legacycentral bbs

OK, so now that i have a multimeter i could actually find the wires/pins to hook up the scantool through a printer cable correctly.

worked on a AST Premium Exec Laptop
386SX/20 Model 63V
2mb of ram and ghetto rigged to run on camera batteries.

anyways, i havent been able to start my swap yet (rewiring the EJ22T in my impreza) and now i got some numbers to work with. the car wasnt idling (cant) it was 45*F out.
how do these numbers look?

45* coolant (YAY)
.8V airflow signal (isnt that what idle is supposed to be ???)
TPS 5V and doesnt change (already came to conclusion its a bad TPS)
32.64 ms injector pulse width
IAC 100%

02 sensor 0V
boost control duty cycle = 1.56% (???)
Bar pressure = 818 torr (???)
boost/vac = 3.220 psi (???)

also it says the fuel pump is OFF, but i can hear it turn on.
nuetral switch works properly,
idle switch is OFF,
canister purge is OFF (???),
pressure exchange is OFF (???)

pretty much any ???'s are what didnt make sense to me. i have left my 1.8L purge, cam and crank sensors in there... i assumed they were the same parts.

thanks for any help, and THANK YOU VRG!

Is this with the engine running? Is this on an ej22t motor?

Can you provide more details, or a link to a thread that has the details of your swap.

nevermind....
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... highlight=

Fix your TPS wiring....I posted the correct wiring in your other thread.

Look over this thread and the word document
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=24376

That's what the values should be with the engine running at normal operating temp.

As for your info.

The MAF reading looks fine.
TPS, see your other thread
Injector pulse timing is WAY too high
IAC duty is way too high
O2 sensor voltage should oscillate
Wastegate duty...not sure why it does that, but mine gives that same % at idle too.
The canister purge and pressure exchange should be off normally at idle.

ok sorry for the misunderstanding, it is the ej22t, but it is NOT idling, i havent been able to start it yet, these are the numbers with the accesories on.

thanks for the help with the TPS, are the purge solenoid, crank, and cam angle sensors the same as on a 1.8L NA?

also, which solenoid reads the boost/vac? its just the map sensor right (the one that all the vaccuum lines go to?)

because it says 3.220psi (with engine off) and read exactly that 4 different times i turned on and off the ecu.

thanks

Until you start the engine for the first time, all those readings aren't going to mean squat. When the ECU has lost power and "reset" the initial values are little funky.

The purge solenoid is the same. Don't know about the cam & crank, but I don't see why they wouldn't work if they are a different part #.

hmm ok thanks, so right now the TPS is the only thing i KNOW is messed up, well and my starter , so would a bad TPS make it so i cant start my car? i guess that would make sense.

It might, if the ECU is receiving a signal that says the throttle is pretty wide open. Some engine management systems (I don't know for sure about ours) take that as a signal to enter flood-clear mode when cranking, in which no fuel is injected but the spark plugs are still fired.

Try disconnecting the TPS entirely maybe.

hmm ok ill try that, but then my problem is the starter... i know it has power, the solenoid does the in and out clicking, but it doesnt crank, even with a new battery. i guess ill pull the starter off my parts car

Have you pulled the cover off the solenoid to check the condition of the contacts?

had no idea i could do that...?

pics are towards the bottom of the page
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/13

hmm, well my car is WEIRD.

i disconnected the mt ID.. and the starter worked, and then plugged it back in and it still worked ??? (and that was with it not working earlier)
then i disconnected the TPS and started it and it idled at 1500 really solid, i could tell it was running right, and it would even rev kinda smooth, not perfect, but it hasnt been run in a few months so...
also, the rad fan came on with the ignition?? then went off when i started it! like i said its weird.

next thing im gonna do is hook up the scantool and use that handy word sheet and write down the numbers, they will be a bit different though since its at high idle.

WOOHOO- now i just need a TPS

numbers with it idling between 2000 and 2500... i know, very high.

Mode F01 – Battery voltage (VB) - 14.08 V
Mode F06 – Water temperature sensor signal (TW) - 174 deg F
Mode F07 – Ignition timing - 44
Mode F08 – Air flow signal (QA) - 1.5 V (@2500)
Mode F09 – Engine under Loads (L DATA) - 34 (FWD tranny)
Mode F10 – Throttle sensor signal - 0.00 V (unplugged)
Mode F11 – Fuel injection duration (TIM) - 2.17 ms
Mode F12 – By-pass air control solenoid valve (ISC) - 43 %
Mode F13 – O2 sensor (O2) - .3V is all i got, not varying...
Mode F14 – Max. O2 sensor signal volt (O2 Max.) -
Mode F15 – Min. O2 sensor signal volt (O2 Min.) -
Mode F16 – Correction coefficient of a/f ratio (ALPHA) - 0
Mode F17 – Correction value of ignition timing (RTRD) - 0 deg
Mode F18 – Wastegate control duty (WGC) [TURBO] - 1.56 %
Mode F19 – Atmospheric pressure (BARO. P) [TURBO] - 761 mmHg
Mode F20 – Intake manifold pressure (MANI. P) [TURBO] - -21 inHg

things look good i think, except 02 sensor, ignition timing???, the idle, of course the TPS. the idle kept rising as well..... im guessing thats why the IAC was 43% where yours was around 34%

this is sweet!

Work on the TPS and getting the idle to come back down....the other things that are out of range should come into line.

Your starter....I would guess it's the contacts....my car did the same thing....it'd just work out of the blue....

I got a consistent .3V for the O2 sensor reading when my sensor was dead...

hmm yeah i need to get another TPS but matt m wont get back to me! haha

thanks for the thought mike, i have another 02 sensor ill put in to try.