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I bought a bolt on cone filter for my 1992 non turbo. It has an adapter plate that bolts onto the MAF, completely doing away with the airbox. Can I bolt it straight on and drive it, or, do I need to disconnect the battery or whatever to reset the MAF sensor?
Thanks in advance.

as long as the car isnt running, it shouldnt matter if you disconnect the battery or not.

It's not a matter of resetting the MAF sensor. . .it's resetting the ECU that's important.

Disconnecting the batter for about 10 minutes should do it. Sometimes, it's also a good idea to remove the ECU fuse while the battery is disconnected to ensure the power is totally removed from the computer.

Replace the fuse (if removed) and reconnect the battery, start it up AND LET IT JUST IDLE for about 5 minutes or so. This will let the MAF sensor send enough data to the ECU to make any necessary adjustments prior to the first drive with the new intake setup installed.

Yeah, letting it idle will help initialize fuel trims, but it will really take a couple hundred miles of varied driving for the ECU to learn to compensate for all the various different changes in flow at different engine speeds and loads.

Another thing about resetting the ECU - Shiv Pathak says to press the brake pedal after disconnecting the battery. He claims it ensures/speeds the draining of capacitors. I don't know if I believe it, but it can't hurt.

vrg3 wrote:Another thing about resetting the ECU - Shiv Pathak says to press the brake pedal after disconnecting the battery. He claims it ensures/speeds the draining of capacitors. I don't know if I believe it, but it can't hurt.

That or you can leave a door or trunk open so the light sucks any remaining juice out of the caps.

Mine has even more juice to drain down since I got that 1 farad cap for stereo.

What kit is this that you got?
And now that you know how to do it... What are your results and do you think this was a worth while modification?

/Looking for some performance increases myself.

I'll post a pic or two later, after I fab some sort of heatshield today...
A question though. As I said the cone filter is bolted onto an adapter plate and straight onto the MAF sensor. So, where the cone is now situated it is directly in front of the snorkel opening. There is still the small piece of snorkel pipe poking through the fender (Snorkel setup still in place)directly at the side of the filter, what I'd like to know is, will there be any cold air coming out of the snorkel tube? I mean, in original configuration, with the standard airbox etc, does the airbox 'suck' cold air through the snorkel, or does the snorkel 'blow' air, if any too?
I'm making a heatshield today, and am considering running some sort of pipe from the front bumper area to point at the filter, but, if any air actually comes out of the snorkel opening, then I won't bother.
What do you's think? It's not as if I can drive along with my hand on the opening or anything to find out....hahaha....
By the way, the filter and adapter are just cheapy ones off ebay from Cosmoracing in Canada. http://www.cosmoracing.com/productinfo. ... 14&pid=208
I didn't want to spend too much money on a 'good' intake only to be disappointed, but, I'm very happy with this filter. Nicely made, and only $29.99. Car sounds a lot better, especially at higher rpm's. Accellerates better and is more responsive, now, that I KNOW a simple filter setup works, I'm more willing to buy something better. At only $29.99, how could I go wrong?[/url] And, it took me less than 5 mins, to remove the airbox and install this, in my opinion, definately worth it.....
Don't forget the snorkel question.!!!
Thanks.

mrkingers wrote:what I'd like to know is, will there be any cold air coming out of the snorkel tube? I mean, in original configuration, with the standard airbox etc, does the airbox 'suck' cold air through the snorkel, or does the snorkel 'blow' air, if any too?

I'm no fluid-dynamicist, but I don't think you can expect any cold air to come out of the snorkel tube. It's not a ram air intake to begin with, and the convoluted tubing will make sure of that.

By the way, the filter and adapter are just cheapy ones off ebay from Cosmoracing in Canada.

Do you really trust that filter?

Most aftermarket filters are really really bad. They allow way too much particulate matter through, or they clog easily... some even come apart, sending small chunks of foam into the engine! If I were you, I'd use the Cosmo hardware but invest in a real name brand filter, like a K&N, right away.

Oh, and I know this doesn't help you so much now, but it may help others -- from the description on eBay it looks like the kit is just the filter, a MAF adapter, and some screws. I got 2 MAF adapters from Nino's Auto Accessories for like $15 shipped. A K&N filter to fit would be about $30 or $40, I'd guess. Some nuts and bolts from the hardware store for a couple of bucks could finish it off.

Ditch the snorkel and run a tube that gets air directly from the front of the car. Since inside the fender is behind a high pressure area... there might actually be a vacuum in there . Either get the filter INSIDE the fender liner or run a tube up to the hole in the engine bay. You'll need some sort of hole, though, in the front to assure positive pressure in there.

I plan on converting my one fog light cover into a vent. Then I'm running a tube up to and sealed against the factory airbox. Hopefully it will pressureize at highway speeds. Can you say really really fast turbo spool?

Be careful what you use for a tube. I had run aluminum tubing from the front bumper to the hole where the stock airbox used to go through the filter.

I was driving one night through lots and lots of rain. Going through a subdivision, the standing water was up to a foot or more. It filled the tube up and the weight pulled it through the fender liner and it was dragging on the ground. Of course it was a foot of water or so, so you may never have that problem.

You can see the inlet here:
http://homepage.mac.com/michaelkuhn/.Pi ... 12.JPG.jpg

Engine bay opening:
http://homepage.mac.com/michaelkuhn/.Pi ... 18.JPG.jpg

MK

I read a calculation that "ram air" filters, like the one on an SS or our many home brewed ones, produce 1/3rd of 1 hp @ 90 mph. yay! maybe if you have a giant stack, like a hood creating a high pressure area (a la wrx) or a collandar with a pipe in the bottom going to your intake (ghetto!) it will do more, but even if it doubles effectiveness, its still less than 1 hp.

To boot, think about all the wierd things water can do when it is exposed to pressure and wind changes created by a car moving at 65 mph. At WOT, engines suck. I have a cone filter with a BOX OVER IT that has sucked up water once or twice. There's a lot of enginerring going on there folks.

To recap: ram air doesnt do anything at all, and be super careful where you route that cold air intake.

Putting a tube in the fender is by no means any sort of 'ram air.' It's just a means to get cooler air into the engine than the hot air that's under the hood.

MK

Hmmm... some pretty harsh words for ram air. Well take the heat of your engine bay - ambient and divide out the degree to horse ratio and see what you get. And try having your engine trying to suck out of a vacuum and tell me what your calculator tells you. Fresh cold air is what it is for. And that 1/3 of a horse must have really helped my friends car that installed a ram air and dropped 2 tenths in the quarter to where he is neck and neck with my car now (almost ).

getting rid of the stock setup for something a little more straight through and pulls from outside the engine bay will help, i have such a setup myself. But trying to increase pressure by using the air passing by the car is not effective. And sucking water into your engine is just plain bad.

Really, do what you want though.

mk750 wrote:
You can see the inlet here:
http://homepage.mac.com/michaelkuhn/.Pi ... 12.JPG.jpg

Engine bay opening:
http://homepage.mac.com/michaelkuhn/.Pi ... 18.JPG.jpg

MK

Nice fabrication of the heat shield. That looks really good!

I wouldn't mind putting a heat sheild around a cone filter and opening up a spot on the hood. You've seen those hood vents on the 2.5 RS imprezza? It would lose a little of the sleeper look, but I bet it could really get some nice air from outside, right? It just wouldn't be funnelled as well.

If you look in the legacy gallery 3, the red wagon on the top right has what I'm talking about. They are also on the hoods on the group buy.

http://membres.lycos.fr/subaruleg/

-Ryan

I dunno about the vents. but some of those girls can feel free to stop by legacy any time

MK

My intake is about 8 in to the left of MK750's and runs a hose that goes into the stock air box with a K&N. It's a NACA duct on the side of the bumper (NACA duct looks like the side door-area intake on the Lamborghini Countach). I've driven through almost everything and never inhaled any water in any way I'd notice. If anything the car seems to make more power in the rain (cooler air temp? or is it just that I can keep the tires spinning like a CVT to keep the power up?).

Steve

I started this topic....I'm attaching a pic of my setup now...No-one laugh.!
Read back for the roots of the filter, the metal cost me $2.87 at LOWES....
I'm happy with it as is, by no means does it look sweet, but seems to be doing it's job.
As far as vrg3's comments go, a K&N has already been installed, and thanks for the advice.!
I had already honeycombed drilled my airbox before I fitted this filter, so I had a 'bit' of sound from the car. However, since I fitted this filter, it sounds wayyyy sweet. But, not at low RPM's....Certainally, under accelleration up to higher rpm's the 'sound' kicks in, especially in 3rd, and flooring it. Seems to respond better, but, only at the higher rpm's. Sounds like a normal family car around town.....
The so called 'heatshield' is an attempt at least, but, since I'm in Alaska, I don't think cold air will be an issue....
Heres a pic..http://public.fotki.com/mrkingers/soob/soobie_033.html
You's can click next on that Fotki site to see all the pics....
BTW, the Soob, is a 92, non turbo 2.2L H4 AWD.......

What's wrong with it, the way you described it I thought it would look like poo.

Looks great, I don't see what the fuss was about

MK

Yeah, nice work.

ditto, nice work on the shield

looks damn good.

If you wanted to see ugly, imagine this: a particle board/ cone filter sandwich for the seal and connection to the MAS, with a box made out of plastic cardboard held together with screws, covered in insulating foam, covered in masking tape. From the end stick a 1.5 inch PVC valve and a plastic hose.

Thats my set up. It's an embarassment to look at, but it sounds the same as stock, retains tq, and has the same top end as an open cone from what i can tell. I guess i could retool the design to make it pretty, but ehhhhhh....

that works and looks good!
cheers