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what is invloved in replacing the oild drain/return line from the turbo?

does the turbo have to come out?

or can i weasel the old one out and the new one in w/out removing too much?

I'd say that you'll have to remove the turbo to replace it. It's a real bitch just to get it on when reinstalling the turbo. I can't imagine trying to do it with the turbo still in.

I replaced mine with a stainless steel braided oil line. That worked great, and it slipped snugly on without leaks.

BAC5.2 wrote:I replaced mine with a stainless steel braided oil line. That worked great, and it slipped snugly on without leaks.

how about a source for that line? you still had to pull the turbo to intall that, right?

I got it from a local redneck speed shop. Summit would have it too. It was an AN11 or 12 line or something, Vikash will probably correct this as he knows what AN size is what.

I did pull the turbo to replace it. The braiding held it super tight on the neck, so I just slid the turbo down onto it.

I think if you have a brand new hose you could do it with the turbo still on. I almost managed to do it with this old one, I just needed a few more mm's. I decided to just take the turbo off though.

-10 AN hose would be about right.

You could get just a few millimeters by undoing just the three nuts that hold the turbo to the uppipe, right?

Well that's what I did, but at the time there was no downpipe on it so it came off

I think I may have to do this to my car. I bought a set of 14 inch set of needle nose pliers so I could get in there without having to unbolt anything but I'm finding it's still difficult. I can't seem to find the steel braided oil hose anywhere. I haven't checked NAPA yet though. But I recommend the long pliers anyway, they are useful. I need to get those washers V mentioned and at the same time check the inlet to see if it's squirting properly. Any idea what kind of pressure I should see?

A related question: Do you think oil thickening agents could cause harm to our turbos by increasing the oil viscosity too much or do they break down enough to not cause any harm?

For the oil drain hose, go to an auto parts store and ask for a power steering return hose for a 1995 Toyota Supra twin turbo. Inspect it before you buy it, but it should be several feet of 5/8" ID hose. A four-inch length of it should fairly neatly replace our stock turbo oil drain hose, and power steering return hose should be able to handle the heat and oil.

What oil thickening agents are you referring to?

why is the supra PS hose better than an OEM drain hose?

cost?

more durable?

easier to install?

You mean why is it better than the OEM part number 807515712? It's just easier to find (Advance Auto Parts often stocks it)... It's cheaper per unit length, too (the ~4" OEM hose lists for $10 while the several-foot-long Supra hose costs like $12-$15).

I guess it probably is more durable, since it's got a thicker wall. That thicker wall does make the stock spring-type hose clamps nearly useless, though. But I've had it on my car for at least a few oil changes without any leaks.

Maybe you could say it's easier to install too because it's more rigid, and because you could leave off the hose clamps and not feel too guilty? The way I put mine on was to put the the line on the turbo, put the clamps in the right spots (including the lower one), and pushing the turbo onto the car. I didn't use pliers at all. The Right Thing To Do would be to get different clamps, though, I suppose.

vrg3 wrote:For the oil drain hose, go to an auto parts store and ask for a power steering return hose for a 1995 Toyota Supra twin turbo. Inspect it before you buy it, but it should be several feet of 5/8" ID hose. A four-inch length of it should fairly neatly replace our stock turbo oil drain hose, and power steering return hose should be able to handle the heat and oil.

What oil thickening agents are you referring to?

Engine restore and or Mystery oil.

How much pressure is the inlet line under?

I wouldn't use any of those additives in my oil anyway... I don't think you can really predict how they'll interact with the additive packages already present in the lube. I could very well imagine it hurting the turbo or the engine.

I don't think the oil feed line is restrictive enough to affect oil pressure materially, so I would imagine that it's at full engine oil pressure. The factory service manual specifies that the EJ22T should have 14 psi oil pressure when the engine is at 176 degrees and 600 RPM, and 43 psi at 5000 RPM. I'm a little unsure about that, though, because it seems to list the same numbers for non-turbos...

that is the oil pressures my old loyale ran at.

i still get a kick out of the fact that that little pile had more gauges than my SS

oil presssure, volt, tach, speedo. and the turbos had a boost gauge.

sure they werent the most accurat but at least i knew i had oil pressure and the alternator was putting out enough juice.