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Cracked hard plastic

Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 11:48 pm
by Splinter
Image

This piece. Cracked at the circled end.

Im 20 miles into the wilderness, what do I do?

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 1:07 am
by mikec
I say plug both ends until you can fix it, but don't leave it more than a day or 2.

Someone may disagree, but you probably don't have much choice.

Or, if you've got a larger piece of hose that'll fit over the end of the hard plastic one, use that to connect the 2.

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 2:48 am
by 1-3-2-4
let me guess it Cracked when you moved the peice?

I had a hard Plastic peice crack almost like that in my impreza, but it's something for an Air idle device, keeps the car from stalling with the A/C

Well that little tiny part is $90 to fix I hear.

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 3:03 am
by Splinter
Well I wouldnt replace the exact part, Id just get a t-barb.

The two hoses go down into the heads... Im not exactly sure what they do.

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 3:15 am
by NuwanD
Can't really tell from the pic but I assume it's the "F" shaped piece which is for the PCV system

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 4:51 am
by vrg3
As a temporary solution, don't plug it -- just wrap some cloth around it and secure it with tape or zipties.

For a non-temporary solution... I gather that the lengths and shapes of the passages in this piece are important, so I would actually suggest trying to repair the part if you can. Epoxy should go a long way.

These are the lines that feed fresh air into the valve covers.

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 6:19 am
by 1-3-2-4
I tried Epoxy on my part and it never did stay.

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 6:59 am
by Subtle
Splinter

The guys up at Saltair might help

Ed 250 246-4675

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 7:55 am
by Splinter
vrg3 wrote:For a non-temporary solution... I gather that the lengths and shapes of the passages in this piece are important, so I would actually suggest trying to repair the part if you can. Epoxy should go a long way.
Why are the lengths and shapes important?

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 3:39 pm
by vrg3
Splinter - I guess to make sure that both sides of the engine get similar amounts of flow. The engineers obviously went out of their way to make the left and right flow paths close to symmetrical.

1-3-2-4 - To make epoxy stick, make sure the plastic is completely clean of grease, completely dry, and roughened. It helps if you use an epoxy meant for plastic, but most kinds should work anyhow.

Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 7:58 am
by Splinter
So it is, as I figured, part of the PCV system

The dealership has ordered the part ($25, I cant believe that)

But I don know if they'll have it by friday... I dont want to run the way Im running til then. Should I just put in a T-barb and clamp it all together?

Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 3:10 pm
by vrg3
You could, but it'd be more effort than it's worth. Just put cloth over it so that debris can't get into your engine and leave it -- venting it to the atmosphere for a week will be fine.

Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 9:27 pm
by Splinter
Is there any reason, apart from emissions, that I shouldnt run the PCV atmospheric with two short filtered hoses? Or will I run too rich? It doesnt seem to me like a lot of air passes through them.

Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 9:44 pm
by vrg3
The piston rings seal somewhat better when the crankcase is being evacuated by the intake manifold or the compressor inlet.

The effect on air/fuel ratio is minimal.

Posted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 7:44 am
by franticfour
I'm sure we have this in stock (4-5 actually).
We're in Tacoma. :-)

We have tons of this type of stuff if ever in need.

e-mail - keith@franticfour.com

Keith, put up pictures of all the replacements for brittle goodies for everyone to drool over. :-D

Eric