legacycentral bbs

I was wondering if anyone know how to hook up an electronic oil pressure gauge because the sending unit I got with my gauge is to large to fit under the alternator. So if anyone know a nice way to install one let me know....

There are two large oil galley plugs towards the back of the engine (on the top) - one on each case half. You will need a 14mm hex key or a bolt with the correct fitting head and some vise grips...

Danny

To get a true reading, you really need to tap into where the sensor is, or near the filter.

Once you start moving away from those points, you're going to lose pressure from take off points on the oil gallery.

A interesting tidbit of info:

It is confirmed that the oil pressure sending unit off the ER27 in the XT6 screws right into the spot for the warning light sensor on an EG33 from the SVX.

I'd be surprised if the hole in the block is different on an EJ22 than it is on the EG33, and I'm fairly sure an EA82 sending unit has the same threads as the ER27 one.

So, if you want, pick up an oil pressure sending unit off an EA82 or an ER27 in a junkyard and see if it screws in. I'd do that just to test and then buy a new one (they're not that expensive, like $50 IIRC), they do give sloppier readings as they get older.

You'd be on your own wiring it up and finding a gauge and all that that's compatible, but you've got a start with the sending unit.

I went with the sandwich adapter and got both oil pressure and temp.

I just checked, the EJ22 and EG33 have the same warning light sensor. So at the very least, the ER27 sending unit will work (which is part # 15031AA011 and lists for $46.72), as far as fitment goes.

I used brass pipe fittings to run both the factory switch and my Autometer sender, and was able to move them underneath the alternator, out of the way.

i just had a brass tail screwed into the block with a pice of rubber hose (oil resistant) about 100 ml lond and then had a tail with a female thread on the other end that the sender unit screws into. real easy and eworks well. u just have to earth the sender unit. Ive just got a hose clip holding it against the alt bracket.
can email pic if u want??

Use the hole on the top of the block. It's further toward the rear of the engine bay in line with the stock sending unit. Like someone said before, you'll need an allen key and vice grips. Just be sure to be carefull when threading it in. There is a metal ring you need to remove, I think. I did the job in the dark and didn't know about the ring. I cross threaded and had to use allmetal! Now I have an oil leak and am building a shortblock in expectation of it getting worse! I'm not to proud to admit it if it means someone else win't make the same mistake.

Legacy777 wrote:To get a true reading, you really need to tap into where the sensor is, or near the filter.

Once you start moving away from those points, you're going to lose pressure from take off points on the oil gallery.

I'd agree with Josh on this one. However the oil pressure should be pretty repeatable at the back of the block, right? It wouldn't be the exact oil pressure the oil pump was giving but you could use it as a reference I suppose.

turboleg wrote:

Legacy777 wrote:To get a true reading, you really need to tap into where the sensor is, or near the filter.

Once you start moving away from those points, you're going to lose pressure from take off points on the oil gallery.

I'd agree with Josh on this one. However the oil pressure should be pretty repeatable at the back of the block, right? It wouldn't be the exact oil pressure the oil pump was giving but you could use it as a reference I suppose.

I didnt know this to start, but if I cant fit the probe in the "proper" place, Im going to use the rear hole. I also think the purpose of the oil pressure gauge is really more for reference and to know that oil pressure is maintained.

Danny

I think you'd be OK to do it that way. But doing it from the front would tell you if you had a "good" oil pressure to start with. I would probably investigate doing what Nick said above. It might be better to try getting some fittings to make it fit up front (I think I'm reading that right). Adding a few elbos really doesn't increase the friction coefficient that much and the extra length probably wouldn't effect the reading much since liquid isn't compressable.