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Did a search and didn't find anything. Maybe someone else with better searching skillz can point me to a thread.

What tools do I need to change my right front axle? I figure the procedure will be covered in the Haynes manual, but I might come back here if it's not.

The only "special" tools you might need is a large socket for the axle nut(They differ in size with different manufacturers), and something to drive the roll pin out of the inner(transmission side) part of the axle.
Other than that a 19mm socket and end wrench should do it.

Remember to mark the orientation of the top bolt that holds the strut to the hub assembly. This bolt is oval and adjusts your camber.

Oh, and if you dont have an impact wrench, you will want to loosen the axle nut while the tire is on the ground.

Yeah, I don't have an impact wrench. Any suggestions on what to use for the roll pin?

Use a punch for the roll pin. Go to Sears and ask them for a punch, they'll know what to give you (hopefully ).

I think the axle nut is 32mm, I think. I know that a 1¼ inch socket will work also.

A 3/16" flat-nosed punch is ideal for the roll pins.

Argh... I can't even get the axle nut off. I just broke a breaker bar on it (broke off the attachment for the socket). Time for a torch and/or PB Blaster, I guess...

Stupid question: You unstaked the axle nut before trying to turn it, right?

Stupider question: You're turning it the right way, right?

I unstaked it, but didn't do a very good job of it. There's also the problem that it was indented in another place besides where it was staked.

And yes, I'm turning counterclockwise.

I took the breaker bar back to AutoZone and they replaced it under warranty, so at least there's that. How long do you recommend I let the PB Blaster sit?

Can you do a better job unstaking it? Maybe even take a die grinder or angle grinder, or even a Dremel, to it?

Let the blaster soak for maybe half an hour, tapping with a hammer every few minutes.

I don't know if PB Blaster alone is gonna do it for you. You may just need to use a lot of torque. You might even consider using the engine's torque to do it -- brace the breaker bar against the ground such that moving the car either forwards or backwards would loosen the nut, and then drive the car a foot or so. This is hard on the wheel bearing, and requires some trust in the breaker bar (which might not be deserved if AutoZone gave you the same type you just broke), but it might work.

It's pretty much round now -- but my worry is that I stripped threads/wedged metal in and that's why it won't turn now.

I will see if the PB Blaster does the trick and if not, i'll try using the engine's torque like you said. I think AutoZone is out of breaker bars though, so hopefully this one will be a bit sturdier.

250 lb from an impact wrench could easily get the axle nut off my car. I can't believe that you broke a breaker bar on it. Maybe you could start beating on the breaker bar to jar the nut loose. That engine torque thing is a good idea, but like Vikash said, not good for the hub assembly.

The PB blaster didn't work, so i used the car's engine -- and broke the breaker bar again. I'm going to Harbor Freight tomorrow to see if they have a decent electric impact wrench.

I don't think an electric impact wrench is gonna do it for you, unfortunately. You need more torque than that. You may have to invest in a breaker bar that doesn't break. Then put a 10-foot pipe over it if necessary.

Hmmmm... you think a shop would be willing to get it off for me for a small fee?

Yeah, probably. I don't know if the fee would be much less than the cost of the breaker bar they'd use though.

vrg3 wrote:I don't think an electric impact wrench is gonna do it for you, unfortunately.

It did it for me!

Now I just need a better hammer to finish getting the roll pin out... now that the car is in pieces...

How the hell do I get the new roll pin seated in the hole so that I can hammer it in? This seems to be the final hurdle...

Nevermind. I figured it out -- and I'm done!

What part of the hub did you move to get the axle out? My mechanic undid one of the control arm bolts so that he could rotate the hub to get at the axle.

Yeah, the control arm wasn't detaching from the steering knuckle, so i undid the top strut bolt. I tried to do the bottom one too but it just wanted to spin freely, so I just finagled it with the top one undone.

I actually had a bit of trouble getting the axle through the hub -- I had to hammer the inner part of the axle to get it through. It worked just fine afterwards though.

Before I had my air tools properly setup I had to go to a shop to use their impact wrench to get the nut off. They just loosened it, and put it back on.

Manarius wrote:What part of the hub did you move to get the axle out? My mechanic undid one of the control arm bolts so that he could rotate the hub to get at the axle.

Alternativly, you can remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the lower ball joint. Pull it loose. Then you can usually pull the spindle out far enough to get the axle out.
This way you dont have to worry about your allignment.

As regards the axle nut.
Before I had acsess to an impact wrench. I once used a socket, a pipe wrench, and mid pipe(out of a legacy) for a cheater