legacycentral bbs

Ok gang, here it is. Ive found pleanty of info on this little sucker as it seems to go out on just about every early model turbo legacy. If you need clarification, it is the solenoid that causes a code 35. What Ive not found on this board is a trick for replacing this part without removing the intake mani along with the overwhelming mess of hoses, vacume lines etc.. If anyone has a trick to get at this silly part without hours of agony please feel free to enlighten me. Ive messed with it for a couple of hours and my unimaginative brain hasnt come up with a solution. If I missed somthing obvious in an archive, I will gladly own up to my lack of persistance and dig further. Thanks in advance, as allways your assistance is very much appreciated.

code 35... i thought that was the purge control solenoid. its the one that is under the intake manifold on the passenger side correct? yea its a little bitch to get to. you CAN get to it without removing anything else. a friend and i did it, just be sure to have the car cold, or at least cooled down. we just reached into it. thats all really.

Yup, were talkin about the same thing. That part has about 15 seperate names. So were you going in from the back side of the mani or thru the side between the tubes? From the side an adjustable wont fit and a cresent is too wide to fit in the gap around the bolt. From the back, even with my extensions doubled up the angle is way off due to the various bits of framework coming up off of the block. Thanks again for your time and advice.

Project, I can't possibly see how you can replace this valve on an EJ22T without either removing the turbo or the intake manifold.

from experience: you can get to the connector with a long screwdriver, unplug the connector. Leave the canister purge solenoid in its spot, you cannot replace the bolt even with 1000 dollars in tools...... Remove the two vacuum hoses from the solenoid. The existing wire is long enough to relocate the solenoid over between the injectors near the fuel rail. You will need to buy a longer section of vacuum line. one line connects to it up by the coil pack. the other goes back to a valve over where the original was located. There is a tapped location on the block that you can re-fasten the solenoid. I can provide pictures if you need.

Yes, you can remove the bolt holding the solenoid, but you will never be able to get another started, so that is why you need to relocate it.

Umm.......

I have changed that one twice on my car. Its a turbo. I got it from the back of the manifold. You have to take the turbo to throttle body piping. I use a 16" extention with a swivel on the end. A pain in the ass t get to, but nothing else had to be removed.

Oh, the secret to putting the bolt back in is put it in the socket, and putting a piece of tape around it to hold it in.

well actually when we did it, it was on my N/A. haha i forgot all about that! but what we did was we went thru the 2 intake manifold plenums (?) it wasnt easy, it was a big pain in the ass. we never screwed it back in tho, just let it hang around.

Bheinen74 wrote:from experience: you can get to the connector with a long screwdriver, unplug the connector. Leave the canister purge solenoid in its spot, you cannot replace the bolt even with 1000 dollars in tools...... Remove the two vacuum hoses from the solenoid. The existing wire is long enough to relocate the solenoid over between the injectors near the fuel rail. You will need to buy a longer section of vacuum line. one line connects to it up by the coil pack. the other goes back to a valve over where the original was located. There is a tapped location on the block that you can re-fasten the solenoid. I can provide pictures if you need.

I kindof arrived at the same conclusion as you did last night and will be trying to do this today as a temporary fix. A pic would be cool if it is not too much trouble.

stipro wrote:Umm.......

I have changed that one twice on my car. Its a turbo. I got it from the back of the manifold. You have to take the turbo to throttle body piping. I use a 16" extention with a swivel on the end. A pain in the ass t get to, but nothing else had to be removed.

Oh, the secret to putting the bolt back in is put it in the socket, and putting a piece of tape around it to hold it in.

Good trick with the tape. I had planned on using that for the very same reason. I did not think about a swivel though.....Ill have to pick one up.

i just had the same problem on my car. just disconnect it with a screw driver. and relocate the new one somewhere else. all you need is a screw driver , steady hands, and some long needle nose pliers

I did this on a turbo car, and I removed the intake components, and then removed the turbo elbow. That gave me plenty of room to work on it.

Bheinen74 wrote:Leave the canister purge solenoid in its spot, you cannot replace the bolt even with 1000 dollars in tools......

The hell you can't. Remove the inlet elbow from the turbo and you have more than enough space to fit any rachet and socket in there.

Boy what a PITA! For now, due to a lack of time, I simply disconnected the old one with the screwdriver/needle nose pliers method, added a longer vacume hose to the purge canister line, then connected the new sensor and cliped it into the holder for the plug wires. And there it sits nice and pretty on top of the mani!

BTW: Thanks again Blackbart for helpn me out with the parts!