legacycentral bbs

My 1992 Legacy L 5MT has recently taken the punishment of me teaching my brother and my girlfriend to drive manual.

A few times my brother, as anyone might, started moving the car with the handbrake on for a few seconds before noticing it. This didn't concern me, but recently my girlfriend drove the car about four miles with the handbrake well on. As you may imagine a horrid smell came from the back of the car for a few days.

I'm not sure what to do next, should I just have my mechanic inspect it (I am after all just beginning to learn to work on my car)? The handbrake can still hold my car on the moderate incline of my driveway but the handbrake travel is much farther now (and of course I also leave the car in gear). The brakes seem to work okay right now, but it's hard to tell because I engine brake for over 85% of all deceleration, I scarcely use my brakes at all (in fact I noticed a few rust dots on the front rotors).

So basically I'd like to know what potential problems could come from this and whether or not paying for a brake inspection is worth the money.

do these self-adjust to wear?

'Hell if I know, would wear be the only thing I'd have to worry about?

Even with the burning of the pads, it takes a lot of wear to get to the point of replacement.
If they're still within tolerance (measure with a set of calipers or micrometer), they shouldn't need much more than just adjustment. The handbrake works through its own cable though if I'm not mistaken. That would need to be adjusted by you or your mechanic.
But if the rotors were too hot, then cooled too quickly (driving through a puddle for example), they could warp. You would then have them "turned" provided there's enough material on the rotor.
Fortunately, most of your braking power is in the front anyway.
If you're too worried about it, and aren't sure how to measure the thickness and what it should be, go ahead and have them checked, Whoever checks it should be able to tell you exactly how far out of tolerance if they need replacement. I'd ask them.
Teaching someone to drive a manual is always a lot of fun.
I used a 1980 Accord the last time I taught someone.

uhhh wait. You dont have rear disc brakes????

isotopeman, I do recall seeing a diagram in the manual showing the the handbrake did have its own line. I know the sound and feel of warped rotors and I have heard or felt no such thing in this car, thankfully. I think I will have my mechanic check it out if his quote pleases me.

Thank you.


Just checked on that, Imprezive, (I wasn't sure myself) I do in fact have rear disc brakes.

the hand brake uses a different set of pads than the normal brakes. There's a drum inside the rotor on the rear wheels with drum brakes inside. You didn't wear out your brakes and in normal operation the ebrake never gets worn at all. I believe there's an adjustment to bring the lever back to spec, but i dont know the details.

Put your fears to rest, no real harm is done.

A drum-rotor hybrid of sorts? Fascinating--and think you, this is most relieving. I do know of the handbrake adjustment, I tried to do it once but it's not worth the trouble, it's not like the handbrake lever is hitting the top of its housing or anything, it just travels farther. Maybe I'll adjust it when I have time in better weather.

Thanks again. ^_^

you think that is bad? my mom (when i was young) drove with the hand brake on for over 40km, and then later realized we had it on, i pulled it and forgot , so we smell something, and my mom says something is wrong the trouble light is on! ERIC what did u do!!!! what!!!! look around inside the car then see the handbrake then light turned off car rolled 1000000x better and brakes smell was awful, and dad yelled at me when i got phone he had to replace the rear emerg brake pads, and reset something(subaru fixed it, happened long time ago soo.......)

There is a plug on the rear dust plate that allows access to the star nut used to adjust the e-brake pads outward or inward.

It is noticeable which way tightens, and which way loosens by feeling the tension on the nut when you turn it.

Adjustment is easy. Car in neutral, e-brake off, whole car in the air. Use a LONG screwdriver and take out the plug. Using the screwdriver, tighten the star nut one click. Turn that rear wheel. Continue to click until there is noticeable resistance to turning. Leave that wheel there, maybe even go one click further. Repeat for the other side. Reinsert plugs, and away you go.

Since it was driven with the handbrake up, it might be smart to remove the rear wheels, brake calipers and rotors and blow out any dust or debris in the e-brake drum. Spray it with brake Kleen, and inspect the e-brake pads. There is a mark for minimum thickness. Just look at them. If you see where metal on metal was poking around, replace the pads. They are cheap

Also, when replacing the rotors with brand new ones, you will likely need to adjust your e-brake.

Two brake systems on the back!
That's just much cooler than anything I've owned before. As soon as I get home to my car, I'm going to have to check this out.
Thanks for the (correct) info.