legacycentral bbs

where is the wire that connects to it. is it easy to do. i'm gonna see if that will make my awd work

Doing a duty solenoid C replacement is not for the light hearted. It's an expensive job, and isn't that simple. I don't believe that it's just an unplugged wire making your AWD not work. Usually either the entire solenoid is bad or the clutch packs are burned up.

Manarius is right.

I wont make any assumptions about your mechanical skills (I've seen many girls that can turn a wrench just fine), but I will provide this pic to give you an idea whats involved.

The C-sol is the little round thing with the green wire...



Gary

i know someone that just took one to the junk yard and it worked fine. could i just swap the case that holds cluched/solonoid.

Yeah, I think you could swap the whole tail housing, though the clutch assembly just slides out and the C-sol is only two bolts.

Another note, you can do the job with the trans in the car.

Gary

is their any difference between 90 and 91. the other car i think is a 91

No, there shouldn't be.

I just finished installing a new Duty C - did it in the car.

It wasn't too bad, pretty straight forward. Cleaning the mating surface was a bugger - but an olfa blade and gasket scraper worked great.

One thing I found was that when I started it for the first time the power light flashed again - just like usual. (Insert swear word here.) I then went through all the connections which were fine - still had flashing power light on start up. Pulled the negative cable - still flashing... (felt very crappy at this point.)

I pulled the code procedure from Josh's site and ran the procedure - it just started blinking quickly and didn't stop - that meant it was OK... Ran the procedure for previous codes - found some, then did current procedure and it showed good.

Started it several times since then - and it's been working fine. Not sure if it was the code procedure that reset the computer - I highly recommend doing it if you do swap duty c solenoids.

Hopefully is stays fixed - car is finally working AWESOME! If all goes well I'll get the fluid flushed and the pan gasket done (to clean the magnet and get the gunk out.)

Rabin

Way to go! +50 points to the girl team!

Do you know if your awd works now?

I think you're mis-reading the posts...

I was just commenting on my experiences having just come in from my garage from just finishing the job. In my case the AWD works awesome. No codes and the car is an absolute blast in the snow and ice we have up here. (I'll be upgrading exhaust, desnorkify it, fixing ABS, and likely do a little body work if she contiues to run as good as it is right now.)

If subiegirl has any questions I'm happy to respond as it's still nice and fresh my memory.

Still very much a guy though... Does that mean I lose my 50 points?

Rabin

i got no power to rear at all. liftted wheels off the ground and nothing to the rear. if you think the solonoid will fix my problem then where can i get one and how much.

Does the power light flash at all on start up? (16 or so times)

If no then I'd say the problem is the clutch pack and not the solenoid.

In my case, if the light flashed at start up I'd have binding on turns, or FWD only (rarely). If it didn't flash it was OK.

This morning it flashed and I had binding again I tried two more times and no flashes and no binding. Not sure if it's a flakey connection or what - but the only connection I haven't cleaned and checked is where the harness goes into the tranny. It looks nasty and I have no idea if I can even do anything with it.

I was going to do a fluid flush and hopefully that helps. In the mean time I put strong magnets on the pan to help get crap out of the oil so that when I pull the pan I can clean it all out of the inside.

Rabin

their is no light flashing. no binding. it acts just like a fwd car

subaru girl wrote:their is no light flashing. no binding. it acts just like a fwd car

Clutch packs. You'd get a code if it was the solenoid.

where can i buy them

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=23949

There's some good info in this post - just search the entire driveline section with key words and your bound to find great info.

The rear output shaft slides right out and has clutch disks inside a housing that I assume are the disks you need to replace (Confirm with someone who has an FSM.

They'd be super easy to replace if they are - no harder than doing the duty c.

Rabin

is this what i would need. and how many would i need.

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merch ... ode=23118A

I ordered the manual for our tranny from this place. Should be getting it in the next couple of days. I'll let you know if it has good info. I also emailed them asking the same question and this was their reply:

This is what the catalog says but you must verify Qty & thickness.

Friction clutch (inner teeth)
Transfer Clutch .071” (24 T) . . . . . . ..Qty. .6 . . .
91-Up . . . . .23118A . . . . .31588-AA060
Transfer Clutch .079” (24 T) . . . . . . . Qty. .5 . . .
87-93 . . . . . .23118 . . . . .31588-AA020

Steel plates (outer teeth)
Transfer Clutch .071” (30 T) . . . . .Qty 5 . . .
87-93 . . . . . .23138 . . . . .31589-AA030
Transfer Clutch .063” (30 T) . . . Qty .4-6 . .
90-98 . . . . .23138A . . . .31589-AA041

is there anyone that has got new clutches and knows how many are needed

http://www.libertysubaru.com/en_US/
i just found this and maybe they have the clutches

i just measured my tires. the front is about a 1/2-3/4 inch taller than the rear. they are same size but different brands. is that enough to fry the clutches?

You need to measure the circumference of the tire with it loaded.

The easiest way to do this is to take a string, lay it in front of the tire, drive over it, then wrap it around the tire, bring the bottom end up and then mark where it meets the other end of the string. Measure that distance, and that is your circumference. Do that for all four tires. The difference in circumference should not exceed 1/4" I believe.

i went to the subaru dealer, the told me all the parts,clutches solonoid seals etc. would cost $315.

then they said something had to be pressed out and they had to use a micrometer to make sure everything was strait. they said it would take 3-4 hours and cost $150-200 for labor. thats if i pull the tail housing and take just that in. does this sound right?

The labor rate they quoted is $50 an hour, which seems normal, however 3-4 hours to put the clutches back on and stuff seems pretty steep. They are probably quoting book time and charging you a standard amount.

It'd take a competent mechanic probably an hour or so to do the work.

one more question (i think). when lowering the rear of the trans down to get the tail housing off, do i have to unhook anything like the shifter.