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Exedy EJ25 clutch in a 91ss, a problem?

Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 9:41 pm
by kleinkid
I had an Exedy EJ25 clutch installed on my 91SS. I have to push the clutch pedal hard to the floor before the clutch disengages to allow the gear to be shifted. I do not feel this is right. I have had to move my seat forward in order to get enough travel and force to push the pedal all the way in. This puts me in a bad driving position. In other words, the clutch should disengage before the pedal is so far down close to the floor. The stock flywheel is currently installed. Is not having a WRX flywheel installed causing this problem?

Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 10:23 pm
by THAWA
Wait wait wait. How did you get a push style clutch to work with your pull style flywheel, and fork/tob setup?

Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 1:47 am
by legacy92ej22t
Ya, that doesn't sound right. I didn't think the EJ25 clutch was compatible with BC/BF turbos. :?

If you want to do a clutch from a WRX (EJ20T) you need the WRX flywheel too.

Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 8:32 am
by entirelyturbo
THAWA wrote:Wait wait wait. How did you get a push style clutch to work with your pull style flywheel, and fork/tob setup?
He got it to work because his Sport Sedan has a hydro push-style clutch ;)

more info

Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 9:01 am
by kleinkid
Found out that the pressure plate is an ACT and the clutch disc is Exedy and is EJ25. The clutch is hydraulic operated, not cable. I mistakenly thought it was WRX. The friction point is way down near the floor and is not satisfactory.

Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 9:10 am
by scottzg

Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 2:34 pm
by legacy92ej22t
Ya, it's understood which style clutch (hydro) is on the SS but I still didn't think the EJ25 clutch was compatible.

Help me understand, you have an ACT pressure plate that's designed for the hydro setup and mated an EJ25 clutch disc to it? Is that what you're saying?

Is the EJ25 disc the same size as an OEM SS clutch disc?

Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 3:37 pm
by Legacy777
woah woah.

There are two different hydro setups. The push style and pull style. The EJ25 setup is the push style and NOT compatible with the pull setup.

So if you have a hyro pull setup on a hydro push setup, there's no wonder you're having issues.

Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 3:50 pm
by legacy92ej22t
Hmm, I didn't know that EJ25's had hydro pull clutches or a hydro at all for that matter. I thought they had a cable pull setup.

Do all Subarus with the EJ25 have a hydro pull setup?

Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 6:54 pm
by Legacy777
They don't....I'm sorry, I had it straight in my head, but wrote it incorrectly. I edited my post above.

Almost all, if not all newer subarus have hydro clutches. All the n/a motors have the push style clutches, while all the turbo motors have the pull style setup.

Clutch saga continued

Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 6:56 pm
by kleinkid
The installer told me it was an ACT pressure plate and a Exedy clutch disc. Says it is an EJ25. The end of the fork has a little depression where the pin sticking out of the slave cylinder mates to push on the fork to disengage the clutch. The friction point is way down on the floor.

Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 6:20 am
by illnastyimpreza
That is exactly how its sapposed to feel when its brand new. Once you wear it in, the engagment point will back off dramaticly.

When I got my new ACT clutch and jun flywheel installed on my 98 RS...I stalled it 3 times in a row before I learned that as soon as it leaves the floor the thing will grab. Now that I put a couple miles on it...its engagment point is way further back and much better to drive.

Friction point near floor fixed

Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 1:46 am
by kleinkid
Having the disengagement point near the floor might be fine for some, but it was not right for me. Mile-hi(posts on this site) mentioned that the fix is a longer rod for the slave cylinder. I was not able to contact him to get more information , but did a search and discovered that www.taboospeedshop.com had a fix for it also. If you scroll down on their home page you will see a 1/4" longer slave cylinder rod with instructions and a report on this issue. It explains it very well. For $20 I had a local machinist make me a rod 5/16" longer and used the installation process described on the Taboospeedshop website. It worked just as described. Now I do not have to depress the clutch pedal to the floor to get the clutch to disengage. Way more efficient, much more comfortable to shift and makes the ACT clutch work the way it should. I used 5/16" longer because if it turned out to be too long it could be ground down to make it shorter. Did not have to do that. I had this ACT clutch installed at Rallitek in Portland Oregon and will take my car to them for any mods/repairs I do not want to tackle. They are knowledgeable, friendly and pleasant to work with.

Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 2:28 am
by BAC5.2
How tall are you?

The only downside I see to my clutch engaging at the floor (literally, about 1 inch from the floor), is that it is engaged before the clutch pedal reaches full extension. So launching really hard is kind of tricky.

I'm running the Exedy clutch with the Exedy pressure plate though, and it was all WRX parts.

I'll probably get this exact same setup again next time. I am curious if the 6-speed cluthc gear will fit our cars though...

Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 8:52 pm
by kleinkid
I am 6' tall and in order to comfortably push the clutch pedal to the floor I had to move the seat up which made me feel cramped. It is much better for me now that the longer slave cylinder rod is in. With the seat moved back to where it was before the new clutch was installed I am once again a happy SS driver.

Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 9:00 pm
by Brat4by4
I will reiterate that a brand new pressure plate and clutch will put the engagement point near the floor. This will change with time (600+ miles).

I hope your longer rod doesn't mean it will engage at the very top of the stroke when it breaks in...

Posted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 6:47 am
by illnastyimpreza
Brat4by4 wrote:I will reiterate that a brand new pressure plate and clutch will put the engagement point near the floor. This will change with time (600+ miles).

I hope your longer rod doesn't mean it will engage at the very top of the stroke when it breaks in...
thats what I'm thinking.