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Ok so my Ej 22t is in my impreza with a new Optima battery and Everything that needs to be is hooked up. I am running th e1.8 Impreza ECU with a perfect power from rallitek. It turns over like a friggin champ. (car Kinda shakes cause of sti motor mounts) But it won't start it wants too but it wont. I have taken the perfect power "out" from before the ecu but that didnt help.

I am running a parrallel fuel line mod and Walbro pump and there is no fuel going back to te tank. This is a problem I think, but doesnt explain why it wont start.

I have left all of the purge solenoids under the intake manifold unplugged, dont think this should be it but it might.

What else d oyou need to know and any suggestions are welcome. All fluids are full, I have tried different coilpacks. HELLLLLLLPPPPPPPP!!!!

did you check to see if fuel is getting to the rails?

First of all, plug all the solenoids back in. Sometimes grounds for other sensors are looped through them.

Second, does the EJ18 run the same cam and crank sensors as the 22T? I dont remember, but Id check.

ok forgot to mention that I installed a new timing belt before hand. Is htere and anyway to screw up timing i fI matched up timing marks where they were supposed to go. On the left bank, I did have to rotate the camshaft all the way around a couple of times to get it to line up with the timing marks.

I know on the crank of the ej22t there are two marks and one can be easily mistaken for a timing mark. I ran into that problem when i swapped engines. The car will turn over and try start but wont.

Wait -- there's no fuel return line?! So you're running as much pressure as the pump can put out, all the time?

Why doesn't that explain why the engine won't start? It seems to me like a perfect explanation. You're pouring waaay too much fuel into the engine, and as manifold pressure falls (as the engine starts to start), that amount is actually increasing.

It probably would. What is this parralell fuel mod?

And why would one do it?

The "parallel" fuel mod involves replumbing the fuel lines so that instead of fuel flowing from the filter to injector 4 to injector 2 to injector 1 to injector 3 to the FPR to the tank, it flows through each rail in parallel.

That is, instead of the stock configuration:
They go something like this:
The idea is that supposedly in stock form the injectors flow different amounts; injector 4 gets the highest pressure and injector 3 gets the least. The claim is that with this modification, the injectors flow more equally. I don't know how true it is.

And you can easily run lean on #4, right?

So why not leave it stock, and have the highest fuel pressure at the cylinder that usually runs dry?

when i had problems with my swap i checked fuel by taking the return line off where it connects by the fuel filter then i put the line in a pop can so as not to make a mess then switched ignition to on to see if fuel would go into the can. Then i checked spark by taking a plug out and grounding it to the block of course.

Once a new timing belt is intalled it takes many many rotations to make the white lines on the belt line up with all three timing marks again. (if that is what worried you) So the marks on the timing belt are really only for the initial installation. as long as the timing marks on the three gears are aligned once every few rotations then it should be right.

yea check the timing. i had the same problem. i had my timing WAAAY OFF. i felt like an idiot after that. if it is that, then this thread is a good one to read up on.
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... ght=timing

I do have a return line. No fule is coming out of it though. I think It might be my timing. I have the lines on the belt matched up with the marks on the camshaft, but apperently there are two marks on the crankshaft sprocket. Which one is the right one?

I think I just figured it out, I will let you know tomarrow.