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Im not sure exactly how/when it happened, but there is a gouge in the deck of my EJ20G. The machine shop suggested decking the engine, so I did a test assemble to see how much room I have, but the pistons actually protrude slightly from the deck surface!! I dont think I can remove anything... pics of the gouge follow.




Note: the shit around the pistons is masking tape, to keep the piston true in the bore.

Anyone got any ideas other than finding another closed-deck EJ20G block?

did you see about getting it tig'd?

A few local shops who build performance engines advised me against it if Im trying to get a lot of power out of it, which I am. Apparently its pretty much impossible to prevent brittle spots from developing when it gets welded

Well, I dont know if you trust it or not, but you could try JB weld. Its good for fixing cylinder heads. I know guys who have accidentally gone through to water jackets and fixed the problem with the JB weld. Just an idea, dont shoot the messenger

I was thinking the same kind of thing. It's not like the headgasket has a crush-ring in those locations. I'd think some JBWeld and a smooth sanding would do just fine. I doubt that kind of scratch will harm the integrity of the engine very much. I mean, open-deck motors don't have ANY material in those places.

Let's wait for Matt Monson's reply though. He'll have a recommendation, I'm sure.

hmmm devcon?

since it is not that close to the cylinder it may not be as bad as it seems.

I am with the other guys here. I don't think it has compromised the important mating face where you are trying to seal the HG for the cylinder seal. I think the JB weld idea sounds like a good approach. If you are really worried about any risk to the cylinder seal, O-ring the deck...

Took it to the most reputable engine/fabrication shop in town today (LeJeune) and they said they wouldnt do it.

Basically, if they welded it, the cylinders would have to be rebored (Which I cant do) and the deck would have to be resurfaced (which I cant do)

And even if both those things were done, they said the welding process could weaken the block, and given my power goals, they said it was an unacceptable risk.

They agreed though, with what a lot of people are saying, that because the scratch doesnt enter the firing ring, a good application of JB weld, properly lapped, should do the trick.

the only thing that looks like it could pose a problem would be that the gouge does enter the water jacket.

206er wrote:the only thing that looks like it could pose a problem would be that the gouge does enter the water jacket.

You can solve that with the JB weld. Once that stuff is set, you can machine it.

its still a repair. I'm not discounting the fact that it will probably work at least for a little while, just saying that it's in a very highly stressed area of the engine.

I vote for the JB. Clean out the gouge well, and make shure there are no bubbles in it when you apply. A file and a block sand and she'll be ready to go. The cylander isn't compromised, and its not like its that deep.

My main concerns are:

The scratch allowing coolant to work its way under the head gasket, either towards the cylinder or towards the oil return

JB weld 'popping out' due to differing thermal expansion between the JB and the aluminum block..


Im starting to consider using the EJ22T shortblock with wiseco pistons I have, and saving the EJ20G internals for another build when I can get my hands on another block

Im trying to get an awful lot of power out of this engine.... Then again, if douggy can get 400WHP with his odd brass pins, then maybe Im fine. I still have a bit of time to decide.

The JBWeld probably isn't going to pop out. I've seen it used on exhaust manifolds.

I really think you'll be alright.

But, don't the RS-RA and the EJ22T have the same main journal widths? Why won't the entire rotating assembly fit into an EJ22T block? If the pistons you have will work in an EJ22T, just swap everything and you'll be set.

I'd consider getting the block o-ringed if your going to try and make a LOT of power, and get it and your heads, drilled for 14mm head-studs.

Steve,
Can you define "a lot" of power? I thought you were going with a vf-39, which in my book is incapable of "a lot" of power...

the VF34 is going into the impreza, the Legacy is getting an APS SR40 probably

Still define "a lot" of power? The SR40 isn't capable of what I'd call "a lot" of power, but my definition is different. I don't think you'll see more than 400whp out of the SR40. That's a good bit of power, but I don't think your little issue with the gouge will be a problem.

I think you'll be fine.

If you were looking for over 500whp, then it MIGHT be a problem, but even then, I doubt it.

How much pressure do the coolant passages really see? It can't be that much if you are running a .9-1.1 Bar cap on the radiator...

400whp is what Im aiming for, I'd consider that a lot for a 2.0L...

I guess theres really only one way to find out, and honestly, its not that much work to pull the shortblock and replace it with the other one if I do run into issues I suppose.

Splinter wrote:400whp is what Im aiming for, I'd consider that a lot for a 2.0L...

I guess theres really only one way to find out, and honestly, its not that much work to pull the shortblock and replace it with the other one if I do run into issues I suppose.

that is what i was thinking. the dmage is allready done. if the JB weld fixes it and works then you are golden. if it doesnt work and you have to replace the block all you will loose is time.

Splinter wrote:400whp is what Im aiming for, I'd consider that a lot for a 2.0L...

My uncle built a 600hp EJ20G with a restrictor...and he said it held up well...so I wouldn't consider your goal a lot of power

If it's in the budget, why not get another set of pistons made? Wiseco (and probably most other pistons mfgs) can make you a set to your specs. Have the block decked and be done with it. Chose your gasket size from Cometic and all is good. Gaskets are about $90 for the set and a complete set of pistons, rings, clips, and pins can be had for less than $500. Machining the deck of the block should run you about 125-225 depending on your shop.

On the other hand, if budget is an issue, I'd certainly do JB Weld LOL! No kidding. From the pic it looks like it's repairable with it, but that's your call.

I would JB weld it.

I have done some questionable shit over the years, but it always works. The only failures I ever suffer are the damn pistons. haha.

I JB welded it and had 2 thou taken off the surface... Im going to plasticene it before I put it in the car

I want to use these pistons, so yea