legacycentral bbs

i was taking apart my intake because it was a nice day and i had nothing better to do and discovered that this hose was broken off at the resonator, the hole is plugged w/a scew:



it is the line that goes to the bottom of the vertical cylinder thing shown here:


i did not do this. and i would like to know what doing this has done, if anything to the way the engine runs.

That is the stock boost control solenoid.

The other hoses are for the purge canister and the idle air

That being vented to atmosphere would cause a slight leak of metered air. I suppose it would cause you to be slightly rich under boost, maybe.

actually that port should always be a vacuum, except when the BOV vents.

Splinter wrote:That is the stock boost control solenoid.

The other hoses are for the purge canister and the idle air

what is the part on top if it that has the wiring going into it?

The lower cylinder is the OEM boost control solenoid. The upper one is the pressure sensor.

thanks everyone.

next question:

where does the hose on top of the boost control solenoid go?

I haven't had mine hooked up for years but I believe it goes to the wastegate actuator and the lower one goes to the compressor outlet.

legacy92ej22t wrote:I haven't had mine hooked up for years but I believe it goes to the wastegate actuator and the lower one goes to the compressor outlet.

That is correct

legacy92ej22t wrote:I haven't had mine hooked up for years but I believe it goes to the wastegate actuator and the lower one goes to the compressor outlet.

so what exactly is going on w/my engine if the boost control solenoid is disconnected?

You're either running a MBC, running wastegate boost, or running uncontrolled boost and hitting fuel cut every time you accelerate

Splinter wrote:You're either running a MBC, running wastegate boost, or running uncontrolled boost and hitting fuel cut every time you accelerate

the car is bone stock unless there is a MBC hiding somewhere that i havent ever seen.

i drive the car WOT alot and i have never to my knowledge hit fuel cut. so i must be running wastegate boost.

the bottom hose is still connected to the compressor outlet and the end that is supposed to connect to the resonator is plugged up w/the remainder of the nipple from the resonator.

Whats connected to the wastegate actuator?

Splinter wrote:Whats connected to the wastegate actuator?

i have no idea.

i am pretty sure everything is stock so it should be hooked up the way it was meant to be aside from the screw in the resonator.

Sounds like you're running on wastegate boost (about 5psi)

Splinter wrote:Sounds like you're running on wastegate boost (about 5psi)

that doesnt sound like much fun at all.

i think i need to fix that asap.

Build the home depot MBC

Its been working great for me

You should look at my vacuum diagram.

It's common for that nipple to break.

So is the hose that used to connect to that nipple just plugged? Or is it open to the atmosphere?

If it's plugged, you're probably getting wastegate boost all the time, and that should be rectified.

If it's open to the atmosphere, your car is probably running apparently fine.

You can get away with leaving it open if you want. Just put a filter of some kind on it. That can also simplify future muggification.

It would be better, though, to fix the nipple. You can drill the hole out to 11/32" and then run an 1/8" NPT tap through it. That'll allow you to thread in a plastic hose barb fitting like A2-4 BN. If you don't tap it very deep, you should be able to get the nylon to deform and make the threads seal without sealant.

I've done it twice. Like I said, it's common for that nipple to break.

vrg3 wrote:You should look at my vacuum diagram.

It's common for that nipple to break.

So is the hose that used to connect to that nipple just plugged? Or is it open to the atmosphere?

If it's plugged, you're probably getting wastegate boost all the time, and that should be rectified.

If it's open to the atmosphere, your car is probably running apparently fine.

You can get away with leaving it open if you want. Just put a filter of some kind on it. That can also simplify future muggification.

It would be better, though, to fix the nipple. You can drill the hole out to 11/32" and then run an 1/8" NPT tap through it. That'll allow you to thread in a plastic hose barb fitting like A2-4 BN. If you don't tap it very deep, you should be able to get the nylon to deform and make the threads seal without sealant.

I've done it twice. Like I said, it's common for that nipple to break.

it isnt totally plugged but it isnt totally open to atmo. it appears to have the remainder of the nipple in it and it looks like it was broken off so the opening is smaller than the inner diameter of the nipple.

i just want to link to the diagram again because it should be all over the place.
Vacuum Diagram by vrg3:

http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/vacu ... vacuum.png

that thing is way too cool. i never looked at it before because i only had NA cars untill this past year.

i looked closer at it appears that a previous owner tried to repair the nipple w/epoxy and that broke and then decided that since the car was running fine to just plug the resonator and leave the hose open (it still has the nipple in it and it appears the nipple remnants are epoxied into the hose).

so the hose is not blocked off.

is a filter totally necesary? has been open to atmo for at least as long as i have had it and probably longer.

does hose "J" suck or blow? or does it depend on if i am on boost or not?

It's not totally necessary, since it's only meant to ever "blow." But why not protect it a little bit?

You can cut the hose shorter as long as you leave the restrictor in it.

vrg3 wrote:It's not totally necessary, since it's only meant to ever "blow." But why not protect it a little bit?

You can cut the hose shorter as long as you leave the restrictor in it.

i agree on the protection philosophy, i was just wondering if it is something i should run out and get ASAP. doesnt seem so. it is added towards the top of "the list."

thanks for your help.

glad to know i am not stuck running around on 5 pounds of boost. although, i guess the only way to be sure is to slap a boost gauge on there and see what is up.

the boost gauge is on the list right behind stopping the slow oil weeps from the valve covers and various seals. no point in modding it if it isnt at least 95%.

No problem. Yeah, just keep it in mind for the next time you're near an auto parts store.

You can also use the scantool to measure boost pressure.

vrg3 wrote:No problem. Yeah, just keep it in mind for the next time you're near an auto parts store.

You can also use the scantool to measure boost pressure.

yet another thing i have been meaning to put together.

my "list" is huge and expensive.