legacycentral bbs

So I did all the blasted work to my motor replacing the headgaskets and such. When we were putting the right head gasket in, by itself itdidnt fit flush on the block. I was kinda worried but thought nothing of it. Remember also My dad said dont take the heads in its a waste of time and youle blow your motor. That and I ran out of money to do so.

SO last night It is fully together and looks better than ever. I start it and it sounds mean an loppy with the new cams. Then the idle shoots up to 2000rpm and the garage starts filling with white smoke. My dad is like "its just burning off the stuff that got in when we took it apart." then we look and coolant is shooting out between the rightside head and block. All signs point to warped.

How easy is it to warp these heads? Block? Can they be machined to work again?

So if it can, I am just gonna build this motor. I am gonna take it in to refresh the heads(milled, 3 angle valve job) then I am gonna build up the block (maybe new pistons, but mine look good so far) new rings, get the crankshaft knifed/balanced.

What other suggestions would you say if I do have to do a full tear down? What about raising the compression to 8.3-8.5:1? Would that gain me anything seeing as hhow It will probably never push more than 20psi? Speaking of which, will a 16G support 20 psi?

Thanks guys, and get sideways in your car for me, since I cant.

Doh! It is more likely warped heads than a warped block. If they aren't too bad, you can have them milled. Sometimes lessons are learned the hardway. You should always measure your heads and your deck for warpage whenever you have them apart.

Don't bother bumping your CR. And a 20G can push all the air you could ever dream of on your engine...

What will a 16G push? I want fast spool for auto cross and good lowend. But my td04 now spools stupd fast and I am pretty sure its affecting gas milage.

Can both be milled? See the headgasket didnt sit flat on the block before we ever put the head on. I just figured it got bent a little in shipping.

Yeah lessons are learned the hard way.

if I do have the crank machined/balanced/knived, should I have something done to the bearings?

bmxpunk wrote:if I do have the crank machined/balanced/knived, should I have something done to the bearings?

If the engine has alot of miles, replace them, better safe than sorry.

use OEM if you can afford it. the EJ22T block is a built beast on the bottom end and the OEM stuff is the best you can put in it.

it has 130,000 miles. what all can be magna fluxed? the motor had one ower before me. she kept it in pretty good shape.

magna-fluxxing is a process to check and make sure that nothing is cracked. Any of your parts can be fluxed for inspection. That should be done to your crank and all your rods before they even start work on them.

Then have the rods weight matched. After that, then you can have the crank dynamically balanced along with the rods. Be sure to provide them with your flywheel as well. It is part of the balancing process...

Ok will check into that stuff too matt. THanks


got some other estimates:
3-agle valve job for 4 cylinders $99
Resurface head $52 per head
resurface block $75
hone cylinders $18 per cylinder
cleaning and magnafluxing included

That is no where near as bad as I thought it would be. May even have to go wit hbigger valves. Subaruparts.com gave me an estimate of a full gasket kit, waterpump, thermostat, and piston rings for $420. Things are looking pretty good

i dont think its your heads, i have never seen a head warp on any of the ej22t motors. i think you should check your pistons, what you siad about the white smoke has happend to me lots of times.

if you got to change pistons only use factory subaru stuff, bmxpunk i just want to let you no something i have never got anyone to clean mill boer or touch my motor, fix what needs to be fixed and put it all back together with factory subaru stuff.

Yeah I am going to use all Subaru stuff, but I will more than likely have to have the block and heads milled. I am going to have them hone the cylinders because two of them (1&2) have some rough spots in them. When I put it together this time I want to be able to just leave it. The only engine work I wanna do for the next year (after this is done) is add a 16G and change the oil.

Hey matt, do I need to replace the crank bearings? while I at it

It is cheap insurance. Plus, anything at or above 100k should have them done just on principal. Build it to last, I say...

Hey matt, I was going through the "rallitek Chip" thread on nabisco and you said that my car can have the redline adjusted? How do I go about this? I might as well get it done because the new cams are going to work higher in the rpm range and if I am getting all of the work done for head flow and lightening/balancing of the running gear. That would help alot.

Make sure you have the headgasket on right, I had that problem with mine. When i started it up, it put coolant everywhere. I think i had it backwards or something, i can't remember. But I had to take the head back off and turn it around.

I just spoke with a subaru tech and he mentioned that and he showed me teh toque spces anthey were different from what i had so we are going to try retorquing.

Well,
Al, who ran Torque Chip, closed up shop and left the country, so noone that I know of is currently adjusting the redline. I know of one for sale. I can see what he wants for it if you want...

Yes please matt. what else does it do? am I gonna have to wire it in?

$125 + freight. You don't have to wire a thing. It is altered internally. You just plug it in and go go gadget redline...

Oh wait, you are in Casper. You could come get it if you wanna see teh Ghetto Garage...

HEy matt you have a PM. I am going through colorado today and on sunday or monday.

Head gasket are on their way, and the heads are on their way OFF my car and to the machine shop!!!!!

Here are some pics im hosting for bmxpunk:
engine bay:

his ride while his car is down: hahahaha

bushings?

heads:

I took the heads in today. Estimate: $350 for a resurface and a valve job. Forgot to mention cleaning up behind the vlave seats.

Try some different machine shops. I never paid more that $160.

Ok so the heads are done !!!!! I took in the new valve seal today and the guy told me they are dine and jsut need to be assembled. 1 week ahead of schedule!!!!! They look great. I didnt see my vavles though.

Final price----$230

I get to pick them up on monday!!!!! START OVER.

I was trying to clean up the engine bay and I was wondering, Are the chances pretty high that I will burn up all of my wiring if i run my harness between the waterpipe and the block?

My next question is: Which MAF has the larger range and is it worth swapping into my car? I had a Jecs sensor from the 1.8L IMpreza and I was getting really close to 5volts at 8psi? THe legacy turbo is quite a bit better, but I would really like something wit ha bgger range for more safety and to see if that will fix my "bucking" Issues. I also installed a new 3bar MAP sensor for my perfect power to see if that helps.

IT WORKS AGAIN!!!!

And it is smooth!!!
My bucking seems to be gone!!! but she is running really rich every where. My friend and I messed wit hthe perfect power until 3am trying to lean it out and make some power. By lean I mean going from like a boggy 8.?:1 or 9:1 AFR to something more power producing but safe. And the few runs that I have done.... Holy cow!!! on 7or 8 psi my car walks away form my friends Crx (170hp and under 2000lbs).

The cams definately help pull hard up top.

Now I just need to get the screw in my tire fixed

That's great, It's always fun to get your toy back. I noticed the power hits pretty hard in my car when the cams get into their curve.

What all did you have done to the heads?