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I need the part # for the black plastic PCV part in this pic that looks kinda like a F. ANy help is appreciated as mine broke and my car is sitting....AGAIN! Oh and I'm late for work, the start of a great day.

Crap, it broke? It seems so stupid to use plastic for that part.

What part of it broke? It wouldn't necessarily be great for the engine or the environment but maybe you could put a piece of cloth as a filter over whatever part that broke and limp the car to work with a vented crankcase.

I am going to see about replacing that stupid thing. It doesn't fit at ALL with a 16G.

I'm just gonna extend the line with some heater hose or something, then hack that peice up and frankenstein is all together. Soon as I get an uppipe.

Your upper coolant line is different than mine. But mine is from the stock 16G. It points the other direction (towards the passenger side strut tower).

Vikash - Have you heard ANYTHING from CES lately? I STILL haven't gotten a reply

I'm just concerned about monkeying with a system I don't understand. From all I can tell I should assume it's very fragile and sensitive to geometry.

I haven't heard from CES either. I sent Jeff another email a little while ago... I hope those guys are okay.

I wonder if it's worth trying to whip up a replacement for the plastic F-pipe with some copper from a local hardware store. You could make the main body by carefully bending a piece of 1/2" soft pipe (maybe annealing it first with a torch to make sure it'll bend willingly), and then use a Dremel with a carbide cutter bit to cut an opening for the leg that goes to the PCV valve. That leg would also be a very short piece of 1/2" soft copper pipe. Then you'd just have to figure out how to make the bottom of the pipe go from 1/2" OD to 3/4" OD.

I wonder if that would even work right.

I believe Jerry from Deadbolt told me you can reuse the stock VF11 coolant line if you just widen the hole in the banjo from 10mm to 12mm.

Oh, this might also be a good place to remind people that my vacuum diagrams page also has a pretty useful diagram of the PCV system:

http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/vacuum/

Oh wait -- the lower horizontal leg would need to be 5/8".

So maybe the whole body should be 5/8", and then the top leg could be added on with 1/2" pipe.

I think I have one of those little F's in the box of parts from my EJ22T dismantle. Can you wait a day or two to order it from the dealer? If I have one, I will let it go cheap...

i did what phil was suggesting. i frankensteined it together. works fine so far. all you have to do is cut it in half and put a piece of hose on it to extend it.

FWIW matt the corresponding piece broke on my engine, and it drove alright, stumbled a few times.

vrg3 wrote:Crap, it broke? It seems so stupid to use plastic for that part.

What part of it broke?

Ya, I was trying to put a new compressor outlet hose on, my old one is hosed and torn causing a severe vac and boost leak. When I moved that piece it snaped right off. The bottom part that goes into the hose broke of in the hose.

I haven't heard from CES either since the F&S. I'm kinda starting to worry...

Matt- I might be able to wait, that'd be cool if you have one. Pm me and let me know how much you want for it.

Jake- That's a pretty good idea. I was kind of concidering doing something similar to that. It's going to be a major bitch getting to the lower clamp though.

Hardy- Did it blow oil all over your engine though?

nope

Mine broke in the same place when I last replaced my PCV valve in the cold.

I think it's because the hose has no play in it. I almost broke mine when trying to bend it on that hose. I replaced that hose with a longer length of heater hose, and that was that.

I'm pulling my turbo again soon anyway, so I'll just figure something out then.

here's a picture of what i did, which was basically cut it in half and then piece it together with some hose. i disconnected in the picture on accident while taking out my i/c.

Mine broke at the bottom. I did fix it though. I cut the F piece in half, put a new hose off the block to a 3/4"-5/8" adapter and rigged it all together. It turned out pretty good. Boy was it ever a bitch to get the clamp back on the 3/4" hose coming off the block though, damn it was rough. It seriously took me probably 40 minutes to get it on.

I got it all together and went for a test drive though and my oil light came on. I pulled over and the car was idling very, very rough. It was also clacking so loud from the #4 cylinder that I wanted to cry. I went to check my oil, with the engine still running, and when I pulled the dip stick full on exhaust starting coming out of it. It was crazy. It was full on exhaust pulses. It looked like a tractor's exhaust stack.

I'm starting to think that the damage on #4 is more then just rings and that the piston might have a hole in it or severe crack or something. Pretty depressing.

The engine was so low on oil that it didn't register on the dip stick. I went home and put in a quart and a half that I had and it still didn't register. I guess the #4 is eating oil at an unbelievable rate as I just changed the oil a few weeks back and have hardly been driving the car at all.

When my valve went I ate about a quart a day with moderate driving distance for the two or three days before it finally let go.

Steve