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Q1.if im turning right and it knocks louder than turning left, which side is most likely the culprit?

Q2. will a cv from a 1993-1999 legacy/impreza work?

1) Look and see which boot is torn. That's probably the culprit.

2) Probably.

i should also mention that none of them are torn.

Blown CV but no boots are torn?

Did you check the rear axles?

Lots of times, they are only "slightly" torn, and that can still kill a CV.

When you turn the wheel, the side that gets louder, is the joint that tends to be bad. As the inside tire spins faster than the outside tire, the clicking will be higher in frequency. It's probably your right side.

oh for my car I don't have a Torn boot.. However I drove my car until the Right side Front SNapped on my and Broke.

However same day I had the car fixed one of the balls fell from the racetrack, But after he fixed it it makes this sound...

Most likey the Left front is going, but it sounds like it comes from the Left or right sometimes, and when the car is under load the wheel sometimes shakes like mad, but coasting it's smooth, Also it's a thump thump thump when turning.

One of the balls fell from the racetrack?

I don't believe I am familiar with that part of the car....

Unless you mean wheel-bearing. And if you lost a bearing from the wheel bearing, you are in for a world of trouble. Best to replace the bearing.

BAC5.2 wrote:One of the balls fell from the racetrack?

I don't believe I am familiar with that part of the car....

Unless you mean wheel-bearing. And if you lost a bearing from the wheel bearing, you are in for a world of trouble. Best to replace the bearing.

No.. You understand a CV joint have ball inside a cage right?

I fully understand how a CV axle works and how it is assembled. But I've never heard it referred to as a race-track.

If one of the bearings in the CV is missing, you had better replace that too! That'll cause huge problems (like the axle seizing and no longer pivoting freely in the cup). Could also cause some cavitation, and excessive heat (breaking down the axle grease) and ruining the rest of the axle with it.

If you lost a bearing out of your CV then yeah, you definately need to replace that. I've let my CV's go pretty far before, once to the point of the outside race broke, yes it is referred to as a race and I've heard it called a racetrack as well, and the remaining balls fell out and the axle just sat there spinning and grinding away. With the rest of the car just sitting there.

Definately replace it, you'll also probably find it's easier to replace the whole half shaft than just the CV.

"race" yes.. "racetrack" .. never heard

Rebuilding axles is fun! I actually had to rebuild the front drivers side axle on my forester while it was still on the car! Damn axle nut wouldn't come loose, and I was to lazy to apply heat and try again.

skid542 wrote:If you lost a bearing out of your CV then yeah, you definately need to replace that. I've let my CV's go pretty far before, once to the point of the outside race broke, yes it is referred to as a race and I've heard it called a racetrack as well, and the remaining balls fell out and the axle just sat there spinning and grinding away. With the rest of the car just sitting there.

Definately replace it, you'll also probably find it's easier to replace the whole half shaft than just the CV.

lol the internet is so funny with words..

I had the whole right side replaced it was like $364 with labour, I just need to do the drivers side.

HOLY CRAP!!!! You got screwed yo.

Axles are a 10 minute job MAX, and you can get axles for well under $100.

he said he had a little issue trying to get it out..

I dunno.

That's not your problem. Even at most, replacing an axle shouldn't be more than a 1 hour job. I wouldn't go back there, if I were you.

then what other places do them then?

ANY Mechanic will be able to replace an axle. Or you could do it yourself and save $264 from the place you took it.

Search here, there's many topics covering axle removal and install.

BAC5.2 wrote:ANY Mechanic will be able to replace an axle. Or you could do it yourself and save $264 from the place you took it.

Search here, there's many topics covering axle removal and install.

I've heard the hardest bolt to get off is the Axle bolt. and to remove the axles you have to tap on them from what I understand.

Phil definately makes it sound easier than it is, that axle nut can be a complete and utter bitch to get off. It's been known to break more than one socket in it's day... I have yet to do one of my axles because I got tired of trying to get the axle nut off after a 1/2 hr of PB and breaker bar extensions. I'm sure I could have gotten it if I'd kept at it. After the nut is off the rest of it is pretty straight forward, though not to say it's a cake walk on these old cars.

That being said, I've had two axles replaced on my car and the last time I paid $190 including labor for a lifetime warrentied axle that cost 90 dollars. The first time the axle was cheaper and I paid $170 to have it done by my mechanic.

I'd potentially question your mechanics ethics if he's charging you that much for labor...

I guess when you have a 1000lb-ft impact gun at your beckoned call, it makes it a little easier.

Even still, I've gotten that nut loose with a breakerbar.

Just stick a breaker bar on it, set it against the ground, and drive the car a tiny bit forwards (for the right) or backwards (for the left) to use the engine's torque multiplied through the transmission to break it loose!

...and pray nothing goes wrong.

I actually will be doing this tomorrow I think on the 91 Turbo sitting in my driveway. Just use that to crack them loose since the car has been sitting for a LONG time.

skid542 wrote:Phil definately makes it sound easier than it is, that axle nut can be a complete and utter bitch to get off. It's been known to break more than one socket in it's day... I have yet to do one of my axles because I got tired of trying to get the axle nut off after a 1/2 hr of PB and breaker bar extensions. I'm sure I could have gotten it if I'd kept at it. After the nut is off the rest of it is pretty straight forward, though not to say it's a cake walk on these old cars.

That being said, I've had two axles replaced on my car and the last time I paid $190 including labor for a lifetime warrentied axle that cost 90 dollars. The first time the axle was cheaper and I paid $170 to have it done by my mechanic.

I'd potentially question your mechanics ethics if he's charging you that much for labor...

The price I said is the total cost with labor

Yes, and he paid $190 for parts AND labor. That's $100 labor and $90 parts and it's a lifetime warranty.

I want to find some "lifetime warranty" axles for my car. And then fully exploit the warranty should it become necessary.

vrg3 wrote:Just stick a breaker bar on it, set it against the ground, and drive the car a tiny bit forwards (for the right) or backwards (for the left) to use the engine's torque multiplied through the transmission to break it loose!

...and pray nothing goes wrong.

heh.

I bought one of those big-ass axle nut sockets, so I'm gussing the breaker bar will break first. I'm switching out a spindle tomorrow.


Isn't there someone on USMB that sells rebuilt axles?