legacycentral bbs

Hey I just pulled my EJ22t from my 92 Legacy 5MT. Anyways, once I pulled the timing covers I noticed tiny metal shavings almost a powder. I pulled all the pulley’s off the front and found about a 1/16th of play in the crank, which was making the geared pulley on the crank rub on the oil pump. Thus the metal dust.

Anyways, to my point- I'm wondering if a WRX engine long block will bolt right in. Will my current manifold and wiring fit? Motor mount line up? Exhaust? Is there a specific year of WRX to use? I’m also open to any other ideas if anyone has something cool that has worked well. Thanks for this awesome site.

Most 5 speed EJ22T's I have seen have crank play, because of the clutch design...Mine has more than your motor and it still runs fine. Honestly, I would rebuild your 2.2, because the WRX 2 liter is really not a good motor. Now, the WRX heads on your 2.2 would be a pretty neat combo

you can pick up a brand new, no miles, 2.2t crank for about $140 shipped from crawford performance.

How difficult is the rebuild to do? Will I only need the Crank? Yeah I like the sound of the WRX heads on this block, know where a guy could get a set? Maybe a trade for my heads? Which Gasket set do you use there? Are the WRX heads a match for the decked block? Sorry so many questions but thanks for all the help.

My 22T crank I can pull forward when I had the engine out. I can put the crank pulley on, and pull on it and it'll move forward. There's no play moving up and down, but moving forward and backwards on the block.... I think it's normal??? I'll be rebuilding one of my 22T's that's out sitting on the garage floor (the other is in the car).

You should have a tad bit of movement, but it shouldn't move enough to allow the crank gear to rub on the oil pump.

I don't know the specs on the shaft end play, but if you need it, I can probably find it.

I have pulled off a at least 500 Main pulleys on Subies and have never found any free play in the crank. That leads me to believe that free play isn't normal? Especially now that I need a new oil pump because the seal lip is marred.

Anyways, I've never re-built the short block before so I was wondering if someone had any tips in mind? I would be most grateful for any Ideas, comments, and help. Thanks again

Kelly (Rallitektech) had excessive crank play. When he cracked it open, it was the center bearing that was worn to shit and the journal was toast.

He went ahead and replaced the bearings and built it back up with that bit of slop. While he DIDNT want to do this, it was the only thing he could do short of getting a different block.

However, the car runs fine.

Hey I wanna know where I can find a kit to re-build this shortblock but I can't find anything I went to crawford but couldn't navigate my way to the crank. Anyone know? Thanks

crawford does not have the cranks listed on their website..... you have to call them to get one. get new rod bearings and main bearings too (cosworth, OEM, etc). what kind of power are you looking for? now would be the time to do forged goodies

While removing my 92 SS broken crank pulley/woodruff key/ timing gear I noticed about 1mm [give or take] of endplay. Car runs fine. Has a little valve tick but thats it. Tiny knock on cold starts, but so does my 97 GT.
I'm sure after 220k miles I could use some fresh bearings though...

Okay so I cracked the block and found the #3 bearing was shot. Do you guys think with a replacement the play will go away?

third from the left, is different and found it all chewed up


Also is this scoring on the block normal where the crank spins?

yeah it's somewhat normal.

here's some pics of my block
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... /ej22t/05/

these guys sell most everything you will need including cranks pistons ect. Never bought anything from them but herd good things.
http://www.importperformanceparts.net/