legacycentral bbs

This is not work safe because your emotions might get the best of you and you might start screaming at your computer which might get you fired and/or sent to the nut house.


I put full synthetic in my 243K mi legacy because it just felt good......and it was on sale. The local K-mart is merging with sears so everything is being blown out. I bought a case of the stuff for $10.00 so I went home and did an oil change.

It makes the leggy go vroom vroom!!! Lets see how fast I burn it.

I installed 4 quarts and a brand new Fram filter...anybody want to guess how long it will stay in my engine? Everytime I turn the "power" light on I get a little puff from the tailpipe. I dump it more than once a day...

You'll get the same puff from the tail pipe when you switch back to dino oil for a few thousand miles too, if not forever.

What you have done, is cleaned all the sealing varnish off of your 15 year old dried and cracked oil seals, so the likelihood that the varnish will build back up and reseal the seals, is unlikely. I doubt you'll ever be able to keep oil in the car without replacing the seals.

I don't expect to get a million miles out of this car. This will be the one to get the 20TT swap.

I don't care what anyone says.....she is getting a TiTy.

Um, OK....

legacycontinues wrote:I don't expect to get a million miles out of this car. This will be the one to get the 20TT swap.

I don't care what anyone says.....she is getting a TiTy.

That's what I said. When I was 16.

Fram oil filter= crap.

Go to your local Scooby store and get an oem one. IIRC they're Purolator.

I use fram because they have that gripy stuff on them. I have been using them for years and never had a problem.

Does anyone have proof in writing that fram is crap???

I think Valvoline is crap but thats just my opinion...I don't go around broadcasting it though.

Well, ya, that gripy bottom on the Fram is kinda nice but...

The Purolator ones have some kind of valve in them that isn't in the Fram and other brands of oil filter. The lack of this valve can cause lower then normal oil pressure and lash adjuster noise. I've also heard that the Fram in particular have had issues with separation of the cardboard inside and caused engine damage.


The Purolator only cost a dollar or two more then a Fram and Subaru recommends only using their filter, but hey, do what you want, it's your engine. I was just trying to give you a heads up.

Here, go read this thread on NABISCO. It took me all of two seconds to find this.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... oil+filter

This is taken off the following link of an oil filter study that was done:

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/



Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. These filters are manufactured by Allied Signal, Inc. Please do not buy these filters. By boycotting it, we may be able to cause some change. I have personally had one if these filters fail and actually cause engine damage due to bits of paper and glue floating around in the engine.

For some inside dirt on Fram filters, see this email from an Allied Signal production engineer.



Fram Extra Guard PH8A


This filter cartridge has a small outside diameter with a rather low filter element surface area (193 sqin), and features cardboard end caps that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and easily leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. If you have a noisy valve train at startup, this filter is likely the cause. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time, but they often leak anyway. The backplate has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow, and is made of thin material.

It's still more personal opinions. There is no lab testing. Get me something from Consumer reports and I will stop using fram.

Whatever, you're just stubborn me thinks.

Did you even go to the link about the study? Their own engineer says their crap.

Do what you want, I'm done with it.

I've heard synth can be bad.. if the majority of the seals are replaced, could it be run, though?
Any gains expected?
legacycontinues, i for one am not mad, but i'm worried for your car. Change the oil, or we're calling CPS.

Car Protective Services?

*giggle*
yup.

Tris - Yea, it's bad for older cars. It cleans the varnish off of seals. That varnish has prevented new oil from touching the seals, thus allowing them to dry and crack and rot. Synthetic cleans this varnish away, exposing the dried and decrepid seals.

Properly changing your "dino" oil, will prevent this varnish from accumulating to much, but how many people ACTUALLY change their oil every 3,000 miles for all 243,000 miles?

The people who run synthetic in their old ass engines, likely have religiously taken care of the maintainence of the vehicle.

I for one know that within 1000 miles of changing from dino to semi-syn, I got my first oil leaks(at 165k miles) ALL OVER my engine. I blame Jamie(SubieGal) who told me that she did it in her impreza and that my legacy wouldn't. Oh well...


When I do my next oil change I think I'm going to go with a Bosch or K&N Filter.

any suggestions on what oil to use?

my visor says to change the oil every 7000 miles

What kind of synthetic lube did you use, legacycontinues? My understanding is that the more advanced formulations don't actually eat all the varnish off the seals anymore.

The deal with car companies "recommending" that you change your oil every 7k, is that the DOT puts pressure on car manufacturers to say to only change it every 7k to reduce "cost of ownership per year" or whatever it is stuff. Go to any dealership and they'll tell you the logical way to do it is 3k.

I go at least 10k and my engine looked brand new with 246k on it. Even my lifters rarely acted up. I use Mobil 1 and the best filters I can find at the store (sometimes I'm lucky to find any) since they'll be on there for a while. 3k mile oil changes are to make money or for cheap oil. Mercedes-Benz, for one, has oil change indicators that sometimes don't go off for 20k miles.

Steve

I did go to the link and read what that person had to say. I am sure he did a good job but I do not think he is qualified to give answers that wopuld stand up in a court of law. I have been using fram filters for a long time now and have never had a problem.

As for oil I went with the (usually) $3.50 a quart Quakerstate Full synthetic. The one with the top that looks like the head of a bolt. I got a case for $10.00

I have noticed a dramatic increase in drivability. It hauls ass, it idles great...I am very very happy.

Even if it burns or leaks out fast I will continue to use it untill the case is gone but I will switch to a 100% OEM filter.....for al you OEM nuts.

Maybe I should take me new $8.00 a blade Rain-X wipers back and go get OEMs or sell the JVC MP3 and replace the sweet tape deck I had in there....LOL!! J/K

I've used Fram a few times when I couldn't find anything else and, well, I already described the excellent condition of my engine internals, so I wouldn't say it will kill your car to use them.

Steve

Most manufacturers actually still recommend about 3k miles for severe service conditions. They will suggest 5k or 10k or whatever if you don't drive in a severe service condition. I can't think of anyone that doesn't drive in at least one severe service condition.

Starting the car more than once per day, is considered a severe service condition.

Laurel - Castrol GTX, not the high mileage shit, just the regular.

It's good oil. I have been running it for a while with no ill effects.