legacycentral bbs

well they aren't really flywheel bolts, but they hold a peice of sheet metal to the crankshaft on an AT 2.2t . I'm going to put the engine in a manual transmission car so i need to get them off. There are eight bolts there, and they are darn tight. Has anybody had this problem? I have broken two 14mm sockets with my breaker bar already. Next thing i will try is an pnuematic impact wrench i guess if i can barrow one. - Any other ideas?

They're flexplate bolts. And that piece of sheet metal is the flexplate. You just gotta put some man into it and they'll come loose.

..and find your way thru that little hole to get to 'em!
Keep trying, I know they're a biatch...

You're thinking of the other bolts that hold the converter to the flexplate. Those are pretty easy to do.

Impact gun or someone holding the front crank bolt

Impregacy wrote:well they aren't really flywheel bolts, but they hold a peice of sheet metal to the crankshaft on an AT 2.2t . I'm going to put the engine in a manual transmission car so i need to get them off. There are eight bolts there, and they are darn tight. Has anybody had this problem? I have broken two 14mm sockets with my breaker bar already. Next thing i will try is an pnuematic impact wrench i guess if i can barrow one. - Any other ideas?

They serve the same purpose as the flywheel bolts (but are shorter due to the flexplate being thinner than a flywheel) Get a Craftsman 14mm 1/2" drive socket (and a breaker bar if you do not already have one). If it breaks Sears will give you a new one, so you can try again

Jam something big through the access hole and flexplate to keep the thing from turning, and go for it. When you drop this engine into the MT car, you will need the flywheel and flywheel bolts from the old engine (unless the flywheel is bad (look for cracks where the flywheel mates with the clutch disc), in which case you need a new flywheel)

well, so far the brute force approach has just been breaking my sockets. so i think it's a very good idea to get a half inch drive socket since they are designed to be stronger. Then maybe more length can be added to the breaker bar. Thanks guys.

Torque spec on those is only 58lb, IIRC, you need to spray the shit out of them with liquid wrench or gunk. They shouldn't be giving you this kind of trouble. I have never had a problem with them once the flex plate was secured by jamming a screwdriver through the access plate on the top of the block...

thanks guys. I finally got them. Never thought to use that access hole -that was a much better way to hold it than what i was doing earlier. Anyway i got a $6 1/2" drive socket. put it on my breaker bar and had to have someone hold the whole engine to keep it from lifting off the floor. i must be lucky the heads didn't twist off.

Impregacy wrote:thanks guys. I finally got them. Never thought to use that access hole -that was a much better way to hold it than what i was doing earlier. Anyway i got a $6 1/2" drive socket. put it on my breaker bar and had to have someone hold the whole engine to keep it from lifting off the floor. i must be lucky the heads didn't twist off.

Nah, those things are hardened steel, quite hard to twist in half. . .

i can remember twisting off the heads of some grade 8 bolts on my integra. It took 4 hour of sawsall action to cut the 2 bolts in 2 places. I love Michigan and salt especially.