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11 crank angle sensor
12 starter switch Abnormal signal emitted
13 cam angle sensor No signal entered from cam angle sensor
22 Knock sensor Abnormal voltage produced
23 Air flow sensor Abnormal voltage input entered from air flow sensor
24 Air control valve Air control valve inoperative
44 Duty solenoid valve (Wastegate control)
45 Pressure sensor and pressure exchange solenoid valve Faulty sensor or pressure exchange solenoid valve inoperative Prevents abnormal supercharging pressure using "fuel cut" in relation to engine load
49 Air flow sensor Use of improper air flow sensor

so these are all the codes that i had after i resealed my valve covers.and replaced my radiator...... wow what a pain in the ass. i really havnt done anything to my car since last summer but there was no way in hell that all these codes come up after work like this. doug and i checked my maf which is a blow through. and it was not showing and voltage change durning accel of deccel, but it still ran. so we swapped the maf it ran better and idle awesome but still i was running rich as hell i was getting about 5 miles to the gallon (OUCH).

i tested each and every sensor, the knock sensor is known problem as all of you know but i replaced it last year. i tested that and even that was good.

the code 45 i could see it was possible that there was a problem just becuase i do have a HKS fuel cut defencer wired in. BUt last year it worked just fine and i had no problems with that at the track. FYI i have no EM

well obviously with these cars there will be some sort of corrosion on almost all wires in the engine bay. well i looked at my print out of all my codes and thought to myself what was differtent from last summer. last summer my battery was in my trunk, but i still had no problems. With my car sitting all winter and excess of corrosion formed on all my ground contacts in my trunk. (my trunk is kind of a scary place, due to water leakage) so i moved my battery back to my engine bay where it has almost no room.. I regrounded my battery cables and replaced every contact on ground and positive cables. and guess what all problems are gone.

i have had problems like this with other cars that i have owned but, it didnt seem to be a big deal on my car. lesson learned. dont try to diagnose anything without a good ground.

i will have new pics of the car this weekend, new hood new bumper, totally NA stock looking. with the exception of a FMIC in the middle of the bumper.

There have been topics posted like "ground wire mods" and the such. Basically, you run supplemental grounds to key locations, like fuse block, alternator, starter etc. to boost the not-so-effective grounds. These cars are getting old and copper does tend to corrode. Search for those posts and you might come up with even more ways to make it better.

Furthermore, I have gotten into the habit of using dielectric grease on every electrical contact I mess with. Sometimes, if there is any sign of corrosion, I'll try to cut back to good copper/throw on a new connector if possible. And solder is a must. Nothing says conductive like a mechanically solid connection. I wish they built cars like that to begin with.

And I feel for the swampy trunk. Mine leaks pretty bad too.

Richard wrote:
Furthermore, I have gotten into the habit of using dielectric grease on every electrical contact I mess with. Sometimes, if there is any sign of corrosion, I'll try to cut back to good copper/throw on a new connector if possible. And solder is a must. Nothing says conductive like a mechanically solid connection. I wish they built cars like that to begin with.

I like to wire brush ground connectors, mounting points, and hardware with a Dremel tool then coat with NO-OX-ID .

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