legacycentral bbs

I have a 95 Legacy EJ22-T. With a WRX turbo and IC, and a greddy type s bov. I have the greddy emanage so I can run it atmospheric.

My problem is I keep having to adjust the bov. It will flutter (not good) then whistle (whats its supposed to do). Or vice versa. I can't seem to get it just right. Any ideas?
David

Is the spring inside adjustable?

yeah there is a screw you can use to adjust it, but I am sure there is a spring inside of it.

But because it is a wrx bov, made for boost applications like 14-17psi, and I am only pushing 4-5psi, would that matter too?

Since you have e-manage, there should be no problem adjusting it all the way to "soft" right? The computer should compensate for the leak. If not, then there is a sweet spot where it wont leak at idle, and also wont cause compressor surge. I remember having to do this a while back when I had the type S, just put it all the way "soft" then slowly tighten it down until you dont feel it sucking in anything. That worked for my setup and that was on the stock ECU.

I have the greddy type s bov on my car. It's kinda a pain in the a**. It should make a relatively short psst noise when you change gears. You might want to make sure the bov is tightened down all the way. Adjusting the bov for a hard setting will cause the fluttering noise and too soft it'll open before you hit full boost. There is a sweet spot though. It just takes some time to find it.

what happens if it flutters still when I blow off, and it idles poor at idle sometimes becuase it leaks?
I would think it would do the opposite, but this is what my problem is.

anyone?

Do you think the bov is leaking? The fluttering probably means you have it set too hard or your letting off before boost builds to the point you have the bov tuned for. Mine would flutter if i changed gears at 5psi or so rather than 12 or above. You could possibly have a vacuum leak somewhere else that is causing the poor idle.

Mine just flutters normally at low boost. (Not wastegate) The bad idle is most likely a vacuum leak, but then again, going to a TM, you are going to run rich. That's going to mess your idle up a bit. Don't worry about it, as long as the car doesn't stall out.

my care doesnt stall out, thank goodness.
Vacuum leaks I was thinking but I read 19-20mmHg (vacuum) at idle.
Also when idling I can feel air coming out of the bov, so I tighten it until no air leaks, but I tap the gas a little, air comes out and the car begins to idle bad and the rpms bounce from 1000 to 300, for a good few minutes.
Is that normal for air to shoot out at only 1000rpms? and then the bov doesnt close itself so it idles like crap.

Have you considered running a recirculated setup?

are you sure you have all the hoses in the correct places?

I have considered a reciric setup.
All the hoses, yeah.
On the Greddy Type S, the top nipple goes to a vacuum source (gets T with my boost guage and my far left intake manifold line) Bottom nipple stays with nothing on it.

I have it tightened to where it idles fine, no air leaking, but I tap rev the engine a little, and air comes out and the idle goes bad for a few minutes until it balances itself out.
So I go for a drive with it like that, and it flutters bad.
Its like I will have either a good bov, but bad idle, or vice versa.

Or you could tighten the shit out of it and see if it still does it

it would flutter or surge even more.

But it wouldn't be coming open at low pressure. Like i said, mine flutters occasionally when i get off of it suddenly at low boost. They are pretty simple mechanisms so not much can go wrong with them. Is the O-ring inside of it intact and where it should be?

And its not going to run great because the car wasnt made for an atmospheric venting bov. If you want to fix that, do what vikash suggested and recirculate it. Or get some engine management that will fix it.

I have the greddy emanage so I can vent it to atmosphere. I would love to make it recirc, but need to find a new intake to make my pcv and recirc line all work.
Everything seem fine, it will idle, but any small rev, the diaphram will open, and slowly close, leaking air and idle goes bad.
So I tighten it, rev is fine, but it flutters when driven. There is no sweet spot, its either good idle bad flutter, or bad idle swoosh flutter.
And its a type s so a swoosh is still wrong becuase its supposed to whistle.
Hell I dont even care about the noise, like I said if I can find an intake to mate up for a atmospheric, then I will do that.

first of all run more boost second the fluttering noise is happing cuz there is no boost to open the bov. 5 psi is not opeing it, so its a surge noise going back in the turbo and making your fluttiring noise.

next step crank the boost open the bov not to much half way, rip it in every gear and your fluttiring wont be there cuz your driving the car not grandmoming it and thinking this noise is bad.

ps puff puff pass that shit its to strong for you americans, give me back our canadian weed.

hahaha, good advice.
Actually at 5spi it should be enough. The Avo kits push 5-6psi, and so do many others.
But I eventually recirculated it and now its all fixed, it wasnt worth trying to make it atmospheric.