legacycentral bbs

Time to re-torque the heads. What specs should I use? I torqued them by the book when I intalled them. The FSM doesn't list a number, just 90 degrees the another 90 degrees.

Second, what is the torque spec on the axle nuts? I had to remove one of my front axles this weekend (long story).

I feel bad for my shop light...poor thing feels my wrath everytime I get under my car. This weekends total: One dead shop light, one smashed flashlight....And I'm not even done yet:(

axle nut is like 120 ft-lbs or something like that. I'd have to check for the exact number

Check the manual again for the heads. It lists a process where you tighten the heads to a certain lbs (25, IIRC) and the do the 90 degree+90 degree thing. And it is very important that you follow the criss cross tightening pattern they talk about or it may leak...

There's a very strict procedure to use when tightening head bolts on these engines, essentially what you'll be doing is overtorquing the bolts to stretch them out a bit, then loosening them, then torquing them down to the correct amount.

petridish38 has done headgaskets before, as has THAWA, plus a Haynes manual should have decent procedures in it.

This is what I did, but how can I re-torque when it's this 90 degree bullcrap. You don't end on a number, just don't go past 180 degrees.

I think the center bolts is 27 # and the outers are 14 #, then the 90 - 90 twist.

hmmmm

I'm pretty sure that I remember reading somewhere that the bolts did not need to be re-torqued since you stretch them out during the torque procedure and then tighten them down.

EDIT: here it is
http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2Liter.pdf
on page 16 "2.2L Engine Reassembly" 5th bullet down

Not sure if you can trust that.... but that's what I read...

Andrew

Follow the EXACT torquing procedure of the heads as written in the shop manual.

Follow the degrees.. that's how torque will be done. (the sequence is something like : torque to 25lb-ft, loosen 180deg, torque 90, torque 90... do it like they say)