Shift like a pro...

[BAC5.2]

Tired of a limp-dick shifter? Tired of missing gears? Grinding dogs? Tired of that rubbery feel as you blindly throw the shifter into gear? Want a knotchy feel? Want a shorter throw? Want a better quality shift, where the lever falls into gear, rather than having to be shoved? Want to be able to shift with the flick of a few fingers? Want me to stop asking questions?

Ok, well here it is, the "Shift like a pro" guideline by BAC5.2.

Now, no one here took notice of my Bolster mod (which, I'm happy to report, still satisfies me to this day... haters), but this is sure to win a few hearts.

There's a few oddities about the BC and it's shifter. First of all, our shifters house the "fork" portion and the WRX shifter features the "knuckle" portion. It's the exact opposite. The only other, recent generation car that shares OUR shifter setup is the 1993 Impreza. I've seen a FEW short-shifters out there for the 93 Impreza, but none that look very good.

You will also notice (maybe) in the picture (Fig. 1), that the WRX shifter is only about .5" shorter than stock. The lay-back angle is the same for both. The mounting to the actual shift linkage, is in about the same place. The lower ball portion of the WRX shifter is plastic, and smaller than the Turbo Legacy's steel ball. The ball is held in place with a hollow pin. It IS possible to swap them over, but in reality, I don't see any advantage to swapping to the WRX lever. The WRX lever is filled with a motor-mount type of shock absorbant material. You can flex the shifter in the "goo" in your hand. Ours is straight steel, pretty stiff. It's also lighter, but that's a gram-counter thing...

When swapping to the WRX shifter, you would need to swap the lower ball, and you would also need to do 1 of 2 things. Swap the linkage itself, or simply make an adapter to connect to the stock knuckle. I don't think it's worth it.

(Fig. 1)

http://www.thawa.net/bac52/Shifter/shifters.JPG

Now with that little bit of information under our belts, here's the first step I took in my quest for a better shift feel.

As some of you know (or at least do now), I have a Greddy Trust shift knob (stock one wore out. Fig. 2). It was, obviously, designed for the GD, and with the stock amount of threading on the shift lever, it sat about 1.5" higher than it should have. I also had a pimped out shifter boot that I got from Art back in the day (First mod, see what you started Art ). So I got an M12x1.25 steel die, and cut some more threads into the shift lever. I added about 2" of thread as you can see in Fig. 1 (My finger is covering the stock threading. The nut you see is the bottom portion of the newly cut threads).

Cutting more threads allowed my shift knob to sit lower on the lever, and as a bonus, allowed me the room to snug the shift boot to the knob (using that nut to hold it in place). The collar I had was designed to screw in place of the round bottom portion of a Momo shift knob. As soon as this was done, the shift throw felt solid. It was kinda nice, sort of clunked into gear. One step closer to the desired effect. Since the dimensions are the same, I would suspect that you could even cut about 3/4 of an inch off of the stock knob and die more threads on, and acheive the same feel as the stock WRX shifter.

(Fig. 2)

http://www.thawa.net/bac52/Coilovers/Shifter.jpg

Total time: ~20 minutes.


Now, I was having a lot of gear grinding going into 3rd gear. Matt can attest to this. First thing I did to try and remedy this was Group-N engine and tranny mounts. This was at the advice of Brat4by4. It helped a little, and I could DEFINATELY feel a BIG difference when I swapped to those mounts, but it was still a problem. There was a noticeable NVH increase, so for those considering it, know that it is noticeable. I don't mind NVH, not in the least.

So what to do?

Well, I was speaking with Vikash, and decided that a shifter bushing would be a good upgrade. Problem: No one makes shifter bushings for old style cars. Everything is for the 94+ GC, which shares the shift lever design with the GD. So what did I do? Got an Energy Suspension bushing for a GD. Part number is 1170 (Fig. 3).

It wouldn't fit immediately, but that was to be expected. Out comes the knife.

I trimmed the "bubble" edge of the bushing, lubed it with Lithium grease, and made a press out of plastic and a C-clamp. It took some doing, but I got it in. It fits (Fig. 4)

Reinstalled the shift linkage, and drove it. Shifted much better. I felt like I had a more direct link to the transmission.

To drop the shift linkage, it's pretty easy. 3 bolts. Remove the center consoles, unscrew the steel plate around the shifter, unbolt the shift lever from the linkage. Pull up the rubber boot and remove the snap ring with some snap-ring pliers. Pull the shift lever out of the housing and remove the plastic bushing part. Crawl under the car, unbolt the 12mm bolt on the transmission (there is a plate with a spring on it, guess what that spring is? That's the tension spring to keep the shifter in the 3/4 neutral position). Remove the 2 12mm bolts directly above the drive shaft, just aft of the shifter. Can't miss it. The one on the passenger side is pretty difficult to reach, so I got that one from inside the car with an extension on a ratchet.

Drop the linkage, push out the flimsy stock bushing, install the new one like I mentioned above, and bolt it all back together. Pretty straight forward.

(Fig. 3)

http://www.thawa.net/bac52/Shifter/bushing2.JPG

(Fig. 4)

http://www.thawa.net/bac52/Shifter/bushing1.JPG

Total Time: ~1 hour including modding the bushing.


But there is a problem with the stock setup. This is the most impractical problem as well, as I have some resources that others may not.

The stock REAR shifter bushing is, well, shitty. This is an often neglected bushing in all markets I have seen (WRX included). The stock bushing just allows for a LOT of movement. (Fig. 5)

Want to feel movement? Put the car in 4th gear, and pull the lever towards you. Feel the squishiness? Wiggle the lever side to side. Again, the squishiness?

So, I decided to make my own bushing.

I have access to a super high density polycarbonate plastic. This stuff is STRONG. I used it in a record setting concrete beam in high school. I used it to press the bushing in on the front bushing. I've used it as a plate to jack the car up, and it comes away without a mark. It's some freak stuff, but it's awesome. I made a custom motor mount for a direct-drive remote control boat out of the stuff. Neat.

So I did the easiest thing I could think of. Cut a peice to fit where the stock bushing was. Drilled a .5" hole in the center of the bushing, and then cut it in half. Slid it into the stock bracket (after cutting out the stock rubber bushing with my bandsaw), and drilled a hole through it (Fig. 6). I used 2, 1/4 x 2" bolts to hold the new bushing halfs in place (Fig. 7).

(Fig. 5)

http://www.thawa.net/bac52/Shifter/rear%20bushing2.JPG

(Fig. 6)

http://www.thawa.net/bac52/Shifter/modd ... shing1.JPG

(Fig. 7)

http://www.thawa.net/bac52/Shifter/modd ... shing2.JPG

Bolted it all back up.... And was disappointed.

On the bench (or jackstands). I didn't feel any difference. It felt exactly as it did before.

Then I went to move the car.

I slipped it into first, and smirked. *click* right into gear.

Started going, clutch in, *click* 2nd. Clutch in, *click* 3rd.

Not only did the car click through the gears, but it also inspired a LOT more confidence. I felt like I could shift faster, and with more solidity, and less effort. Crisp, short throws, and the shifter sucking into gear. I found myself doing a heel-toe 4th to 2nd shift and not even noticing. Things just felt MUCH more connected.

It felt "right" and how I wanted. Wiggle the lever in gear, and it's snugness rivals the S2000's. Still some wiggle (about .5") likely from the shift forks in the tranny, but significantly less than stock. The new rear bushing DID increase NVH slightly. Vibration is increased due to the severe reduction in compliance over the stock bushing, but it's worth it. All grinding of 3rd gear is gone.

Total time: ~ 2.5 hours including custom fabrication and a trip to Home Depot for bolts and drill bits.

The final "Shift like a pro" mod is easy. Redline 75W90NS GL-5 transmission fluid. This is icing on the cake. It feels like you are shifting into a stick of butter. SOOOOO smooth. Expensive stuff (~8 a quart from www.OGRacing.com ), but it was worth every penny.

So, there you have it folks. My car shifts amazingly well now, and it feels like a much more solid setup.

The total shifter re-model cost me a grand total of $25 (not including the fluid). ~10 for the front bushing. ~5 for the thread die. ~10 for the bolts and drill bits for the rear bushing.

I hope someone finds this guide to be helpful. If there is anything that you guys need explained or elaborated on, let me know and I will be happy to answer any questions you guys have.

[-K-]

That's not UHMW polyproplyne is it? When I had the tranny out for the clutch + flywheel I noticed how soft that rear bushing was and thought about doing almost the same thing. I was going to go solid aluminum but might change my mind. Are they the same as WRX rear bushings? Might be worth just changing to a new one that's not worn out if you don't want to go custom.
Also did you replace the plastic bushing in the "cup" that the ball sits in? Did that still feel tight? Mine was a little loose but I didn't have time to mess with the shifter, I just needed my car running.

[professor]

great tips. Now I'll be holding on to that Enery shift bushing I have, for sure. Everyone made it sound like hell on earth to get the linkage out. Thanks for making it sound do-able.

BTW I think that is ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) which can be obtained in small quantities from www.mcmaster.com

that stuff basically cannot be broken, and is machinable. It is used on skid plates for F1 cars, and the skid plates on my gloves when I'm downhilling. What thickness did you use ??? I've got lots of spare small pieces if anyone needs them.

[greg donovan]

a little confused by this section.

I trimmed the "bubble" edge of the bushing, lubed it with Lithium grease, and made a press out of plastic and a C-clamp. It took some doing, but I got it in. It fits.

could you show a before pic of the bushing in question?

and all of this was done using the BC shift lever, correct?

[BAC5.2]

In order to help keep things straight...

-K- - I have no idea what kind of plastic it is actually. I got it from my old high school. I do know that I used it in my 3lb concrete beam project. That 3lb beam supported just over 700 pounds, and when the concrete split, the poly reinforcement was flexing, supporting the bridge. I love the stuff, it's so easy to work with. A bandsaw, dremel, sander and drill and you can make damn near anything with it.

Solid aluminum would work too, but the problem is getting the whole thing to fit in the bracket. You could mill a whole mount setup, but oyu would still need to make it 2 peice because of the end design.

It is the same as the WRX bushing as far as I know.

No, I didn't replace the plastic bushing in the "cup". I packed it with grease though.

Professor - Thanks! Yes, definately hold onto that bushing. It will fit, as you can see.

Getting the linkage out come to 16 total bolts. 6 on the interior trim peices. One on the shift lever-linkage. 6 on the metal plate holding the rubber boot to the car. 3 on the linkage itself. The most difficult part is the 12mm passenger side bolt, and getting the spring back on the plate. A few things worthy to note: The plate with the spring is slotted and only fits in one spot. Remember that. Also, it's hard as a mother to get the new bushing around the rod, so I pushed it on as best I could, then simply put the plate on, and cranked it down like that.

I do have a quesiton for you though: Which Energy bushing kit did you get?

Greg - The bubble is the outer edge of the bushing. It was just a beveled and to large to even attempt to fit.

For the clamp, I just took the peices of plastic I used for this bushing, and sandwiched the bushing and the lever and clamped it down. I'm sorry I don't have pictures of when I did that project.

The easiest way to understand it is that you simply have to trim one side to look like how I made it.

All was done using the stock BC shift lever from my 94 Turbo.

[greg donovan]

could some of the smoothness/solid feel of the wrx shifter come from the extra weight?

and your description makes more sense now. thanks. i think i know what the winter project is gonna be now.

[BAC5.2]

The WRX shifter is smooth because of the vibration damping material in the shifter itself.

Remove that, and the shifter feels knotchy.

My car shifts better than a WRX (at least IMO). It throws like the STi short shifter, but feels a lot better. I like it .

[Brat4by4]

Or if you have already swapped to the WRX setup, you can just get the Cobb Double adjustable and call it a day. If only I had gobs of cash laying around waiting to be spent...

And I found that with the crappy synchros in my transmission, that just the added height that the stock knob adds slows down the shift enough to let it engage smoother. I was driving with the knob off for a little bit while I was reassembling the interior and it would engage the synchros too fast with that 2 inch difference.

[evolutionmovement]

Going to my $1.25 Home Depot wood knob shifter made a huge difference in shift quality alone and I think my shifter has a peculiarly nice feel compared to everyone's comments and to other cars I've driven. This should be useful when I have to get a new transmission, though.

Phil, it must be UHMW as polycarbonate is clear and unreinforced (bullet-proof glass). A good source for small bits is the off-cuts bin at plastic supply companies. They usually go $X/lbs. UHMW is heavy, but you don't need much, so it should be cheap. Plastics are friggin' awesome.

Steve

[BAC5.2]

William - The cobb unit handles height, but not bushing stiffness.

Outshifting the synchro's is just a matter of driving style. The way a synchro works, it always engages before the dogs do. It's the amount of time you give them to work, that determines the smoothness of a shift. Hence the need for people like us to rev-match an upshift, if we fully allow the synchro's to spin the collar up to speed. (people like us, being those of the lightweight flywheel variety).

My shifts are smooth, non-grindy, and butter.

They are solid and click through the gates, like the dogs are pulling the car into gear.

It's all in the bushing, as I've found out. In a few thousand miles I'll check the bushing again and see how it's holding up. I don't forsee any wearing of it though, as that arm doesn't move much.

[BAC5.2]

Steve - This stuff is pretty light weight. But it's SOLID. I love the stuff. I wish I knew more about it. I got it for free, but I'll probably buy some if I need some. I've used it for everything from the beam project (like I stated before) to bushings in the car, to custom mounting brackets, and everything in between.

When cut thin, it's flexible but won't break. Also seems to be very resistant to heat (and oil).

[LaureltheQueen]

vacuum your car. yuck

[BAC5.2]

There's a good reason why my car is so dirty... I'm lazy.

I almost forgot to show everyone my ghetto garage skillz.

I was forced to make my own creeper....

[skid542]

Nice write up Phil, it's a good addition to the BBS.

As far as what plastic it is guys ... there are a lot of ultra-high molecular weight polymers. I agree in that it's not polycarbonate but it could be anything from a polypropylene to a polystyrene to a polychlorine. Like I said, there are a lot of white, flexible, workable, strong, etc. plastics with the same qualities as you mention though if it's pretty resistant to heat it's probably not a nylon. Personally if you were going to try and track some plastic down I'd just get a small piece of teflon but then again there are also plenty of UHMWP that are self lubricating that would work well I bet. Irregardless, its always good to have spare plastic stock and such lying around .

[vrg3]

Very nice and useful writeup, Phil, but was it necessary to include ginourmous pictures without thumbnails?

[mikec]

Yeah, thanks for the writeup Phil. I'm going to see what I can do about that rear bushing using some stuff my brother picked up.

[evolutionmovement]

Some kind of fiberglass-reinforced plastic? I used some oil impregnated fiberglass reinforced plastic for a machine I built at work and that was some excellent stuff. Can't remember what it was exactly, but it came in green. Anyway, there are plenty of suitable plastics.

Steve

[greg donovan]

where did you get that shifter bushing? PN#1170?

is it this one?

http://home.att.net/~teaguesauto/trannywr.htm

the first choice on that page.

[BAC5.2]

Greg - That one will probably work.

I got mine on e-bay, and it came in a box.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... gory=33736

Just like that.

Search for WRX SHIFTER and it's whatever energy suspension bushing there is. I don't like the 2-peice design for that particular bushing.

Some WRX guys checked out my work, and one of them said my shifter felt significantly more solid than his STi short shifter. I sat in his car and checked it out, and my setup is a lot stiffer and a lot more solid.

Yes Vikash, it was necessary . Sorry 56k guys.

If anyone has any specific shifter questions, I think I have a good bit of knowledge gained about our shift mechanism.

[vrg3]

The 2-piece design is supposed to be easier to install, right? Since you don't have to squeeze the wide portion of the donut through anything?

Why were the humungous images necessary?

It's not just frustrating for people with 56k connections. It screws up rendering until all the images are downloaded, which even on fast networks is much slower than most people read. It puts extra unnecessary load on Hardy's server and on all our networks.

The mod I made to Hardy's gallery scripts even makes all the bbCode for the thumbnail for you. All you have to do is copy and paste.

[BAC5.2]

The 2 peice is supposed to be easier to install, but they are also more expensive when this is cheap. ~15 shipped is a pretty good value.

I don't use the photogallery. If it would make things easier, I could just turn them into hyperlinks.

[vrg3]

Yeah, the cost of the 2-piece bushing kind of seems silly given how often you have to install it (once, hopefully) and remove it (never, hopefully).

I didn't realize you weren't using the photo gallery. Why don't you just use the photo gallery?

In my opinion, hyperlinks would be much better than this.

[BAC5.2]

I just like the FTP setup better. More organized. I'll convert them to links.

The energy bushing is so easy to install, it's well worth the price.

In fact, none of the mods I did were hard, they were just ballsy. I cut the rubber out of the stock bracket and after that, I just had to pray that my setup would work, or my car would be sitting for a while, lol.

[vrg3]

Hehehe... I wonder if the turbo and non-turbo parts are the same. It'd be cool to do this on junkyard parts first.

[BAC5.2]

I can't imagine that the rear bracket is any different. It's a simple bushing with a .5" hole in it. I'd be fairly certain that they are the same.