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Looking more like an L now..

Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 11:41 pm
by Spud-GT
http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/showthrea ... post928223 Pics are there. My uploading is not working.

Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 12:10 am
by vrg3
Nice!

What's the process to fill the holes like?

I want to get rid of my spoiler too... it serves little to no function and blocks my view when backing up. I was just going to try to find a trunk lid from an NA to swap on, and live with the slight color mismatch that is nearly inevitable.

Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 12:20 am
by Spud-GT
Not sure on the filling of the holes yet, should know tonight. My father in law knows body work so ima see if we can fill them tonight before dinner or afterwards. Id say its just filling it with filler or bondo or something. Im just going to mask the area around it and spray in gloss black until I can get her repainted.

Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 12:22 am
by vrg3
Cool... Yeah, what I was wondering about was the paint.

I know next to nothing about body work. Might it be reasonable to paint the Bondo with touch-up paint of the right color and then mask it off and clear coat it?

Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 2:07 am
by Binford
BONDO IS NOT FOR FILLING HOLES!(caps intended)
Bondo is used to smooth out metal after it is hammered as straight as you can get it. If you use it on holes, it will fall out. If you must try using bondo, push some inside the hole so it "mushrooms" around the back side.

The only right way to do it is to weld metal into the holes, and grind it down. If done properly, you don't use ANY Bondo. When it comes to paint, the whole trunk lid should be sprayed and cleared. Remember, it's all in the prep. Also, if you end up with bare metal, primer will NOT seal the metal. It must be painted and cleared.

Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 5:21 am
by greg donovan
Binford wrote:BONDO IS NOT FOR FILLING HOLES!(caps intended)
Bondo is used to smooth out metal after it is hammered as straight as you can get it. If you use it on holes, it will fall out. If you must try using bondo, push some inside the hole so it "mushrooms" around the back side.

The only right way to do it is to weld metal into the holes, and grind it down. If done properly, you don't use ANY Bondo. When it comes to paint, the whole trunk lid should be sprayed and cleared. Remember, it's all in the prep. Also, if you end up with bare metal, primer will NOT seal the metal. It must be painted and cleared.
sound like we have another bodyman here for some Q&A repair help. cool. where in MN are you from?

Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 6:26 am
by Binford
I'm in Detroit Lakes. I work with Legacytuner. He turned me on to Legacy turbos, so I bought his parts car to work on.

I'm not a body man by trade, but it was my intentions through high school. I came damn close to going to WyomingTech(before the name change) for auto body/street rod programs. But then I let my hormones get in the way, moved back to Mn from Az, and bought a house, so I'm stuck here until I can sell it. Anyway, I have a bunch of "book knowladge"sp? , but not much "hands on" experience. I have more experience with fiberglass/gelcoat repair than metal. I plan on changing that as soon as I can, though.

Btw, I didn't mean to hijack this thread. I just wanted to throw in some advice in my first post, and I'd be happy to answer any questions if I can.

Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 3:43 pm
by Subaru_Nation555
very nice. What muffler is that?

Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2004 1:06 am
by legacy92ej22t
If I get a FMIC I was thinking about getting rid of my spoiler and putting a N/A hood on too. That way it would be an ultra sleeper. :twisted:

I really like hood scoops though. They help give cars an aggressive stance.