legacycentral bbs

decided to jump from my thread in the Electrical collumn to a more appropriate forum.

trying to verify timing marks. things look to be bad. pulled the radiator fans. the two serpentine belts and the side pully coveres (The ones that cover the Cam pullies). now need to pull the crank pully, chiltons manual describes the proceedure as

1) loosed bolt
2) remove bold
3) remove crank pully.

so.... how do I stop the crank from spinning? Remembered reading something about a flyweel access plate. but doesnt seem to be one on my automatic tranks (no flywheel, Duh!) so how do I stop the crank from turning?

Thanks!

Put it in gear and have someone hold the brake?

to take it off what we do at the shop is we put the socket+ratchet/breaker bar thing on the bolt, rest the handle of the bar on the drivers side frame rail area, and you just bump the key (so the starter engages briefly and it will back the bolt out (make sure someone is hold the bar or it is firmly in place. to get it back on is a little more difficult, you need a special 4-prong tool to put it back on. if you look at the pulley you'll see 4 holes drilled in it, the tools prongs fit in those holes and keep it from moving while you tighten down the bolt. so you either have to make one or borrow one from somebody. if the tool sounds a little confusing i can get a picture of one for you...... good luck

http://www.thawa.net/gallery/EJ22ESwap/spanner
http://www.thawa.net/gallery/EJ22ESwap/spnr_frnt

Like skid said, you can just use a long bar extension on the wrench, let the bar sit on something sturdy on the right side of the engine (driver's side, and I usually have it long enough where it rests on the floor), and just crank it for as short of a time as you can. That should break it loose.

To retighten it, take the rubber cover off the bellhousing, and turn the crank until you see a hole in the torque convertor. Stick something long and hard ( ) in that hole and turn it until the object hits hits the bellhousing. Then tighten it down. Use some balls when you do (you shouldn't need to worry about the bolt, it's pretty beefy), but not so tight that you can't get it back out.

Dont have a breaker bar so slid a small section of pipe over my 3/8 drive ratchet. put everything in place and bumped the starter.

Took the ratches nipple (Dont know what to call the peice of the ratchet you put the Sockets on. Male peice on ratchet that fits in the matching hole on socket) off clean.

Going to shucks as soon as they open for a new ratchet and a breaker bar.

bit of humor id thougt Id share.

Redlined wrote:Took the ratches nipple (Dont know what to call the peice of the ratchet you put the Sockets on. Male peice on ratchet that fits in the matching hole on socket) off clean.

Going to shucks as soon as they open for a new ratchet and a breaker bar.

bit of humor id thougt Id share.

Solution: GET A BIGGER RATCHET!

Either that or use a wrench.

ok so the bolt is Out. Boy was that sucker in there tight.

Next mountain. The crank pully. its flush against the (plastic) Timing belt covers so no way to pry it. or tap it with a hammer.

Is there a way to get this thing off without having to rent (or worse, buy) a puller?

Pull the pin out from the center and it should come right out with a bit of tugging.

Checked out the pully, didnt see anything that looked like a pin.

Where is it? Ceneter of the pully? on the side? How big is it?

Thanks!

I don't know what pin you're talking about either Manarius...

Dave, try bopping the pulley on all sides very lightly with a rubber hammer or something, alternating between top-bottom, left-right. You should work it loose after a few minutes.

the pulley comes right off, it's not pressed on. grab ahold and PULL
you won't break it.

I don't think they meant "pin" I think they might have meant "key" there is a little square "key" in the keyway of that pully that keeps the pully from spinning on the crank. that should not, however, be holding the pully on.

tapped the pully from side to side gently for several minutes. taking a couple time outs to clean stuff under the hood so my mind didnt copletely melt.

If I hold the edges and twist it moves a touch.

Ill try something a little more forward (Read, brute stregnth) tonight.

Thanks to everyone for imput!

any luck? watch out for radiator fins when it does come loose (btw - if u thought that one was on tight - take off the cambelt pulley there :S)

Yeah. Its been a comedy of errors.

Went out the next day with a bit of pipe and strong armed it off. wasnt all that hard. (and I wrapped a towl around the pully to protect the radiator.

Then after spending considerable time trying to recompress the belt tensioner (and then putting the allen wrench in the wrong way to hold it in) I tried to put the new belt on and the marks didnt line up....

Gonna spend some more time with it tomorrow.

keep your fingers crossed!

despite what they say - when you putting that bolt back on - do it up REALLY tight with some locktite

you do NOT want that sunnavabitch coming loose.

Otherwise it will work loose - then chew up the front of your crank and the keyway. which is NOT a good idea

I thought ppl were nutz saying that - but now - the next time i have to take that pully off - i have to replace crank.

Boy! you realy need 5 hands to put one of those belts in!

Bit of advise boys and girls, you do a timing belt swap have a friend or two handy.

Got the belt in. Belt marks kinda line up. Crank and Cam pullys dead on the mark.

Fired up on the second crank. Seems to run a touch sloppy though. took off the negative wire from the battery to let the comp reset. Ill go out this afternoon and see if it runs better

visegrips can also function as a second pair of hands.

Another thing to watch - is (not sure bout you twin-cam guys) but on the quad cams, one of the cams is sitting on the tip of the cam lobe, so if you move the cam slightly - Ziiiiiing and there goes some skin.

ok. all back together and running good. Kinda leary of some of the stuff I found. seems the engine has had some *cough* less than gentle mechanics work on her.

Now. still need to sinch down the crank pully good and tight. Called up the local subaru dealer, was kicked back and forth from the service department to parts a few times and finally was told that the pully jig was available only to Subaru certifired technition, and not the general public.

Well Im sure as <bleep> not going to pay some <bleep> $35 an hour to tighten my crank pully for me, and probably mess up the job.

where can I get (read buy, beg, borrow, steal, NOT make. I only have basic hand tools) one of those jigs?

I think they just wanted you to come into the stealership and have work done by them, and since they're now aware you can do it yourself, they're somehow thinking that will stonewall you, or something. This is why people hate buying cars, and hate car dealerships.
Are there any Subaru specialty shops in your area? I guess call around, and see who's nice enough to let you come in and use their tools for a minute or two? What about an auto parts store with parts rentals? Could they help?

5th gear, handbrake on. The crank wont go anywhere.

5th gear, handbrake on. The crank wont go anywhere.

small problem. Its a 4EAT (read, automatic transmition). What does that stand for anywho? 4 speed Electronic Automatic Transmition?

Still no luck with the Crank Jig. Cant find any Subee specialty shops in the area.

Common you Northwesterners! Anyone in Vancouver/Portland know where I can get one?

isnt there a hole in the bellhousing on the 4EAT trannys that you can stick a bar thru to lock flywheel?

Yeah....stick a freaking breaker bar or big screwdriver in the bell housing opening to catch the flex plate. Done!