legacycentral bbs

My 94 Legacy SS is stuck in AWD.

It has torque bind symptoms, so I put in the FWD fuse. The light on dash indicating it is in FWD comes on, but it still has torque bind, and still spins the rear wheels if I step on it in the gravel.

What gives?

Any Ideas?

To add another thing, This car also has the odd habbit of rocking after I shut it off.

I put it in park, feel it go in to park, all is stable until I shut off the engine, then it rocks forward or back a few inches every time.

Hmm... So is that what happens when the duty c solenoid completely takes a crap? (stuck in permanent AWD w/torque bind reguardless of the fuse being in or out)

I thought it would lose the AWD if the duty c solenoid totally failed or had no signal to it.
...I guess I had it backwards?

Mine lost AWD when it stopped working properly. I think yours is the first I've seen that's been stuck in.

If the solenoid fails you get full pressure, or 50/50. If you lose AWD the clutches are worn.

Did you put a known good fuse in the FWD slot?

He noted the FWD light illuminating on the dash, so the circuit is complete. Although it wouldn't matter if the what's-it-called hub and the clutches were worn grooved together/not moving freely.

With the car running verify you have 12v at one side of the FWD fuse connection.

Next, with the car off, check the resistance of the duty c solenoid.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... _diag1.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... _diag2.jpg

If you've got voltage & resistance is good, then the hub & clutch packs are probably locked together like Thawa mentioned

Thanks for the help.
I found those scans last night while searching on the topic. You had posted them for someone else. Now I guess I know what to do with them.

Time to go get a multimeter I suppose. New tool to learn to use.

Hello again,
I'm digging up this old thread cuz I still have this issue and It's still pissing me off.
To recap, I an talking about a 94SS 4EAT. It has severe torque binding and the fuse doesn't make the FWD thing happen. The FWD light comes on on the dash, but it is still stuck in permanent 50/50 split.
SO, To check the resistance of the duty c solenoid properly, I should use which wires?
From the rear of the transmission moving forward I see a small 3 wire clip, that runs in to a larger bundle of wires going in to another clip that rests just behind the starter. Which wires Do I check? Or should I be checking from elsewhere? That info would help out.

And to add a bit of reckless ignorance to this thread, What happens if I remove the driveshaft completely?
[closes eyes and prepares to be ridiculed]

Thanks in advance for any help.

Try the main B15 (big connector at the firewall) first.

If you take the driveshaft completely out, it'll pee oil all over the place. You could remove the rear half of the driveshaft, and leave the front have connected to the trans and the carrier bearing, but I don't know how long I'd leave it like that.....the trans would probably not like that very much, and make things worse then they are.

I'm having the exact same thing in my car.
just started a post today about it.
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... 077#189077

going to check the duty solenoid c today.

maybe between the two of us we can figure this out.

I had the same problem in my wifes outback, the fuse would not do anything and it was in constant 4x4. Ended up pulling the clutch pack and duty C and TCU out of a bone yard subaru w/ about 95K on it or so and paid $42, swapped them out (all except the TCU) and everything works great.