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Sometimes when i go to start my car, i turn the key and nothing happens. The starter doesn't even crank. I can wait a litte bit or open the trunk, or do something that gets a little current flowing through the electrical system, and the car will start fine like nothing ever happend. This happens probably only about 25%-50% of the time i get in to start the car. I initially thought my battery was going bad, so i got a new one, but the problem continued. I was thinking this may be related to the grounding system. Anybody have any input, or familiar experiences? Thanks

Do you hear a click at the starter. Pay close attention, open the door.

More then likely it's the starter solenoid contacts.

Check the volts at the starter if you have at least 11 volts on the battery power side and 11 volts on the ignition power side then you may have a loose or going bad ignition switch. This is common for the switch to get lose over time.

this would make sence because when i put it in gear, and let it roll for a few inches, it easily starts.

ran into that problem when I first got my car, turns out the wiring bundle going through the driver's side wheel well contains the starter, and sun roof, as well as many other wires. they got corroded, so the car would start if I pushed the sunroof buttons and then tried starting the car,since those wires were touching and pushing the sunroof buttons started the current(it was also pretty smooth with the ladies to get in the car, push the sun roof and then start the car ), I presume that stuff to the trunk is part of the same bundle, its something you might wanna look into. and if that is the problem its a breeze to simply soder the wires back together and cover the wires so they won't corrode again.

my car, the 95 legacy, does the same thing. today ot took several turns of the key. finally started but mad a horrible grinding/rattling sound. difinately coming from around the starter. after about 5 miles the noise stopped.

X-flow wrote:Sometimes when i go to start my car, i turn the key and nothing happens. The starter doesn't even crank. I can wait a litte bit or open the trunk, or do something that gets a little current flowing through the electrical system, and the car will start fine like nothing ever happend. This happens probably only about 25%-50% of the time i get in to start the car. I initially thought my battery was going bad, so i got a new one, but the problem continued. I was thinking this may be related to the grounding system. Anybody have any input, or familiar experiences? Thanks

That's a starter right there. Get out your 160 for a new one and replace it.

i agree with manarius on gregs problem, i had the same thing, it was like the starter would occationaly keep spinning half way to work, nasty grinding sound, sometimes it would take a dozen key turns to actually start the car. swaping the starter did the trick for me.

as for x-flow, another thing to check is the starter relay, it's a little yellow box under the steering comumn. should be cheaper to replace then a starter, you might be able to find one at a junk yard

got a 70,000 mile starter today from the salvage yard for 40 dollars. figured it should be good since the one on my cars has nearly 250,000 on it.

put it in this afternoon. pretty easy job. car starts fine. took about an hour and a half from start to finish including cleaning up the garage. could probably do the next one in 30 min. not counting cleanup. i have no idea how rally service techs can change a trans in under 15 minutes.

X-flow wrote:Sometimes when i go to start my car, i turn the key and nothing happens. The starter doesn't even crank. I can wait a litte bit or open the trunk, or do something that gets a little current flowing through the electrical system, and the car will start fine like nothing ever happend. This happens probably only about 25%-50% of the time i get in to start the car. I initially thought my battery was going bad, so i got a new one, but the problem continued. I was thinking this may be related to the grounding system. Anybody have any input, or familiar experiences? Thanks

This is my problem NO CRANK so that would mean the starter isn't the problem? We had this problem 70k miles ago and replaced the $228 dealer fuel pump. I don't want to spend that again. This usually happens when it is 90F but last night at 40F it didn't start, then did the 3rd time turning the key. My lights don't dim so it isn't battery and the CEL light does come on. When it starts, it starts beautifully - is the car not wanting to reach the 400k? Only 300 miles to go and a smog test.

I do wonder if it is the ignition switch in that after 400k the key is worn and I did happen to turn over the key and it started last night. Hubby I think has the more worn key and that might explain why he has more problems, but for him only when it is hot and run awhile. Never a clear cut easy answer.

Do you hear a click from the engine bay when you try and start it? If so, it could be the starter solenoid contacts. If not, the ignition switch is probably a more likely culprit.

drudging up an old thread... it's been super hot here recently, and when it's really hot, my SS won't start, unless I fiddle around with the key, and adjust the in/out position... though the other day I parked facing the sun, and no matter what I did, theree was no starting it... it's finally cooling down a bit, so it may go back to working okay...
also during this time frame the sunroof will lose power, but not always...

I was thinking ignition switch initially...

in an early post, someone had an issue with corrosion on the wire bundle that contains the starter powere and sunroof power... my SS is from Cali and hasn't had a full iowa salty winter on it yet...

how much of a pain is it to replace the ignition switch?

I've read that if you replace it, you need to make sure you either replace all the pieces or something along those lines. I read it on here, I know one of the users has had issues with it. If you d/l the parts book from me, the dealership made some notes in it about if you replace the ignition switch, to also get other peices/clips/screws.

One thing you could try is disconnecting the black connector going to the ignition switch and run a jumper lead across the appropriate connections to see if you get good power. You could even wire up a push button start to test whether it's truly the ignition switch or not.