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crank angle sensor

Posted: Mon Jun 13, 2005 4:04 am
by Impregacy
does anybody know if these are interchangable. When i was trying to remove it from my ej22t it broke. So i'm wondering if i can use the one from an EJ18. They look similar except for the connection is set up different.

Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2005 2:29 am
by Legacy777
it's possible it'll work....what year ej18, and what do you mean the connection is setup different?

Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2005 4:49 pm
by Impregacy
It's a 93 ej18. for the ej18 the sensor has the connector right on it. but for the ej22t there's a lead comming off of the sensor and it connects at the back of the engine. I'm just using the harness from the ej18 so it has a shielded wire that can extent to the front of the ej22. Thanks

Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2005 5:42 pm
by Legacy777
hmm.....not sure. You could just try it and see if it works.

Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2005 11:22 pm
by vrg3
The sensor's the same, but the connector is different, as you've guessed. If you get the right wires to the right places, and keep most of it shielded, it'll work.

Posted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 4:00 am
by Impregacy
thank you. I think that info will help narrow down my problem. can i expect that the cam angle sensors are the same too?

I have been trying to do this engine swap into my car (an impregacy) and i used the technique that you guys sugggested. for setting up the engine management. Switching the computers by rearranging the pins and assembling new wires to create a harness suitable for running the ej22t. I added sheilded wires for the knock sensor, map sensor, and TPS, and the wires for the idle switch, wastegate solenoid, and pressure exchange solenoid, maf pin 5... ect. I used power from the FICD solenoid on the impreza's to power some of the new sensors over there since the FICD is not needed anymore.

I now have everything to the point where i think it's wired correctly but i get nothing. really the car is just a big useless peice of crap right now. When i tried firing it up today the fuel pump didn't even turn on and i got no spark. So i'm really just on my knees in prayer right now because i thought i could handle this but i'm in over my head and i feel like only God can help me now.
the fuel pump relay was for sure working with the last computer. so its beginning to look like the computer is not working. Is there a way i can check if the computer is functioning properly without the engine running? As for the ignition. i used the impreza's original hitachi ignitor along with the original 1.8 coil pack. I made no changes to the connectors and made sure the ignition switch and ground were in the right terminals at the ecu end of things. Also what do i do with the trouble code output wire off the ej22t's ecu connector?

Sorry to download my panic attack onto this page, but i feel like i've ruined a perfectly good car and it's my primary modus of transportation.

Posted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 4:26 am
by vrg3
Impregacy wrote:thank you. I think that info will help narrow down my problem. can i expect that the cam angle sensors are the same too?
Yes; it's the same deal with the cam angle sensor.
I have been trying to do this engine swap into my car (an impregacy)
Sigh...
I now have everything to the point where i think it's wired correctly but i get nothing. really the car is just a big useless peice of crap right now. When i tried firing it up today the fuel pump didn't even turn on and i got no spark.
You may be having a problem with the self-shutoff control.

Self-shutoff control is used to allow the ECU to keep the ignition relay on (keeping power to the engine management system) after you turn off the ignition. Typically it keeps running for a few seconds to clean things up in memory, ensure the fuel system is pressurized, and stuff like that.

On the first-generation Legacy, the ignition relay coil's hot side is connected to both the ECU's self-shutoff control pin and to an ignition-switched power source (the latter through an isolation diode). Generally, it's the ignition switch that powers the relay, and when the ECU sees that you've shut the switch off, it starts powering the relay itself.

On Imprezas and non-first-generation Legacies, it's different; the ignition relay is powered only by the ECU's self-shutoff control pin.

Unless you wire in a workaround for this, the Legacy ECU will not power up in your Impreza.

You have a couple of options for working around the problem:

1) The easy way. Take the wire that was going to the self-shutoff pin and instead connect it to an ignition-switched (NOT accessory-switched!) +12v source. This will power the ECU when the ignition switch is on, but will defeat self-shutoff control.

2) The right way. Get a power diode that can handle a few amps (like maybe the 1N5402 or 1N5404 that Radio Shack sells). Splice the cathode (the end with the stripe) into the self-shutoff control wire. Splice the anode (the other end) into an ignition-switched +12v source.
Is there a way i can check if the computer is functioning properly without the engine running?
The most basic check is to see if the Check Engine light comes on when you turn on the ignition.

You can also hook up my scan tool and talk to the ECU even if the engine's not running.
As for the ignition. i used the impreza's original hitachi ignitor along with the original 1.8 coil pack.
That should be fine. That's the same coil pack the EJ22T had from the factory anyhow, I think.
Also what do i do with the trouble code output wire off the ej22t's ecu connector?
Nothing. You don't need it.
Sorry to download my panic attack onto this page, but i feel like i've ruined a perfectly good car and it's my primary modus of transportation.
I know how that feels. Hopefully what I wrote above is the problem.

Posted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 3:11 pm
by Impregacy
vrg3 wrote: Yes; it's the same deal with the cam angle sensor.
one thing i was thinking about trying is checking the crank and cam angle sensors with a volt meter by putting the leads on the + and - wires coming off the sensors just to see if resistance changes as i rotate the crank by hand. Would this work?

I'll certainly check this self shut off control thing out right away though. How did you know that? I love you. Like a brother that is.

BTW which source would you recommend for the ignition 12v source?
The most basic check is to see if the Check Engine light comes on when you turn on the ignition.
so is it true that the check engine light will not be comming on unless i have the self shut off control problem in order?
I know how that feels. Hopefully what I wrote above is the problem.
Thank you soooooo much.

Posted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 5:42 pm
by vrg3
one thing i was thinking about trying is checking the crank and cam angle sensors with a volt meter by putting the leads on the + and - wires coming off the sensors just to see if resistance changes as i rotate the crank by hand. Would this work?
You want to measure the voltage, not the resistance. And turning by hand probably won't make a strong enough signal; you'll want to use the starter. Even then, you'll probably need an analog voltmeter (or ideally an oscilloscope) to see it.
I'll certainly check this self shut off control thing out right away though. How did you know that?
I have no life. :)
BTW which source would you recommend for the ignition 12v source?
The easiest way to go would probably be to use the wire going to the ECU's "ignition switch" pin. That wire oughtta be able to handle the current of a relay.
so is it true that the check engine light will not be comming on unless i have the self shut off control problem in order?
I believe that is correct.

Posted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 7:06 pm
by Impregacy
Praise the Lord it's running! I thank God first. A close second is Vikash. Thanks to your intimate knowledge of subaru cars -it runs!

If any of you are considering an impreza swap -here are some problems i encountered:

1. The radiator is not a perfect fit. You'll need to fabricate new mounts and you'll want to get hoses that fit better.

2. The throttle cable is a centimeter too short so you have to back the nuts out all the way and shim the mounting point.

3. The diode problem discussed on this thread.

4. Figuring out the MAF and TPS wires. It's tricky, so i just ran new sheilded wires directly through the firewall to the proper ecu terminals.

5. The clutch lever needed to be adjusted a little to get proper clamping.

That's it. It took about 4 days of hard labor. And about 3 runs to the parts stores.