legacycentral bbs

hey,

I am in progress on my project car. I have twin 90 legacy LS sedans, (one auto, one 5mt) and I am currently working on picking up all the parts for the engine build/swap. I currently have the turbo, a block, and a lot of other little parts that don't matter much at the moment. would it be a good idea to get a set of EJ22T heads, or should I just pick up turbo cams and set up the plumbing myself for the oil and coolant for the turbo? I have equipment access, and a fair amount of build experience, so I'm not just a rookie looking to drill holes and guess on the coolant system, I'm just wondering if it would give me more performance gain to use the E head, since Ive seen people saying things about smaller valves on the T heads.

let me know what you think, or any ideas if you have any. (I will try to get progress pictures up eventually, but my camera is dead right now, so it will have to wait)

I would get the Turbo heads. They seem to be common enough and most seem to sell for a good price. To me, paying a bit for heads is worth not having to do machine work that isn't neccisary.

PhyrraM wrote:I would get the Turbo heads. They seem to be common enough and most seem to sell for a good price. To me, paying a bit for heads is worth not having to do machine work that isn't neccisary.

yeah, I guess I see that, but are you saying it IS possible to machine the E heads to accept the plumbing for the turbo? (and stick them on the T block?)

No, I'm not SURE about the 22e heads. Others here will know for sure if they can be machined to 22t specs.

I am sure about DOHC phase 1 heads. But that involves a new manifold. Those just imvolve drilling a tappin a few holes.

PM me if you decide to persue a set of 22t heads.

You dont have to tap the heads at all if you dont really want to - there is an oil galley on the top/back/left of the block where you can source oil.

Then you can run a line back to the pan (which you will drill/tap) for the return.

If you need coolant as well, you can tap into the heater core hoses.

So, you can really run any heads you want.

My car was running turboed this way with ej22e heads, and it WILL run this way for my next motor which will have ej25 dohc heads.

There are benefits and disadvantages to both the ej22t and the ej22e heads. The valves on the ej22e heads are reportedly only 1/16 larger.... Not going to make a big difference...

The difference is going to be in the cams and someone else will have to answer as to what exactly the differences between the cams are, because I am not sure...

Danny

Go get yourself a junker turbo legacy front clip + ECU for 500 bucks. Then you dont have to seach ebay every day for the cosmic washer for the conversion. I think it would save you bucket loads of time.

Or you have to do this:



or you can grab both coolant and oil from elsewhere as mentioned before.

Which is a PITA.

BB

I don't need that or the ECU. I am building a megasquirt for it, and building and tuning everything from scratch...

thanks for the pics...

what is this "cosmic washer" you speak of?

BB wrote:Go get yourself a junker turbo legacy front clip + ECU for 500 bucks. Then you dont have to seach ebay every day for the cosmic washer for the conversion. I think it would save you bucket loads of time.

BB

please tell me where can I find one of these?

The cosmic washer or junker or turbo legacy's?

I know of three that are here in Halifax, NS that are in rough shape.

One silver '94 wagon a stones throw from my house,
A '94 white SS behind somebody's shed 10km from home
A black?? '93 wagon in the kins' junkyard.
A red '94 wagon in the paper for 600 bucks.

The cosmic washer is a joke for those who dont get it... you know, the one part you just cant seem to be able find at 3am when you need your car to drive to work monday morning...

BB

ahh, kind of like all those parts made of "unobtainium" the metal that is so rare parts made from it cost more than I paid for both of my legacies combined.

BB wrote:Or you have to do this:

For those brass fittings, which is oil and which is coolant?

I'm assuming that the open, unplugged threaded port on the top of the head is the oil feed and the brass fitting pointing straight up is the oil return.

I've got a set of 22E heads and need to modify them for oil feed and return (sourcing coolant off of the heater hoses).

Oil return has to be as low as possible, as I have seen in most (aftermarket) turbo cars it is in the side of the oil pan, as mentioned above...
the line has to be absolutely MINIMAL resistance, because the turbo can't handle pressure on the oil seals inside... or something like that... my guess is, you're seeing only coolant from those brass fittings, and the oil return is that one on the lowest part of the head

Oil feed top top empty threaded hole to accept a banjo, Coolant in center, and Oil return on the bottom.

Any body run a restrictor on oil feed lines? I notice the stock oil feed has some restrictor in it... Please advise!

BB

Ok, anyone know where can I find banjo bolts to fit the block, and where can I find custom or "universal" oil feed line for the turbo? I have the stock line from the VF11, but I don't believe it is long enough to hit that spot on the block if I use that hole as my oil feed...

Talk to Deadbolt. They can probably supply both items.

If its the same threads as a 22T oil feed, you can use a M12x1.25 adapter to a -4. www.anplumbing.com has them.

93forestpearl wrote:If its the same threads as a 22T oil feed, you can use a M12x1.25 adapter to a -4. www.anplumbing.com has them.

In dan's pic, he's running the stock coolant/oil feed unit. I believe if you pop that baby off the head, there's a restrictor in the oil feed.

Since my oil feed is straight off the cam oil galley on the DOHC head, I should have a restrictor correct? Or can I get away without one?

Should I post the restrictor question in the turbo section of the bbs?

BB

actually, I have seen a few questions about the restriction, and I have yet to see an answer as to whether they are a crucial piece or if its just a little bit of that sometimes beneficial sometimes detrimental "safety" equipment... like my malfunctioning abs unit... so if anyone has an answer please put it here, or link us to where the answer might be if someone posted it elsewhere.

Im not 100% on this, but I believe a restricter is important to keep oil from blowing out the seals on the turbo. The seals can only take x amount of pressure and an open line is apparently too much....

but isn't that why the return line is multiple times the size of the inlet?

Dont quote me on this, but I would guess that the large return is just there to keep away a buildup of oil. You still dont want a super high pressure spray going at the seals...

Hopefully someone else will confirm or toss this out...

I'd think it would serve to retain pressure in the cam oil galley.
But that is yet another (not very) educated guess.