bottle has already fallen some due to other bubbles escaping, though, you have a little room to squeeze the radiator hose.
Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2003 11:09 am
by mark-b
Hi Fellas, Im from little old New Zealand so its a right hand drive legacy. I couldnt find the bleed screw so I tried letting the car idle with the radiator cap off but when the car got up to operating temp the coolant just started overflowing big time so I gave up with no bubble in sight. Was I doing everything OK? should it start overflowing?? Mark
Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2003 2:49 pm
by vrg3
Yeah, you kind of have to be gentle and finesse it...
The thing is, when it warms up the air bubble will expand and if it doesn't find its way to the top right away it'll instead just push coolant out.
What I do is idle the engine with the cap off, and watch it carefully. When I see it start to rise up this way, I quickly unplug the MAF sensor to stop the engine. Then as it cools a little bit of the air contracts/escapes and the level falls back. This is when I shake the car and squeeze gently and rhythmically on the radiator hose. You can see the bubbles rise and escape when you do it right.
Then I start it up again.
It usually takes several rounds. At some point you do need to make sure the engine warms all the way up so that the coolant circulates through the radiator.
Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2003 1:03 am
by mark-b
Hi vrg3, brat4by4, legacy777, and Dr Nick,
thanks for all the advise. I will give all the advise a go and hopefully I will be rid of that anoying gurgling sound
Mark