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I'm not sure if I need an oil-breakin process if all that was rebuilt was the heads on this ej22t, but the motor has sat for a while. For regular oil changes, is everyone using a full synthetic like Mobil 1?

For spark plugs, I'm assuming to use a range colder then stock. Standard NGK's that are 1step colder work really well on the dsm and I'm imagining the same for these ej22t's. What is recommended?

Thanks~

Sorry, I found the plugs to use:

BKR6E11 (stock range: part# 2756)
BKR7E11 (one range colder: part# ????)

Still wondering if new heads need cheap-oil-breakin or not. Else mobil1 full synth is going in tonight.

Thanks~

if i were you, i would run oil that i will be using in the long run.

for spark plugs, i have no idea. i dont know anything about colder range spark plugs and crap. what does it actually do?? maybe im using the wrong spark plugs.

Ah yeah thats what I plan to do then, I'll be picking up 5 qts of mobil1 full synth then today.

Colder range plugs just cause a slightly later burn (***EDIT*** cooler combustion, not later burn), helping in detonation/knock prevention, especially on high boost applications. I'm just use to using 1 range colder on dsm's, so that's why I asked...then again, I was running 27+psi lol so it might not matter on these engines.

Thanks.

Manny~

Im going to be putting in amsoil synthetic on my next change

my3awds wrote:Colder range plugs just cause a slightly later burn, helping in detonation/knock prevention, especially on high boost applications.

What makes you say that?

i run mobil 1 in the engine.

as for plugs i have always used the oem spec ngks from the dealership.

vrg3 wrote:

my3awds wrote:Colder range plugs just cause a slightly later burn, helping in detonation/knock prevention, especially on high boost applications.

What makes you say that?

Actually this has been debated back and forth also in the dsm community and I don't feel like starting one here LOL. But from my understanding, a 'colder' plug (a plug that transfers heat faster from the firing tip into the engine head) takes some of the heat away in the combustion chamber by , thus slightly helping the combustion chamber stay within its optimum range (500°-850°C??). Of course increasing the induction via boost, nitrous, etc, alter the plugs temperature and thats why people also play with tip gapping. This is just what I've read and I've found first hand experience on my old 400whp dsm. When I used bpr6es (stock range) it would detonate on 100octane and 25psi approx 4 counts through the rpm range. When I switched to bpr7es (1step colder), it actually made my setting a tad richer and I had to lean out the settings a bit on my gm maft. Whatever the 'real' reasoning for it, it's worked for me so I'll stick to it.

For now though, since I'll be on stock boost, I'll be using the standard range.

Okay, that's pretty much mostly correct. What you wrote first though is not.

Sorry I got higher octane late burn concepts mixed up with my colder range plug understanding. I'll correct it now to prevent spreading misinformation.

my3awds wrote:(***EDIT*** cooler combustion, not later burn)

Closer . It's not combustion temperature but rather the temperature of the plug itself.

Ah, so by the temperature of the plug being cooler, it doesnt cause a cooler combustion?

Manny~

It actually goes the other way, kind of: combustion temperature dictates the heat range of the spark plug that should be used. If your combustion temperatures are high, you need to use a cold plug to prevent the plug from overheating. And if your combustion temperatures are low, you need to use a hot plug to prevent the plug from fouling.

But there is one case (which is probably what you're thinking of) where a cooler plug indirectly causes cooler combustion temperatures. An overheating spark plug can cause preignition. Preignition is a little like overly advanced ignition timing, and so its effects include elevated combustion temperatures. Switching in a cooler plug can eliminate the preignition problem, restoring correct effective timing, and consequently reducing combustion temperatures back to where they were supposed to be.

ahhh. i understand now. thanks for the insight!

Sure thing.

And it all makes sense now Thanks~~

im going out to buy new plugs and wires today
what should i get for plugs?

never mind! i read the spark plug sticky

I run the cheapest oil I can find,

For spark plugs I have NGK Iridium plugs that are a step colder.