legacycentral bbs

ALways wanted to get this problem sorted out. Now when i floor it in rain the car moves a little but the front wheels spin for a pretty long time before the rear wheels kick in. Why is this? Should i reset the TCU? Tranny oil change? The solenoid and clutch packs in the rear a brand new. Any ideas? Thanks guys.

I'd try changing the trans fluid. I'd also try putting the gear selector in the 1 or 2 position and see if that changes anything.

You know what, in gears 1 and 2 there is defininitly less slippage, well its like 1milsecond then the rear kicks in 50/50 in 1st gear, and in D ONLY some times, some times, it wants to kick in, but i went up to 6000RPMS on a wet road taking off, not good, when u own a car with AWD. Think i should reset the TCU? subaru said 24hours to reset to factory.so pull the fuse box inside the car, on the fuse that says AT unit, and i cant remember something else unit, is that the ECU and TCU fuse? I pulled it but the car started, does it need to be pulled for longer? And any thing i should do after that?

You can try resetting the TCU.

Fuse 14 is the EGI/TCU backup power supply.

The car will still start. That fuse cuts the backup supply power. With the car off, and that fuse out, the ECU & TCU will not have any power supplied to it.

OK, pulled the fuse for like 1 1/2 hour and i turned on the car, backed it onto the driveway, let it idle in park, until it warmed up, once 100percent warmed up, i turned it off for 5mins, then i turned it back on, went around the block a few times going slow, then came back, put it in park, let it sit for 5 mins, then i restarted and drove quickly, and floored it, and NO wheel slippage, but the REAR thats right the REAR wheel squelled, and i floored it on sandy road, and all 4 wheels were spinning, and 0 binding, and when the 4 wd kickign in i could NOT notice it , as before it was a bump then the rear wheels pushed. And the engine, it runs WAY quciker ,and smoother, and hopefully more fuel efficient, amazing what reseting a ECU and TCU can do.

Sounds as if I need to do the reset dance with mine. Aside from reverse not working, the rear lockup takes a long time to happen and when it is cold the 2-3 shift is.... mmmm ponderous... between releasing 2 and fully engaging 3. Also, I noticed this morning (~45F ambient) that after getting on the freeway that it was a good 15 minutes of total run time prior to converter lockup. makes me wonder if the trans temp sensor is getting slow/old also..... I will send the TCU through the test sequence this weekend to see what it thinks is going on before I remove the transmission to repair the reverse clutch pack.

head2wind: you dont have to remove the transmission to rebuild the rear clutch packs. all you have to do is drain the ATF pan, remove the center driveshaft, possibly the exhaust section, and then unbolt the rear section of the tranny. Dont forget to unplug the electrical connector before you drop out the rear section to rebuild the clutch packs. When you put it back together, use a new gasket for the rear section. Saves a lot of time to not remove the tranny for this procedure.

the reverse clutch pack is located behind the torque converter-front dif housing-pump housing.... first pack that you can get to, right under the 2-4 band drum.... It does require removing the aft housing to take the nut off of the jack shaft that feeds power back forward to the front diff... I suppose I could do it in car but I would have to move the engine far enough forward to get the bell housing off. I think it would be easier to drop the transmission and not have to work on it while standing on my head.

got it........you said reverse clutch pack.......okay yeah you do have to remove it for that one.