legacycentral bbs

well today I'm officially bummed out..
I'm doing a teardown of my EJ22T right now in preparation of a swap into my rod knocking 98 2.5RS.. everything was going as planned, the teardown was going smoothly, heads off, new oil pump, water pump, all new seals, and all the parts have just arrived in the mail, so i decide while I've got the motor out, I may as well reseal the oil pan and replace that little oring at the corner of the pan.

Well as I'm cleaning the oil pan I notice this little 5mm washer in the bottom of the pan.. I'm like.. "ok, thats a little weird".. then I start to notice that on the baffle plate there is a bunch of little metal shavings, so now I'm getting really concerned.. cause as we all know metal in the oil pan is a REALLY bad thing to have (I'm a certified aircraft mechanic). So I grab my trusty LED flashlight to do an inspection of the rods and crank.

What I found;
- #1 rod lowest bolt and endcap are chewed up;
- bottom of #1 piston wrist pin skirt has a bunch of dents and fresh metal showing through oil stained piston;
- crank seems to have little circular groves in it, all the way around;
- at the front of the motor, right behind the front of the block there is a channel prolly for coolent, well that has chunks hanging off it;
- #1 piston oil squirter is missing;

I'm soo mad and sad it almost makes me want to cry or smash something up. The motor ran awesome while it was in the chassis, aside from the typical suby oil leaks out of every seal. So now I'm forced to separate the two halfs and find out if the damage is repairable, or if the motor is toast.

I hate when this type of Shiat happens, I'm soo bloody broke right now from buying all the parts to do the swap, and now I'm thinking I should just give up, I really don't know what to do.. god damn, I HATE THIS SHIT!!!

So if anyone has any idea's on next plan of events, then please let me know.

ok.. i just rechecked the block, and it looks like the crank might actually be still ok.. but, does anyone know if there is an aftermarket rod/piston combo that would work with this block and a DOHC head rs head...? something that isn't too badly expensive..

the oil squirters aren't for lubrication specifically - as far as I'm aware, they're more of a cooling effect - a side effect is lubricating the wrist pin.

loosing one (when I pulled the pan off my engine before dropping it in the car, one was in the pan) is not a critical thing - I left it out because they're a little hard to get to from what I can tell.

Now, if one falls out while the engine is turning, that can cause damage if it gets caught in the crank and rod or something like that, but generally they just fall right out.

Sorry to hear about your motor

Unfortunatey, this is an all too common occurance with the Ej22T's as well as the closed deck Ej20G's. Of the 4 I have torn apart, only one block did not have at least one oil squirter sitting in the oil pan when I dismantled it (That was my RS-RA). The first Ej22T I ever tore into have 3 of the 4 squirters out and one of them had obviously been nicked by the crank on it's way out.

It is a pretty common practice with some of the serious tuners to remove the squirters when doing a built Ej22T. In fact, when I discussed it with Cobb, Trey told me it was not optional. They do it as a matter of course on all Ej22T's they build. The purpose of the squirters is under piston cooling (which is something they took from Porsche, among other designs) but it has an undesireable side effect. All of the excessive oil spray in the cylinder actually increases friction thereby robbing power. Well, at least that's the way Trey describes it, so take it FWIW. Though, the one solid thing I will add is that the 22B did NOT have oil squirters, and if that car didn't need them, I don't see why we would need them either...

well I'm just wondering now if anyone would be willing to send me one of there taken out oil squirters.. I only need one.. unless someone out there happens to have the suby part number for them, so i could buy a new one.

call me a little weird or something, but, i think any extra cooling that a motor could get is a good thing.. even if it does rob a little bit of power, i'd still be safer if I have them..

what i found out from the machine shop is, the block is still good on the car, but i'm buying new rods and oversized pistons and i really want to get a new squirter, because all componunts inside the motor will be OEM and new....


and another quick question, but.. do you bore out the cylinder with both block halves together or apart (striped of coarse in both) the machine shop is a little confused as to what the procedure for a suby boxer is or if it makes a difference..

I've got one you can have. Shoot me a PM with your addy and I will just throw it in an envelope and mail it to you.

As for boring it, you do it with the block split...

cool thank you for your info, and pm coming..

I put Locktite on the threads of my squirters when I assembled my motor. All of them were still there. I hope the locktite keeps them in.