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After finally getting this pin out (thanks to searching and Home Depot)



And removing the center diff; I noticed some crafty vandal had inscribed their initials on it.



So what the hell does "AK" stand for?
It looks etched by hand, did the manufacturer do this?

I have no idea what the AK stands for, but that pin that you pointed to is one of the main reasons why doing shifter bushings on Subarus is such a pain in the balls...

That thing isn't that bad. You just need the right set of tools.

When in doubt....make your own tools (towards the bottom)
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... intcustom/

subyluvr2212 wrote:I have no idea what the AK stands for, but that pin that you pointed to is one of the main reasons why doing shifter bushings on Subarus is such a pain in the balls...

Before I install the trans I plan to replace the whole shifter deal with WRX or shorter. Your little writeup was helpful. As seen here:
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... t=roll+pin

After messing with some sockets and getting mad, I went and bought a punch set. Took it right out, as I'd imagine Josh's tools would too.

Not sure, I don't think mine says anything....

Did you blow your center diff?

I wouldn't open the case any further unless you know what you are doing and have done it before. Putting it back together isn't as easy as it looks. Lots of measurements to get messed up.

Josh - What did you do custom with that knuckle? The one I have is one-piece...

The pin is a pain, because it's a double roll pin. A roll pin (3/8 same as axle pins), inside a larger roll pin (5/8). You can't punch them both out at once.

It's not a pain if you have done it before.

Believe me, it's a lot harder to do it in the car...

And as big a pain as the pins can be, now imagine that once you hammer those pins out, the boss refuses to come off the shift rod. Then you have to cut it off... My XT is 18 years old after all...

Okay, sorry, didn't mean to hijack your thread addict...

Center diff could be blown, I don't know. I've never driven it. I got it with a parts SS, it was in the trunk. SS has 198K on it and a couple used clutches in back too, so the trans probably saw some action. The oil had already been drained. The magnet was dirty, but only had one very small metal piece on it.

What sort of measurements get messed up by opening the case?
I was planning on keeping as much in place as possible. I wanted to open it enough to look for missing teeth. I might replace the gaskets too, since the outside was coated in grease/grime.
Or are you referring to opening the center diff? I don't plan on doing that.

No worries about discussing the pins. I started it, so it's a dual topic thread.

A) Don't use a factory gasket. They are junk. Permatex Gray Gasket Seal stuff. It's the best!

B) To be able to remove teeth from the transmission, you'll have to remove the shafts from the case. Simple alignment comes into play with this, there are several things that must properly line up before putting the case back together.

C) I wouldn't open the center diff either, lol.

The outside of the transmission is always greasy and grimy. Every blown CV boot, all road debris, everything hits that thing. Plus, transmissions use oil, not grease, so you know it wasn't leaking.

But if it's a spare, go ahead and give it a go! It's a cool thing to do .

I've gotten mine out from in the car......Like I mentioned, the tools I made make things easier.

Phil,

The joint in the pic is the same as you have. I ground down the rivot so the joint could come apart. I then installed different bushings/spacers because the stock ones suck, and create slop in the shifter.

The feel is a lot better now.

A) I got some of that as well as the gaskets.

B) I don't want to remove the shafts, just look at them. Will opening the case but leaving the shafts in place really mess up their alignment?

C)

Yeah, but the transfer case is much dirtier than the front of the trans. It looks like the gaskets back there were leaking, mixing with road debris and whatnot to coat it. It looks similiar to a leaky rear diff. I shouldn't have typed "grease," if it were grease that might have been easier to remove.

It's a spare in the sense that I don't need it to make my car driveable. I'd like to replace my 4EAT with it. I'm curious as to why this trans won't shift.

Maybe the AK are the initials of a person who replaced the center dif before?

No it was made in Alaska

The AK penetration continued to the front diff...


And there was a "42"


Someone did some sort of service to this thing, wish I knew more.
More pics, it needs a dentist.
http://thawa.net/gallery2/v/AWD_addict/5MTcrapola/