legacycentral bbs

Ok, here's the deal. I decided to swap my EJ22T into my wagon last weekend (New Year's!) and cannot figure out this last little bug. I get wicked fuel cut BEFORE any boost at all. I have my boost guage hooked up and it cuts out at the slightest touch of the throttle, before hitting 0 on the boost guage. I tried clearing my codes, but they won't go away. While doing the "driving with both connectors plugged in" method, I got codes 45 and 52. I don't have a clue about the Parking switch, and my pressure exchange solenoid valve clicks when given 12v and ground, so I know that's good. Everything worked fine when removed from the other car New Year's Eve. I don't know what I need to do next. Please help!

Also, I never labeled my injectors when I swapped intake harnesses, so I may have those backwards on the passenger side, but it idles fine and drives fine, it just has a very sudden "CUT"! Can someone let me know what color wires are on the injectors?

Check your pressure exchange solenoid...I once had my car do the same thing and I just had to wiggle the connector on it

+1 on the pressure exchange solenoid. Mine would cut at any positive pressure. The exchange solenoid would click like crazy while it was happening. I had an extra laying in the garage...so its all better now!

I'd also check your wiring, because you shouldn't have messed with anything to do with the parking switch on the engine swap unless a wire got tugged on, or insulation stripped.

I've checked everything I can think of. I've wiggled every connector, checked the valve by giving it power (how else can I check it?), the wire to the valve has power. What else? I looked over the wires at the ecu (over and over again ) and can't see anything with either the parking switch or pressure solenoid. What kind of signal should be coming from the solenoid? I guess I don't completely understand how that all works?

OK, here's the rundown of my wiring.

Wastegate:
Yellow/Red- Ign
Black/White- pin 47.3

MAP:
Black- pin 48.4
Red- Ground
White- Ign

Pressure Sensor:
Yellow/Red- Ign
Green/Yellow- pin 47.20

All 3 Ign run off an added relay that switches on from the red wire of the MAF. MAP ground and the added relay ground are tied together and grounded at the strut tower. The relay switches the power on with Ign and shuts off several seconds after shutdown. Am I missing anything? Is this right?

The only questionable item with the way you listed your wires is the MAP wires (you have listed as ignition and ground) your ECU has pins for all three wires. I'm just wondering if the power supply is truly supposed to be 12V (it may be - you can check your ECU output). Anyway I would rather run my MAP purely from the ECU because (and I haven't had an ECU apart yet - Vikash would know) there may be some filtration that occurs in the ECU to subside any voltage irregularities. Also there may be voltage regulation that occurs that keeps the MAP at one voltage level instead of 14V when your car is running no accesories and lower voltages when your running everything electrical (I had my 3 yellow top array drop to 11V with all of my amps running - YIKES!). Although I don't necissarily think that this is your problem. But I digress.

As for the Pressure Exchange solenoid (which is what I'm still pointing a finger at) here is a link from Josh's site (Josh I still owe you a beer for all this info):

Check Pressure Sensor and Pressure Exchange solenoid:

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... sensor.jpg

Its probably about the best check you can do aside from just getting a new one and throwing it in.

When I did my EJ22T install I had to buy all three of the strut tower components. Blackbart gave me a great deal on all of them. If yours is bad I would check with him.

Might want to check your hose lines as well. I'm not sure what the effect would be if you got the pressure exchange solenoid hoses mixed up. Here is the Vacuum diagram (again I think this was from one of Josh's posts and drawn by Vikash).

http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/vacu ... vacuum.png

Might sound stupid but your not running a aftermarket boost controller of any kind are you? That could make a big difference.

You need to run all three wires for the MAP sensor back to the ECU. The ECU supplies a reference voltage to the MAP sensor, determines how much it changes to determine the manifold vacuum/pressure. If the voltage or even the ground is different then the reference voltage....things could get all screwy.

Thanks guys, but no go yet. I ran the extra wires for the MAP, and I now understand how that works. I am running a MBC directly off the compressor housing nipple to the wastegate, just like it was in my other car. The pressure exchange soledoid is hooked up to the intake manifold vacuum tee. I'm trying to get ahold of a buddy that has access to a Select Monitor to see if we can figure anything out.

Since I had my "power supply" and "signal" wires mixed up, could that have fried my MAP sensor? I'm getting 5.0v going to the power supply and have 4.96-5.02 coming from the signal wire when I rev it up. I can make it cut out just by revving it like I did. Shouldn't there be more range to that reading? I've checked over the hoses and everything is tight with no leaks to be found.

What is the voltage of the MAP sensor at idle? It should be around the 1v range with 19inHg of vacuum.

4.96-5.02 is the only kind of range I have. It never drops below that and doesn't change relative to engine speed (vacuum).

Where are you measuring this voltage....at the ECU?

Either you have the wiring incorrect, or you fried the MAP sensor.

I would suggest taking the MAP sensor out and testing it per the link posted above.

Some one validate this.

But in installing the MBC you should basically use your lines that go to your boost control solenoid. Where you removed your line from the boost control solenoid. You either have to leave the electronics to the boost control solenoid plugged in and cap the open ends of the BCS off, or you can unhook the electronics to the BCS and run one of the big power resistors that are located on the back of the strut tower sensor module. I just wanted to check that this is installed correctly for ya.
Definitley check all that ^^^^ - It's been a long time since I played with my MBC. Things fade in this engineers mind like you wouldn't believe.

As for the voltages that you are sourcing at your MAP...that definitley doesn't sound right to me. I would do as suggested before and do the test on the MAP. I might have an extra sitting in my garage. If need be I could ship it to you to try. Don't hold your breath...its been a while since I looked in the old spare parts bin.