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Pistons, long block, and oil pan blabbing

Posted: Sat Aug 13, 2005 5:40 am
by Legacy777
I will start off by saying that Doug's dvd of putting pistons in makes it look much easier. I wouldn't say it's difficult, but it took me nearly 2 hours to put the rings on, and put the pistons in.

One thing I noticed was that the lower oil control ring was at a different spot on the old pistons compared to what the book said. I'm not sure why, but I put it how the book said.

Also, the right side pistons have the hook for the upper oil control ring on the opposite side. So basically you have to turn the piston up side down compared to what the book says. I don't recall if Doug mentioned this in his DVD.

The damn ring compressor cut my finger something good. So between that, my hands being all oily, it was definitely an adventure.

I should be putting the heads on tomorrow, and pretty much finish up the long block, minus the timing belt, since I still need that one bolt I broke.

I'm hoping to pull the current motor next weekend if I can get some help. We'll see.

Posted: Sat Aug 13, 2005 9:56 am
by ballitch
sounds cool man.........i thought that the pistons only went one way, and that you couldnt turn them 180 degrees.....well thats what haynes said.....but you know how that goes.



~Josh~

Posted: Sat Aug 13, 2005 5:14 pm
by Legacy777
The pistons do only go in one way. There is a left & right side piston. What I was mainly talking about is what the factory manual shows for installing rings and the orientation.

You see the "R" mark on the piston & the upper oil ring rail and the bend over pawl.
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... iagram.pdf

For the Left pistons, everything matches the picture. For the right pistons, you had to rotate the "R" mark to the bottom to orient the bend over pawl thing correctly.

Posted: Sat Aug 13, 2005 8:05 pm
by douglas vincent
Yeah, you have to spin one set of pistons 180 degrees or something to get the oil pawl hole in the right spot. I did mention it in the DVD but you got the unedited one so there was ALOT to watch.

I hope you have better luck than me! I am going to pull the motor again today and take the heads off and see what I did wrong.

Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2005 5:17 am
by Legacy777
Yeah, I'm hoping I didn't fuck anything up. There's a few things I could have done better, like have the crank turned/polished, and I'm still iffy about the pistons and the bore size being slightly over spec. Other thing I hope I don't have issues with is silicone getting in the oil passages when I sealed the block. When I did it the first time, it looked ok. There was a very small amount. When I resealed it again, I paid extra attention with it. Other then that, it should be alright.

I got the heads, and oil pan on, so the long block is pretty much done. I had some issues with fitment of the oil pan. It was a little off, and I believe is pressing against the pickup. I should've dry fit it, but oh well. I tweaked the pickup a little, and it should be alright. My only concern is with vibration and it rubbing, however I'm not really sure where it's rubbing.

Here's pics of today's exploits
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... s/ej22t/14

Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2005 11:16 pm
by Legacy777
Freaking oil pan! I wanted to destroy that thing. I decided to take it back off. I tried to determine where it was hitting. I couldn't really get any pliers in there to bend things. I think it was maybe hitting the bottom baffle a little, (maybe not) but the top one is what was keeping it from sitting properly. After a bit of swearing it fit's and doesn't rub.

There's a few pics of the oil pan in here
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... s/ej22t/15