legacycentral bbs

When I eventually get a 10" sub for my car, I plan to have a semi-fiberglass box built so I lose very little cargo space, and can still fold the rear seat down and sleep in the car when I'm camping and whatnot. When I have this done, it would be possible for my installer friend to either save the mold, or create a few more using the same mold, saving me some money if some of you guys are interested.

It would sit in one of the red spots, Tim and I still need to take a good look at the area and see if there's a way that I could still get into the bottom area (where I keep my detailing supplies and spare tire)easily, but I'm sure he'll be able to work something out.


Would you be interested?
How Much would you be willing to pay?

Good call, Laurel. . . . was wondering when you'd start asking folks about this.

The driver's side will probably be more practical. No fuel filler plumbing in the way, etc. The carpeting, though. . . I'm sure there'll have to be a bit of trimming. . . kind of like what Tim had to do to mine.

I was thinking stuff would stay stock, no interior panels would be missed. I'd imagine it could just be bolted down to the floor, and taken out relatively easily as well. Once again, would need to ask tim about the options

Word. . . at worst, perhaps a couple holes in the bottom carpet, whereas the carpet could be folded up to the side when accessing the spare tirewell.

I had a very similar setup in my old Corolla when I had a Bazooka tube on the left side of the trunk. The straps were bolted to the floor, right through the carpet, and folding it over the tube for a minute to access the spare was cake. Worked-out wonderfully.

My battery is bolted through the carpet to the floor. No problems from me. I can still get the carpet up when necessary.

Laurel, I'd be extremely interested. Isn't the problem going to be matching the size of the enclosure to the speaker being used though? Different subs are going to have different volume requirements. Just something to think about.

Regardless, I've been thinking about changing my sub setup because it's super heavy and takes up a lot of valuable cargo space. I certainly could use that. I've also got a pretty good idea of how all those panels come apart as I've got the headliner out right now while I try to fix the sunroof leak:(

-Brian

You could probably only do it on the right hand side where the spare box is, because the left hand side has the jack. But then you lose the box (which I keep my emergency tools in).

The other option which I've looked at , is to flip the space saver up side down and fit the sub into the wheel well, in doing this you will lose the plastic lid that covers the spare wheel. This is replaced by your sub box of course.

Or ditch the spare completely and go for tire in a can.

Um.... You'd be able to move the sub box to get to the jack

Brian . . . you'd be surprised how many 10" subs can use the exact same airspace and still sound great.

Thing is, specs always give a specific RANGE for the box to fall into. So long as the volume of the box (loaded with the average driver) falls within the range of most subs, we're golden.

Good to know Art. I haven't looked at subs since I got mine a good 6 years ago. My JL 12" sounds great and has served me well. I'm thinking of either building a smaller, sealed box for it, but I haven't the motivation lately. Does anyone have first hand experience with sealed vs. ported sub boxes?

-Brian

Properly-designed, either can yield amazing results. The trick is to tune it properly with the right length of port.

Sealed boxes don't tend to be quite as efficient, but are smaller, and don't require tuning, nor extra surface area for a port to get to air.