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BOV Question

Posted: Fri Aug 04, 2006 10:46 pm
by realfinn
So I am obsesed with the sound that my buddies honda makes. PSSSSST......during every shift. I have read a LOT of articles on here about BOVs and I am still wondering exactly what I should do to get the nice sound. I gather that there can be problems at idle if you use certain BOVs. But is there a BOV that will fit on my EJ22T that won't screw with the operation/driveability of the car but still make one hell of a loud PSSSSST sound? Not sure if it makes much of a difference in the choice of BOV but I plan to begin tuning the car a bit by next summer.

Posted: Sat Aug 05, 2006 1:27 am
by napphappy
The following only applies to ATMO vented BOV:

I have found that you need to have an adjustable one. This way you can adjust it so that its not open at an idle. However, you also need it to be stiff enough that it doesnt open with the vacuum you have when you decelerate in gear. This could be anywhere from 24-29 inHG. If it does open when decelerating the car will almost always die when you push in on the clutch to stop.
So if you adjust it so it doesnt open at 24-29inHG, it will be harder to open between shifts. So below (X)psi of boost it may not open at all. And the boost will be forced to go backwards through the turbo, which will probably decrease its life-span.
You also need to make sure your BOV doesnt leak vacuum.

Posted: Sat Aug 05, 2006 1:58 am
by bmxkelowna
napphappy wrote:The following only applies to ATMO vented BOV:

I have found that you need to have an adjustable one. This way you can adjust it so that its not open at an idle. However, you also need it to be stiff enough that it doesnt open with the vacuum you have when you decelerate in gear. This could be anywhere from 24-29 inHG. If it does open when decelerating the car will almost always die when you push in on the clutch to stop.
So if you adjust it so it doesnt open at 24-29inHG, it will be harder to open between shifts. So below (X)psi of boost it may not open at all. And the boost will be forced to go backwards through the turbo, which will probably decrease its life-span.
You also need to make sure your BOV doesnt leak vacuum.
aka, keep the stock one or buy a honda :lol:

Posted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 5:23 pm
by Imprezive
I believe the HKS SSQV would be a good choice to dodge that pesky opening-under-vacuum problem since it works a bit different from a normal valve.

Posted: Mon Aug 07, 2006 5:48 am
by Arorally
I have HKS SSQV, it doesn't leak on vacum and the PSSSSST sound is very loud. I love it so far.

Arek

http://www.pbase.com/arorally/image/64110982

Posted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 2:04 am
by Imprezive
I think the HKS SSQV is a good choice, although it makes a whistle sort of noise, which to me owuld get annoying quick.

Posted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 2:57 pm
by free5ty1e
The whistle does get old quick... but that's the only complaint. I preferred the sound of the GReddy Type S BOV.

Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 12:39 pm
by realfinn
Sorry its been so long since I posted. Been out of town.

So some think the HKS makes an annoying sound. So has anyone tried the Greddy Type S BOV to see if it leaks?

Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 2:59 pm
by free5ty1e
The GReddy Type S leaks unless adjusted perfectly, or I believe has one of it's references teed into the turbo compressor / wastegate set of lines. Not sure, I never got around to trying that.

The HKS SSQV has no adjustments and just works. Very nice piece of engineering. Just wish the whistle was removable.

Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 3:24 pm
by realfinn
Ok, so I looked at some of the GReddy Type S and HKS SSQV on Ebay. A lot of the sellers list specific cars with the auction (nissan Z, civic...yada yada) but they are both universal. They are listing only to get buyers in specific markets in other words. Any and all of the HKS SSQV or Greddy Type S BOVs are the same right? So I could buy any one of them?

Posted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 3:45 pm
by free5ty1e
Yes, they're all the same -- but you may be purchasing one on a pipe or other configuration that may not directly work in your application. When I bought mine new, it came with a fitting that I had welded onto some exhaust piping (to match my IC pipes) and then it was ready to go. So worst case, you may need to spring for a new fitting if you need it on a different pipe.

Posted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 7:20 pm
by realfinn
Sweet thanks a lot guys!

Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2007 6:44 pm
by lcascio313g
just so you guys know i have a HKS on my eclipse and what everyone is saying about not leaking is true, it really is a great bov..the whistle is awesome to me i love it but you can take out the little silver insert at the tip and it will just sound like a regular bov...just get a small hex key and take out the screws in the front, the whole cover will come off and you can leave it off if you want its just for show and to hold the whistle tip, but just remove the silver tip and replace the cover and there ya go!

hope this was of some help

Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2007 5:54 pm
by FuJi K
lcascio313g wrote:just so you guys know i have a HKS on my eclipse and what everyone is saying about not leaking is true, it really is a great bov..the whistle is awesome to me i love it but you can take out the little silver insert at the tip and it will just sound like a regular bov...just get a small hex key and take out the screws in the front, the whole cover will come off and you can leave it off if you want its just for show and to hold the whistle tip, but just remove the silver tip and replace the cover and there ya go!

hope this was of some help
Great advice!

I have a WRX TMIC with my EJ22T swap (in my Impreza) and I ran the Perrin BOV. It popped out 2 times and so I had it welded so it wouldn't pop out anymore. Yes, the only thing is that it doesn't VENT if you lift off the gas a little, so then the turbo does its WRC sound....that flutter sound. I'm looking at running the HKS later, just hoping that it'll let out enough air running the GT3076R.

Posted: Thu Jul 19, 2007 7:28 pm
by lcascio313g
yeah im sure the HKS will be able to let out the air from a huge turbo like that it has 2 valves a small one opens for low boost then a bigger ones will open too if it needs to...

and this WRC sound you are all talking about is called compressor surge, its when there is no BOV or a broken/unadjusted one, the air that should be vented out has nowhere to go when the throtle plate is closed so it instead goes back into the turbo and since the turbines are pushing out the air coming in makes a fluttering sound as it gets pushed out of the intake...if you have a cone filter on your car and this happens it is much louder and kindof sounds like a blow off valve its nice..but very bad for the life of the turbo so beware if your car is making this noise you might want to get it fixed!