legacycentral bbs

I think i found the problem with why my car feels so ruff on takeoff, but im not sure, i see a bad cv boot on the front left side, and oil is all over the place, it dosent click(click enough that i hear it) but when u take off not WOT but half throttle or 1/4 it pulls a little to the left the steering, think it is tied with this? and mind you i have no clue how long i drove like this, and i drove with torque bind for 12,000km(2 years) and mainly used in city. like if i let the steering go when i take off, no crack noise from dash(let the steering pull) but when i hold it straight(not seriously pulling,but does turn a bit) it sounds like the car is having a tough time taking off. Just wondering whenever i take off(1/2 throttle) the rpm's jump to 2k easily,then the engine struggles? and when it jumps to 2k rpm's the car is moving, but then it struggles, and u can feel some vibration in the cabin, but if i turn to the left its very smooth, and takes off effortless. GRR, hopefully its just a bad CV causing this, does it need to just click if its bad? Thanks guys.

Yes, a bad CV can definately cause the car to pull and it can be exgerrated under hard throttle conditions.

skid542 wrote:Yes, a bad CV can definately cause the car to pull and it can be exgerrated under hard throttle conditions.

ok, thats great to hear, so i guess ill stop by a junkyard and get a axle from a FWD car? are those ones better? do they fit without any issues? The fwd are really easy to find in a junkyard by the way. And a haynes manual to help me out

I know a FWD 5sp shaft will work in place of an AWD 5sp shaft. I'm not sure about the Auto's but I'd be inclined to say that won't be an issue either, I just simply don't keep up with the auto stuff. As far as better or worse, they are thicker and should be a little more robust and I'd personally be leary of a junkyard shaft and a new one can be had for 80-90 with a lifetime warrenty, just my humble opinion.

skid542 wrote:I know a FWD 5sp shaft will work in place of an AWD 5sp shaft. I'm not sure about the Auto's but I'd be inclined to say that won't be an issue either, I just simply don't keep up with the auto stuff. As far as better or worse, they are thicker and should be a little more robust and I'd personally be leary of a junkyard shaft and a new one can be had for 80-90 with a lifetime warrenty, just my humble opinion.

actually your right, why risk it with a junkyard cv right? well i guess the AWD shaft is still good right? and subaru suggested a oem cv instead of remanufactured, because there usally crap, what do think?

Unless you're pushing serious power there's no reason the AWD shaft won't be perfectly adequate. I know my mechanic gets his half shafts from NAPA and they come with a lifetime warrenty, that I have had to use once. But with the exception of that one I've never had any problems with the ones he gets though I don't for certain if they are aftermarket, remans, or OEM. I dislike doing CV's and hence just let him do it as he cuts me a deal on the alignment too. But if the OEM is in your price range, yeah I'd go with it.

Its a stock NA legacy. Ill get a quote, how much did ur CV's cost u? Ill convert to CAN

Auto & MT axles are the same just as an FYI.

So legacy do you suggest i get the FWD axles?

It really doesn't matter. If you can easily get a hold of FWD axles for the same price, I don't think you can hurt anything by running the larger axles.