legacycentral bbs

So - I want / need a skid plate pretty bad with the driving I do around here. Anyone have experience rigging up an effective one? What should I look for locally, just a steel supplier? How thick should it be - 1/8"? I'm open to any suggestions. Thanks in advance!

primitive racing's is a nice piece
I think its 3/16 6061
I wouldnt use steel, too heavy
maybe some thicker HDPE like 3/8
you could probably make one yourself, just make a cardboard pattern and have a fab shop put a 4 or so degree bend wherever it needs to be.
if I ever get around to it, I am going to build a lower chassis brace with 6pt mounting and use that as a frame to mount some 3/16 aluminum. just not too high on my project list unfortunately.

Just checked out primitive racing's selection, that looks reasonable. I think I'll get one from them, and then later when I've got a shop I'll copy it for my Silver scooby. They've got a rear diff cover too.

http://www.writerguy.com/primitive/skid.htm

Now if only I could find some inexpensive way to lift the suspension...

If you find a skid plate that bolts right up without modification, then please post about it on the BBS. Thanks!

I just sent the guy an email asking about direct fitment on my Legacy, we'll see what he says.

He said:

Hi Chris,

I do not have a skidplate that just bolts onto the old Legacy Turbos. I have
sold the early Impreza plate to turbo owners, and they invert it (flip it
over which actually gives more clearance because the turbo exhaust manifolds do
not hang down as much
) and then they re-drill the front 2 holes to match the threaded holes under
the radiator support. Some report having to re-trim the front edge to fit
against the bumper skin and others say it all fits fine. I have never had a Leg
Turbo in hand to try it on. May have to do with which year of Leg Turbo it
was...

The rear skidplate bolts on perfectly to that car.

The total for front and rear (discounted because it isn't a perfect "bolt-on"
) is $259 plus shipping of $15-35 depending where you are located.

So I guess it's not a direct bolt-on but it doesn't sound like it'd take much modification to make it fit. What do you guys think? This includes some armor for the rear differential, too.

For more background, I got one from Primitive - the fitment for my Impreza RS. I held it up to my Legacy L Wagon AWD and it looked like it wasn't going to work. I thought that it wasn't just a problem with the holes, it also interfered with the exhaust manifold. But, I never really invested any time in trying the mods he said, so I can't say for sure.

I decided skid plates were pointless for rallycross anyway, so I never invested much energy in it. I ran it on my RS on and off, and left it in the alley behind my office on and off, and after a few years some crack head stole it for scrap.

But recently the oil pan and oil filter on my SS have taken some nasty dents, so if someone told me there was a direct fitment or an easy mod to make it work (i.e. no bends or cuts required) then I might buy another one.

So let me know if you find something that works.

I spoke to the local metal fabrication guys about making me a skidplate today. A nice big one that would protect all the way back to my downpipe flange. He took some measurements underneath the car, and estimated $90 in labor (hour and a half or so). As for material, it was either $135 worth of 1/4" thick aluminum or $40 worth of 1/8" thick steel. The thinner steel skidplate seems like it might be reasonable.

What do you guys think? 1/8" thick steel shouldn't be too heavy, should it?

Or should I spring for the Primitive front plate?

I bought a giant peice of aluminum diamond plate from a local surplus/liquidator guy. $80 and it was a huge peice. Built a front skid plate and will build a rear plate for the gas tank too. Forget the rear diff, if you're breaking that then you've destroyed your tank already, trust me on this one.

Yeah, aluminum diamond plate would work well. I think I'm going to find some place to buy a piece and see what I can do with that.

I was wondering about the rear skidplate; that's good to know, thanks. I'm much more worried about protecting my oil pan and downpipe flange anyway.

free5ty1e wrote: What do you guys think? 1/8" thick steel shouldn't be too heavy, should it?

Wow... that'd be really heavy!

rallysam wrote:

free5ty1e wrote: What do you guys think? 1/8" thick steel shouldn't be too heavy, should it?

Wow... that'd be really heavy!

Not 1/8th of an inch....unless by heavy you mean like 10-15lbs....

rallysam and I discussed this in another thread a while back. The subject is a bit misleading, considering that the Primitive skidplate fits very well on my 91 SS:

http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org/viewto ... +skidplate

Really, the mod to make the plate fit is very simple. Drill three extra holes. The leading edge of my plate tucks very neatly behind the lower lip of the front bumper skin. I'm not sure, but now that I've installed the Group N drive train mounts, I might not even need the spacers in the back.

If you look at the cost of materials, and how much time it would take you to build a custom one, the Primitive looks pretty good. Unless you think that saving $75 and spending 4 or 5 hours of your time is a good deal, you should just buy one. If you have the tools and the time, and you want the satisfaction of doing it yourself, then go for it. Either way you should get the jack plate that I refer to in the thread. It's only a few dollars, and makes it easy to mount the plate in a few minutes.

Cool, so you've got the Primitive plate installed. Thank you for the photo of it in place too, now I can see how far back it covers. It does not look like it protects the downpipe at all, which makes me want to have one made locally instead.

It looks like you just had to flip it upside down and drill some new holes, which is just what Paul told me. What about changing your oil, with the plate upside down does your oil drain plug and filter line up so that you can get to them without removing the plate?

I don't think that it is flipped upside down. The bends in the plate go up, away from the ground, which is normal I would guess. The drain hole is pretty small, I've never tried to change the oil through the plate. It's so easy to remove the plate- literally three minutes with a 13mm ratchet. Five stainless steel bolts drop out and you move the plate out of the way. I don't leave the plate on year 'round, but I put it on if I do a rally cross, or if I know I'll be on gravel roads, and it usually stays on for most of the winter. If I have to change oil I just take the plate off.

Chris, there is a Primitive Outback skidplate for sale on Nasioc for $75.


http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=919918

Word, thanks Nick. That's not the WRX skidplate though, which is the one that Paul says fits. I already have Paypal'd him the money anyway - so I'll have some armor on me ride's underbelly soon!

I absolutely LOVE driving sideways on these maintained clay/gravel roads. Good god. Total control with the Legacy at like 70, 80 mph. Absolutely no concern of losing control.

The Toyota RWD pickemup though... that's another story. That suspension needs some help bad to go fast on dirt roads (without falling apart!)

OK, I got the primitive plate installed... not too tough to do. Drove around yesterday and could definately feel something transmitted up the throttle cable. I couldn't really see when I tightened the bolts up, but I wonder if the plate is contacting the engine... maybe the oil pan. That's probably not good, huh?

I got some photos of the install I'll upload soon.

free5ty1e wrote:I wonder if the plate is contacting the engine... maybe the oil pan.

That's exactly what was happening on mine. Especially before the Group N engine mounts went in. If you check the thread that I link above, you'll see my solution of putting a couple large nuts as spacers between the jack plate and the skid plate...

Two rear bolts go through skid plate > 3/4" nut > into threaded hole on jack plate.

Works great, cheap, easy.

Gotcha - I didn't notice that on your linked post before. I'll have to see what I have that could be used to space that down. Thanks!

free5ty1e wrote:Gotcha - I didn't notice that on your linked post before. I'll have to see what I have that could be used to space that down. Thanks!

Yeah, it just took a fraction of an inch to get the angle to clear the oil pan.

OK, got the car up in the air again and got my head in there, the oil pan and drain bolt were both pretty much resting on the skidplate. I went through the random hardware I have and found some nice rubber washers. Put three on each of the jack plate bolts, then managed to slip one on each of the radiator support bolts, tightened them all down, and it looks good now! Started the engine and it sounded / felt normal again. I could see where the oil pan drain bolt was chewing into the plate, but no serious damage done.

New jack plate Subaru p/n: 20510 AC000 (came with the skidplate, has nuts welded in place to bolt to)

Some photos and info on the install:


Unarmored Legacy underbelly... all exposed and nekked (not to mention dirty)


Stock and new jack plates


New jack plate installed

To mark where the new holes needed to be drilled, I cut some q-tips to the right length and wrapped tape around the stem until they fit snugly inside the existing radiator support threaded holes, then dipped the tips in paint. Then I installed and tightened the two bolts in the jack plate until the front of the skidplate pressed up onto the q-tips. It worked like a charm!



The three holes that need to be drilled are about 2" away from the original holes (3" from the offset hole), and one hole-length over.




...and, my new armor is in place!

Chris: nice write up and good photos! I hope this is helpful to others who wish to add protection.

Another helpful tip is to get a M8x1.25 tap to get the rust out of the front holes. Those threaded holes have been open to the environment for at least 12 years. Mine were almost impossible to thread a bolt into. Spray some PB Blaster up in there and carefully thread in the tap. Once the threads catch, turn the tap a 1/2 turn, then back it out about an 1/8th of a turn to let the rust fall out. Then go another 1/2 turn, and back it out slightly again. Keep doing this until you've cleared up the all the threads. Your new bolts will go in, and come out, much easier.

Just curious....why did you switch to the newer style jacking plate?

Legacy777 wrote:Just curious....why did you switch to the newer style jacking plate?

the holes are a bit farther apart to better match up with the skidplate. and the new plate has nuts welded on it.



edited becuase i was incorrect. thanks for the correction freestyle.