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Engine will turn over, but simply will not start.

Not very mechanically minded and have checked / changed everything I can think of -

coil pack
fuseable links
computer
fuel filter relay
igniter module

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks,
Tom - Pittsburgh, Pa.

Here's what originally happened:

Bought this car for a friend in need in Dec '05.

Made necessary repairs and had car inspected.

Everything was fine.

Friend drove car for a month with no prob.

Then, it would turn over but would not start.

She said "it won't start and it's a gas hog!".

I found a broken rubber fuel hose.

Replaced the hose and also had to replace the fuel pump relay.

Those repairs fixed the problem, but our good fortune was short-lived.

Again, car would turn over but would not start.

Replaced the fuel pump and car ran fine for a few days then we were back at square one....car would turn over but would not start.

When replacing the fuel pump, I may have done something I shouldn't have done. I kinda' forced the fuel pump in to make it sit properly.

Anyway, we secured the fuel pump and car ran well for a few days then it quit again.

This is where we are now.

Car will turn over but it will not start.

I can understand the "no fuel" problem, but what has me perplexed is no spark.

The only check I've done for "no spark" was to remove a plug wire and hold it close to the chassis. Since I didn't see spark I just figured I had a "no spark" problem and made no further checks.

Anyway, I think the problem is with the fuel pump and I've read on this forum where you have to be careful in replacing the pump as not to force it into position. Like I said earlier, I forced the one that's in there now and I'm hoping that's my problem.

Thanks for reading.!

You probably have a bad crank or cam sensor. Sometimes they will fail intermittently (work cold then fail when they got hot). Use an oscilloscope to test the sensors. I bet if you pull codes you'll get a bad cam/crank sensor code. With no engine speed or synch reference the ECU has no way of knowing when to fire the coils or the injectors.

Oddly enough this could also be cause by a bad battery of bad battery cables. Had that issue with a Subaru a few months ago. The battery would crank fine (provide the current) but voltage was only about 8-9v so the car would intermittently start. Wasn't enough voltage for the injector solenoids to activate or the igniter to light off the coil.

Remember before you start fixing/replacing things, go back to basics

On a side note, if all else is in good shape (plugs wires, air filter, tire pressure ect) then a new O2 sensor will likely solve your "gas hog" issue. They tend to get slow as they age and though depending on the test, they might test ok, are still bad.

buddy wrote:The only check I've done for "no spark" was to remove a plug wire and hold it close to the chassis. Since I didn't see spark I just figured I had a "no spark" problem and made no further checks.

The way I've always checked for spark was to remove a spark plug wire AND spark plug still connected to it. Point the end of the spark plug tip to a ground and it should arch. If it still doesn't arch, it could be a faulty cam or crank sensor. Maybe inspect those for excess oil or gunk blocking the sensor from reading the trigger marks. Also, I know on my 93 Impreza, when you put the key to the "ON" position you can audibly hear the fuel pump (or perhaps its the pump relay) turning on. Just a few other things to look for.

Manny~

thanks for the replies!

will check cam and crank sensors tomorrow.