legacycentral bbs

The testing isn't going so hot on my clutch disengagement issue. I need three things tested on a manual trans. turbo legacy, shouldn't matter whether it's a 91 or 92-94, however it'd be nice if I could get a test on each.

I know....you're saying..."I'd like to help, but I'm lazy"....well, tell me what sort of compensation you'd like to get unlazy.

There's four things I would like to find out. Two are relatively easy.

I would like to know how much back and forth play (movement) is in the clutch fork when you press the clutch slave cylinder push rod back into the slave cylinder. (You'll need to remove the spring on the clutch fork) If you can take a measurement around the area the spring hooks into the fork, that'd be great. I used a nail, held it up against the engine/trans, then used a sharpe to mark the position of the clutch fork at the two most extremes, and then measured the marks.

The second thing I would like to know is the distance the clutch fork travels from when the clutch pedal is fully out, to when it's fully depressed. Again, try and measure the travel around where the spring hooks into the clutch fork.

The third thing I would like to know is, how much clearance, if any is between the back of the throw out bearing and the raised lip just after where the throw out bearing rides on. You'll need to remove the rubber boot to see down in the hole. If you take a bright shop light or flashlight, and have someone engage/disengage the clutch, you should be able to see.

Here are some pictures of the transmission snout and where the lip is.
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... s/ej22t/28

Lastly, I'm curious what your clutch pedal feel is like. Do you have slop at the top of the pedal, does it feel firm and consistent the entire stroke, or does the first inch or so feel like it wants to snap forward and then the resistance comes on?


Like I said, I really would like to find this info out from some other turbo legacy owners. With it, I should be able to say with good confidence whether my problem is due an oddity on my car or my trans swap, that a component in my clutch actuation system is bad, or if the tranquil sleeve is not right.

Thanks for any help, and I'm serious about the compensation thing. I need this info.

How soon? I won't have my tranny out for a week or so...

Soon as possible, but if I get no one else to get the info, and you get a chance in a week or so when you pull your tranny, then that's fine. This project is going on 7 months since I got the motor....another week isn't going to kill me....however it might feel like it.

One other thing I thought of....which may just be something some of you know.

If you happen to have the car on jack stands........When your clutch pedal is fully depressed, transmission in 1st gear, and engine running......do the wheels spin at all?

That was one thing I tried today. I jacked up the car, had my landlord press the clutch as far as it would go (up against the sleeve's collar) and I turned the engine over by hand. The tires still turned a little.

I tried this test yesterday with the car on the ground, and it didn't move, however I'm not sure how much the clutch is supposed to drag on the flywheel & pressure plate.

Wheels won't spin in first, engine running.

If the clutch is dragging on the flywheel, something isn't right.

The fourth thing is relative to pressure plate force.

My Exedy Stage1 plate is nice, firm, and consistent. Significantly stiffer than stock.

ACT clutches tend to feel similar to brake pedals.

At any rate, using the hydro clutch, it should be slightly sloppy when there is no or little resistance on the clutch fork, and then fairly consistent through the travel of the clutch pedal.

Legacy777 wrote:
Lastly, I'm curious what your clutch pedal feel is like. Do you have slop at the top of the pedal, does it feel firm and consistent the entire stroke, or does the first inch or so feel like it wants to snap forward and then the resistance comes on?

Mine has a bit of play up top, around an inch seems about right. If I slip it up there it will snap out. Once I get into the meat it is extremely firm the rest of the way. Spec stage 1 w/ACT streetlite flywheel.

I might be able to help you.

BAC5.2 wrote:Wheels won't spin in first, engine running.

If the clutch is dragging on the flywheel, something isn't right.

Is this with the car jacked up?

If so, then that's good indication for me that my clutch is not disengaging all the way.

Thanks for the comments guys.

Josh - Yea, car off the ground the wheels should NOT spin.

Josh, why don't you just get rid of the TSK? Is your transmission snout worn out of spec?

BAC5.2 wrote:Josh - Yea, car off the ground the wheels should NOT spin.

Thanks Phil!!

I appreciate it.

THAWA wrote:Josh, why don't you just get rid of the TSK? Is your transmission snout worn out of spec?

There's a little bit of wear on the snout. I don't know if it's out of spec. I did get some clutch shudder, however talking with Dale @ Teague's auto, he said the 02 wrx PP was the cause of clutch shudder on the WRX. I just so happen to have a WRX clutch & PP.

In theory the TSK sleeve is a good idea. SS is a better wear surface then aluminum. However I'm beginning to question whether he's installed this on a vehicle in his shop. I think he said the ones installed on the tlegacies were done by a trans shop. So I don't know.

Bottom line is that I don't want to call foul unless I'm absolutely positive, and have good proof. That's the engineer in me

Regardless, the TSK will be coming out. I want to confirm clutch fork travel on a WRX, but from what Phil said above, I'd say the clutch is not fully disengaging.

The design of the pull style clutch and the sleeve don't jive. To make things work, he needs to move the collar up onto the non-wear surface so full clutch travel can be achieved.

Well I've good news and bad news. I was able to look at a friend's turbo forestor. Same transmission/clutch setup. On his car, there was about 1/4" of room left on the end of the transmission snout. So I would venture to say the sleeve would work on his car. The WRX's are probably going to be the exact same. Another test I did was to jack his car up, and see if the wheels turn with the clutch fully disengaged. They don't.

So that leaves me with some unknown problem. In an effort to actually get the car running, I'm just going to have to pull the motor, and put the stock throw out bearing back in. Unless I see something completely screwed up on my install, the only thing I can thing of that might be causing this problem is the fact I'm using a WRX clutch/pp/flywheel on a turbo legacy, that the 91 transmission I have doesn't have the extra clearance needed.....I don't know....

Well I pulled the tranquil throw out bearing & sleeve out. Clutch works fine.

I'd love to find a 91 turbo legacy and see if how much clearance it has. But whatever.....