legacycentral bbs

of the two studs on the bottom one of them came out complete stud and nut and everything. but the second my firend was impatient adn bent it. so that needs replacing. but when we pulled the motor out there were these two round things on the crossmember.

turns out the motor mounts on my car were more than shot they were split in half adn not doing anything in the means of holding my motor onto the crossmember. good thing i decided to go hardcore and get the cusco solid mounts

azn2nr wrote:of the two studs on the bottom one of them came out complete stud and nut and everything. but the second my firend was impatient adn bent it. so that needs replacing. but when we pulled the motor out there were these two round things on the crossmember.

turns out the motor mounts on my car were more than shot they were split in half adn not doing anything in the means of holding my motor onto the crossmember. good thing i decided to go hardcore and get the cusco solid mounts

Yeah that's funny how everyone I've heard on here has complained about shitty mounts and the like.

when I pulled my motor, I inspected the mounts and everything was great about them. 150 thousand miles on the car and the mounts were solid, no tears, nada.


so they went right back in

Unless you can remove the nut from the unbent stud without damaging anything, you should replace the stud and nut on that side too.

The stud is part number 800910470.
The nut is part number 802010080.
The washer (in case you lost it) is part number 032010000.

there wasnt a washer on the nut, there wasnt one on any of them actualy.

id asume its a locking washer right?

also since the trans had been rebuilt not so long ago adn the motor mounts were practily non existent as soon as we loosened the motor from the tranny there was a huge gap between the motor and tranny which made life pretty easy.

There should have been a washer on each nut and each of the bolts up top. One for the nut that holds the starter in, too (that's a different washer, though -- part number 031010006).

They are indeed locking washers. They're spring washers.

yeah they werent there. on either car actualy. i guess they arent really nessary???

My mounts were fine for 168k miles, put the turbo in, and the left one split in about 1000 miles. Group-N to the rescue.

Why do you guess they aren't really necessary?

I guess the motor wasnt dragging on the ground yet.
how much were the cusco solid mounts? you can make your stock mounts solid for free-very cheap.

not familiar with the cusco style mount, any pics?

ill take some pics of the cusco mounts. their pretty hardcore seeing as group N's are just hardened rubber.

as for me thinking the washers arent nessary, its because we are building 2 subies and tearing one apart all the the same garage (search: revenge of the deer slayer on nasioc) none of the 3 subies we have in there had washers on the bolts that connect the trans and motor.

None of them? Wow.

I wouldn't bolt a transmission to an engine without them if I could avoid it.

The Cusco mounts are ridiculous.

Imagine rubber and metal. Then imagine more metal than rubber. They are violent. Extremely violent. They also break pretty quickly. A race car at the shop broke two drivers side Cusco mounts.

sweet, cant wait till i get to feel teh violence. are the cusco mounts avaible indivudaly because as far as i knew they were only avaible in a set. completly solid mounting + 13 lb flywheel + 4:11 = really really fun

but yeah V, not a single one of the cars have them. im gonna check out one other subie that one of the guys helping us has to see if his has the washers but as for the 3 in the garage, none of them have them.

They aren't available seperately. They kept shearing the bolts holding the peices together.

We swapped them side to side, and it broke the drivers side again.

oh. if he just sheared the bolts couldnt you just replace them?

We wanted to use the bolts designed for the mounts.

We replaced the broken bolt with an OE bolt, and put a different bolt in on the passenger side.

Kept snapping bolts though.

sounds like a design problem.

The design problem is zero compliance. Something had to break.

Use a stronger bolt, and something else would have broken. Like the studs pulling out of the mount body.

Yup. The engine is always going to twist, and that energy has to go somewhere. It's probably best to take the edge off in a hard, but relatively compliant rubber mount.

i dont think ill break it but if i do and i do it alot ill just have mattguiver fab me some polly bolts to replace them